Matt T

You either need to punch through all the way with the iron, consistently punch straight through with the awl, or use the inverse irons.

Good work on the gussets. One thing I just remembered, which might make it easier for you, is that you could skive along the edges where they go together, to make it more workable. This makes a lot more sense if you have a skiving machine of course.

I bought some thread from RoyalWood after reading this thread, and figured I'd give it a try; it's only money, right? Turns out it is not a real competitor to Fil Au Chinois. From a quick test, I found it to be less consistent in width and not dyed as well. It also has a waxier feel, and seems to be waxed with parafin; not beeswax like Fil Au Chinois. Here is my test: RoyalWood is pink.

Good idea. Thanks!

Yeah, it will show on outside curves unless you bind the edge.

I've been buying ancient bronze buckles from ebay, and using them for dog collars. They are expensive, but sure are unique! The problem I am finding is that they are often dirty and oxidized, and the rustoleum just flakes off in certain areas. Does anyone here know of a good way to clean the grime off of these things before painting?

Accidentally double posted.. can a mod remove this

Definitely weaker, but it doesn't matter most of the time, unless they are a strong puller.

David, I've been having the same problems with the backside of the stitching. I recently discovered that there are pricking irons that are inversed, with the teeth going a different direction. With this, you can prick on the back side of thicker leather to match up with the other side. I have some on order from fineleatherworking.com

Yeah, sand and glue on the very edge of the joint, and put some muscle into it.

For that price range, I suggest YKK zippers.

Interesting, I like the advertisements in those. Snake oil for asthma

Latigo is more durable for a dog collar, but it can't be tooled. So, you have to think about what is more important for your product. It takes more time to properly sew around the buckles, keeps, and d-rings on the collars, so most producers will pop a few rivets on there, call it a day, and pump out more product. You also need to be aware when you sew a strap, that if you sew across the width, you are creating perforations which will weaken the strap. This is especially bad for a dog collar which is pulled. Think about what happens when you pull on a perforated page of paper vs one that isn't.

Yes, in my experience the chrome tan is more resistant to teeth marks from the machine.

http://www.maverickleathercompany.com/horween/horween-seconds/

I have the 2/3oz kip from waterhouse; it's not stiff. Not garment, but not stiff

Goat skin works great

I saw the tandy camo in the store the other day. It looks to be printed on split leather, not top grain...

There is some for sale on ebay, but I don't know if they offer anything that fine leatheworking doesn't. Price is similar.

John, have you considered the idea of selling your leftovers or seconds on tannery row, similar to what Maverick leather does? You can use a platform like shopify.com, without needing to work with a design company or developers. Take pictures of what you have, post to your store, sell, and fulfill, all with a few clicks. I know this is probably not a big part of your business, but it would be a lot more effecient and profitable than the way things are being done at the moment.

Here you go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221399118007 I bought this, and it's some sturdy stuff!

Those weights would work fine for a wallet too. I don't think it matters what cut you get for something like a wallet.

Well, I would say that if it isn't fun for you anymore, then maybe you should find something else that is. It takes a lot of practice and knowledge to perfect your techniques in order to end up with exactly what you want...

Thanks guys! One thing I need to consider in the future is that the handle causes the leather to flex. I reinforced it underneath with a thick vegtan strip connecting the handle rivets, but I think a metal strip would work better.

Whipped this out yesterday for my laptop. Used horween leather, and the inside is unfinished. I think the top flap seems a bit wide, even though it is the same width as the front, back. What do you guys think? http://imgur.com/a/b37C2