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Everything posted by Northmount
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800 Pixels in the longest dimension is great for viewing on phones and computer screens. At that resolution you can post many photos in the same post. Yours are toooo small. Also best to post without zipping them. It is extra nuisance to open as have to save to disk instead of viewing as part of your post.
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IP address puts the location as possibly Bear Creek,
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Lift the presser foot and tension is bad
Northmount replied to palvim's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Make sure when you are turning that you have gone past the bottom dead centre and the needle has risen about a quarter inch to make sure the hook catches the top thread loop and doesn't drop it. That is when it skips a stitch. When you lift the presser foot, just lift is slightly while making your turn. Lifting it too far releases the top tension disks, thus you lose top tension. Usually, when you lose the top tension, it doesn't pull the bobbin thread up to the top, so maybe my answer is way off base! -
Moved your post to leather sewing machines. You'll get more help here.
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If you won't provide price and follow the posted rules, I will remove this post.
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Moved to leather sewing machines.
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Messy stitches on cobbler only when stitching to the right
Northmount replied to arich's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Patchers use the presser foot to advance the leather for each stitch. Smooth foot, no or little advance. Top feed, no bottom feed. -
Archery Arm Guard - Pattern & Instructions (*pdf File)
Northmount replied to Sherkhan1962's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
What link are you looking at? Very first post in this thread shows dead link removed and to click here to find the file we retrieved and uploaded here in this screen capture: Go to this post as was referenced in the screen shot picture above: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/45636-archery-arm-guard-pattern-instructions-pdf-file/?do=findComment&comment=547654 -
Moved your post to leather sewing machines. This is where the machine guys hang out. From what I can see, plus the age of your machine, that looks like it is a clutch, and would be on the end of a clutch motor. The motor runs at constant speed all the time it is turned on. As you press on the foot pedal, it engages the clutch. Takes a lot of practice to run the machine at low speed. It's more fussy that a clutch on a car/truck with a standard transmission. Others will be along to confirm or correct my comments.
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Pictures, shipping and price added for the OP. Located in Northern Wisconsin. No shipping, pick up only. Price $1700 US$
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Added photos to first post in this thread. File sizes reduced, 800 pixels wide, medium resolution.
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Moved to leather sewing machines
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If your file size is too large, you can't upload it here. Reduce the size to 800 pixels in the longest dimension. See this thread for some helps. Lots more info and file resizing apps are available on the web. Do a search and you can find them. FYI Marketplace rules are here.
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Some pictures might help with getting comments and suggestions.
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Moved to Marketplace > Items For Sale > Machinery -- Cutting/Leatherworking > New and Refurbished to Like New Please read the marketplace rules.
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- table
- new sk-4 bell skiver
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(and 1 more)
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You need to provide information in order to get help. Simple! No info, no help!
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Best affordable sewing machine for leather 5/8”- 3/4”
Northmount replied to lilbax's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines- 4 replies
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- thick leather
- fire shields
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(and 1 more)
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Moved to leather sewing machines
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This bearing was cleaned and spun by the shop maintenance man/machinist. Pronounced as good, no need to replace it. I had done vibration sampling and found it to be 'noisy'. Had the print out to show it. Took the bearing away from him and cut it with an angle grinder. This is what it looked like. I had run vibration tests on the machine because it was literally screaming at 5000 RPM. So don't trust that cleaning and spinning a bearing is an adequate measure of its health. Bearing on the opposite end of the shaft was the main culprit, but once you have the machine apart, replace the $10 bearing and save another 18 hours work in tear down and repair. Bearing in the 2nd photo was causing the shaft to jamb during attempted startup, so he put a pipe wrench on the shaft to loosen it up. A real no-no! Half deaf so he didn't notice the machine screaming. This was in a steam turbine lab in a technical school. I could hear it from out in the hallway with the door closed.
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Rudimentary stethoscope, works very well. Have used it in many cases, machinery in power and process plants, automotives, etc. Works so well I bought a stethoscope (mechanical, not medical) and have used it a few times. Screw driver is usually closer at hand so I often use it instead of going back to get the stethoscope. A stethoscope helped me find a cracked/broken wrist pin in a old style Dodge 318 V-8. Top side of the engine, noise was on front cylinder on right bank, on the bottom it was on the 3rd cylinder. Cracked wrist pin was on the 2nd cylinder directly between the two measurement locations. Replaced piston, wrist pin, rings, rod and gaskets, and was back on the road for about $80 in parts.
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But you get the same sound whether it is driving the machine or not, so that would appear to be a misleader. Check with the seller/manufacturer about the noise the motor makes. Exchange it for another, same model and see if it makes the same noise.
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I've tried a few different spray bottles for misting leather as I'm tooling it. Can't get a nice even spray, not atomizing well enough.
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You need to provide pictures and full information about the condition of your machine. See the marketplace rules and comply.
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@Hidden It sounds like electrical switching noise being amplified by the motor housing. Sort of like a stepper motor/actuator which are a type of servo. Some cordless drills sound similar, usually just not as loud.