abn

Jake, some people (myself included) prefer the white glues, like Tandy's Leather Weld. Advantages: you don't have to coat both pieces of leather, no nasty smell, and it takes a while to dry so you can reposition if necessary. Overall, white glues are easier to use and more forgiving. However, if strength of the bond is the most important thing, I believe contact cement is the best option. One more thing... Regardless of the glue used, stitching the two pieces of leather together will always add a lot more strength. Good luck! -Alex

Best wishes for a speedy recovery! -Alex

Wow. In addition to a great tooling job, the dye job is fantastic. What did you use to achieve those colors? Also, terrific work on the stitching. It's not easy to get it looking that clean. Kudos! I really enjoyed checking out this wallet.

Sorry to be a late-comer to this thread, but I didn't want to miss my opportunity to give you kudos on these two wallets. Superb in every way. Extra points for making the interiors yourself!

Wow, that is some really nice, clean work. Congrats!

Welcome to Leatherworker.net. This is a great resource for anyone starting out in leatherwork. I know there are a couple of bootmakers here, and maybe some shoe folks, too. I can't imagine trying a project like that myself, as I often find making a regular old wallet a challenge! Maybe I'm thinking too much!

One helluva job for a prototype... No wonder your wife claimed it! I really like the design, and I'm sure the final version will turn out great. Wouldn't mind seeing some pictures of it when done, and for that matter -- do you have any pics of the original 40s-vintage bag? One final question, just because I'm curious ... When you do mock-up work like this, will you recover some of the materials cost in the final price of the bag? Keep up the good work! Best, -Alex

Wow, that's a beautiful seat all the way around. Great tooling, and I love the color.

CES, first of all, welcome to Leatherworker.net. We're glad you found us. Regarding your question, my personal preference is to leave the inside of the belt unfinished. If you're careful with your dyeing and your edge finishing, you can keep it nice-looking. I like the suede feel, plus there's no color to rub off on someone's pants. However, if you think it looks better to finish the inside, here's a recent thread where some options were discussed. I hope this information helps! http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21578

It's good to have you here, Doc.

Keep up the good work.

I love it. Nice job!

Yes, that's really great work. Congrats!

It's been a while since I used All-In-One, but I recall it was finicky. I think I used to put it on lightly with a damp paper towel, and removed it fairly quickly with a dry one. A second coat dissolves the first one, so it's best to get it right the first time. If this is your first try with All-In-One, just keep practicing. I'm a bit challenged when it comes to dyes and finishes, and it usually takes me some time to figure out the way to bring out the best in these products. Good luck!

That's some really nice work. Thanks for posting your pics, and I hope to see more soon!

SUPER job all the way around. Congrats!

For a holster of this many "firsts," it sure seems to be put together well. Congratulations!

Rob, the advice that King's X provides is right on the money. I've used Eco-Flo products since their introduction in mid-2007, and really like them. I find the colors to be truer than the Fiebing's stuff, with none of the traditional worries of streaking or rub-off. To condition and finish something dyed with Eco-Flo, use neatsfoot oil and Super Shene or Satin Shene. Other products, like TanKote and Lexol, will lift the color right off the leather. When using new combinations, I always test on scrap to make sure they work well together. Good luck!

I don't mean to keep piling onto this thread , but what Storm mentions reminds me of another mistake I made with this same belt. The fuzzy end is probably belly leather and will stretch... If you have a choice, make sure this end is the buckle end. Otherwise, you'll see -- as I did -- that your holes will deform (as will your tooling) as you wear your belt over time.

I'm with Storm... I've never heard of this, nor would I do it. Occasionally, I'll smooth out rough stamped impressions using the spoon of a modeling tool. But I wouldn't roll or compress the entire surface. Just let it dry and harden up. Good luck, -Alex

Hi, Joe: The best advice you've received so far is to check both sides of the leather when you're making an unlined belt in the future. I made the same mistake a while back, and ended up spending a lot of time skiving the surface to shave off the fuzz. But as Paul mentioned, the rough surface is likely to return over time even if you use gum tragacanth or some other surface treatment. You've received some good advice on remedies... Good luck, and be sure to post images of your work when you're finished. Best regards, -Alex

Ed, this is probably going to be no help at all, since I deal with superglue in very small quantities. However, I've found that superglue hardens and clogs when stored and used in plastic containers. I switched at some point to buying superglue in small metal squeeze tubes (like the tubes Barge cement comes in) and it lasts much longer. The tubes are very, very small though... Maybe two inches long. Again, probably no help, but something to consider, I guess. Good luck in your search!

Glad you found us, Phil. Welcome!

Maybe one of the "old-timers" here will correct me, but I believe the reason you avoid the doughnuts is because ClayB's dog licks the icing off the top. They're not supposed to glazed! And Heathen,

Todd, I'm not a holster maker, but I know a number of really talented ones hang out here, so please feel free to browse that forum and ask questions. Good luck with your first projects, -Alex