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Tim, I've used nylon thread exclusively for several years now. I agree with SmokinP's assessment... When tightened down, the nylon and wax seem to combine to make white thread look a little gray. As S.P. mentioned, using an overstitch wheel helps a lot, and the thread will loosen up a bit over time, restoring the true color. Can't comment of the behavior of white linen thread, as I've never used it... -Alex

I've never built a holster, so I don't have much to add other than it looks like you did a fine job for a first holster, Bruce, and I enjoyed reading K-Man's expert critique. Thanks for giving us all an education on holster construction. -Alex

Nice job, Tom. You've got a really unique look and color there. I'm sure your recipient will be very pleased! -Alex

Super job. What dyes and finish are you using on this one? Two thumbs up! -Alex

I personally prefer Eco-Flo, and not because of environmental reasons. I used spirit dyes for several years with frustrating results, with colors often turning out too dark or streaky. I also had to buff the heck out of each project before the final finish to avoid having the dye bleed through. And the strong fumes gave me headaches in my small workspace. Maybe Eco-Flo dyes aren't for everyone, but I certainly prefer their vibrant colors, easy application, and lack of smell. After mastering a bit of a learning curve, they produce reliable results and when properly finished, are fairly water resistant. Now, I'm not trying to convince anyone who's happy with spirit or oil dyes to switch, but I certainly do take issue with anyone who infers that Eco-Flo dyes are inferior. They're simply a different choice for folks who for whatever reason weren't happy with spirit dyes. -Alex

Eco-Flo dyes are just fine for items that will have infrequent exposure to moisture. For example, they're fine for a belt that might see a little rain, as long as it's sealed with a water resistant top finish, like Satin Shene. I think they're fine for a holster used at the range, too. However, if I was building something for the field that might see a downpour, I would go for a spirit dye and a really waterproof finish, like Montana Pitchblend. Different craftspeople have different methods, but to be honest, I never applied dye (even spirit dye) prior to wet molding. I always got all of my molding out of the way, and then applied the dye when the project was dry. To get the inside of a sheath or holster covered, I'd load up a dauber with dye and stuff it down as far as I could. Sure, a few spots were missed, but I doubt anyone is going to break out the Maglite to see how well you dyed the inside of your gear. As with any process, over time you'll figure out what supplies, techniques and methods work best for the projects you're building. You're wise to experiment with different types of dyes/finishes and ask questions to see how others are using them. -Alex

TSC, In my opinion, there's nothing wrong with the dyeing and finishing process you used, but a light application of neatsfoot oil would definitely help condition the leather. I'd do it after dyeing and before the final finish. And I wouldn't worry about conditioning the flesh side. However, it's entirely possible that you got a damaged piece of leather (one that was sunburned or old), and in that case, it can sometimes crack even if conditioned... To save yourself some heartache next time, you may want to cut off two or three inches of the strap before doing all your work and bending it to see if any cracking occurs. I'd be especially careful if you're using a precut strap, like the ones Tandy sells. -Alex

How about using a light coat of acrylic paint to achieve the green color? That way, you're not stripping any finish, etc.

There was lots of discussion on this topic back in mid-2007 when the ban took effect and Tandy responded with the Eco-Flo line of water-based dyes. Since then, not much has changed. Outside of California, you can still purchase the full line of Fiebings spirit dyes in any size bottle, even at Tandy. Fiebings has even come out with a line of low VOC spirit dyes, called LeatherColors, intended for CA customers. I think the Eco-Flo line has been a big success for Tandy, but I expect there will always be a place to buy spirit and oil dyes, since they are still preferred by a great number of craftsmen. If you like them, stick with 'em. -Alex

Applying a light coat of neatsfoot oil before your final finish also tends to even out and darken the Eco-Flo colors...

Dixie, welcome to the board. You've come to the right place to learn about building saddles -- we have a vibrant community of saddlemakers here who are willing to help out anyone with a question. Good to have you here! -Alex

I've found the leather has to be really thirsty and absorb a lot of dye to drop the blue tint and turn into a true black. I have some 4-5 oz. vegtan that absorbs it well, but some 2-3 oz. kip that doesn't. Using a dauber helps get a lot on the surface. I'm a big fan of the Eco-Flo line, but admittedly, Coal Black is about my least favorite color. The spirit dyes seem to work so much better in black.

Sounds like Tandy benefits from a group of competent and pleasant managers and staff. I'd like to recommend the Richmond, VA store -- Deb and Sharon are great.

I saw a Travel Channel show on Florence a while back, and it was mentioned as one of the leathercrafting hubs of Europe. Might be worth a little research... Enjoy your trip -- I'm envious!

You'll definitely ruin your nice, new sheath by applying water. Eco-Flo is a great dye, but excessive exposure to water will cause it to wash off.

Beautiful work. Nice combination of colors and textures -- both leather and thread. -Alex

Karl, beautiful job integrating that classic buckle. I'm sure your wife's delighted. -Alex

You should probably prepare yourself for a number of different opinions anytime you ask a question that starts with "who/what's the best..."

As you may already know, Knoxville is home to two nice leatherworking shops, Tandy and K.C. Leatherwerks. Both are located within about three miles of each other, and the bonus at K.C. is that they stock the Hidecrafter stamps we were talking about in another thread. Welcome to the board! Regards, -Alex

Sweet. I like the fact that you didn't cover the entire wallet with a design -- you placed a neat bit of artwork in the bottom right-hand corner with some decorative stitching that flows to the other side. Less is more, in this case.

I agree... Really nice job there. -Alex

These look absolutely professional grade to my eyes. Congratulations! I love the color -- how do you achieve that light oiled brown shade? Maybe through dip-dyeing? Great job, -Alex

I have a lot of the Hidecrafter tools, most of them marked "Craft Japan." They cost about the same as the Tandy Craftools, but the impressions are much crisper. If you're looking to get good stamps at a reasonable price, I'd recommend them. Good luck! -Alex

The red vinyl really sets it off. Sweet job. -Alex

Great craftsmanship. Two thumbs up! -Alex