catskin

I can't help wondering if the Cowboy on Ebay was there because it was faulty form the factory. Ebay is the place junk is disposed of. Very often. For someone who knows splitters it might be fixable.

Thank you.

I am looking for dies to cut leather conchos ( I think that's what they are called ) the small round pieces with scalloped edges that go on the laces on saddles. Any info. on where they could be bought or if you have used ones for sale I would like to hear.

I've been looking but as yet have not found any information on where I can buy small dies for cutting leather conchos like the ones used on saddles that the laces go through. If anyone knows where they can be gotten or has used ones for sale please let me know.

Chayne, You haven't answered my PM asking if you got the book I tried to send you. Did you get it ?

I replied to your other post, Singer 78-3 is flat bed.

I guess I was somewhat misunderstood. To me BEATING implies using insult and intimidation. I prefer respect on both sides. And it has not hurt me. It seems ALMOST every person on here complains that they can't get the money to buy the machines they want or claim they need. My problem is more like I buy more machines then I need just because I CAN. So using my system, as some might call it paying full price has made both profit and earned me respect.

Where on the first post does it say it is on Craigslist or any other junk site? I am referring to private sellers pricing things at what they feel they are worth. While you likely do not, I respect sellers right to price the things they have for at what they feel they are worth and I take them or not. Just as I feel I deserve that same respect.

BEAT the price down? Does that mean that EVERYTHING you sell is priced to have the price BEATEN down? Like if you price something at $100,00 you expect to be offered $40.00 and you will gladly take $60.00? After all every person with any sense treats others as they expect to be treated don't they?

I have an American straight needle machine, and looking at what this thread has to say I wonder if someone with a bit of skill and tools could make a good box stitcher attachment for them being that they are made to stitch very near the edge. Looking at the pictures on here I think it would be worth it for any one doing much box stitching. What do you experts think?

HA HA YEAH but none of them sew a decent stitch EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

To explain better the grooves I am talking about are not ones across to feed the material (although they to could do it) but the one that is length wise that is supposed to clear the thread to allow it to pull up. If you look on the bottom of the foot it will be one groove in line with the needle hole or slot. Having this one would make it less likely to hold the thread back.

Wiz is the expert no question. But here is something I have had happen, some times under some conditions sewing in reverse and then forward the foot puts more pressure on the thread at different times and affects the amount that the take up arm is able to pull back up. This could depend on if the foot is grooved on the bottom or not or if the groove is small for the thread size. Disclaimer: I do not own a machine of that model, this is just general observation.

I recommend making a flat plate sooner rather then later unless boot soles are about all you intend to use it for. I found sewing flat with the boot sole plate made it MUCH easier to break needles since there is so little support outside the needle. I made my flat plate what looks like wider and longer then the factory ones look to be from the pictures and vids but it gives good support on wider and longer things. I made mine 8" by 10"and made a guide for the inside. Some parts are available from Landis international in Montreal. I also have a message in to Pilgrim but am waiting to hear back. In Montreal needles are expensive but if you can't get them somewhere else the machine is worth it. There can be a bit of a learning curve getting the top thread tension right, read that part in the book several times. Have fun with it.

Thanks for your replies . I intended to use friction drive by putting a thick O-ring on the pulley that way when the bobbin is full it would kick out. So the crossed belt wouldn't be possible. Might have to use a belt yet. Would switching the wires on the brushes do the same thing as switching the brush housings?

I tried turning it over, it then turns the winder in the wrong direction that's why I want to reverse it. So that it turns the winder right with it turned over.

I have a small motor of a domestic sewing machine that I would like to mount to drive a bobbin winder, but if I mount it so it drives the winder in the right direction the motor is in the way of the thread coming from the tension discs. My question is can this motor be reversed. I have reversed other bigger motors by changing wires around but don't know which ones to change on this one, or if it is possible.

After looking at the picture again even looking at just one side there are lots of parts missing, the drive shaft with the clutch, the control box with the rheostat for warming the wax pot and the main switch. As stated it might be cheap enough to gamble on BUT parts are extremely hard to find. there are still a lot of these machines running that might explain why parts are hard to find. If you have the tools and skill and time to make parts you could end up with a good machine. After looking at the picture again even looking at just one side there are lots of parts missing, the drive shaft with the clutch, the control box with the rheostat for warming the wax pot and the main switch. As stated it might be cheap enough to gamble on BUT parts are extremely hard to find. there are still a lot of these machines running that might explain why parts are hard to find. If you have the tools and skill and time to make parts you could end up with a good machine.

It IS an A.N.S. I have one, and yes, lots are set up to sew on soles on boots, This one looks like it has a flat plate put on but it doesn't look like the one that was available for the machine. looks like it was attached to the sole stitching plate. It also looks like it has been badly abused, the shelf on the front is broken of , to do that it must have been dropped on its front, and it sure is too rusted to sew the way it is. If it has that much rust inside you have your work cut out for you for quite a spell.

When I was ready to buy Neels told me they HOPED to have a machine in ABOUT 6 weeks. Toledo had one ready to ship in 2 DAYS, so you might be wise to see who actually HAS the machine on hand.

That is a good example of what they can do, but the one in this vid is set up with for sewing soles on. Put on a flat plate ( you likely have to make it, I made mine in about 1 hour if I can you can ) and you have a whole other machine. Check out Lisa Sorels vid that Twin Oaks posted above, where she is side seaming boots and you will see the flat plate. If you want to see mine I can try to email you a picture.

Chayne, As I said I am not sure how to send a saved file but I will try. If that fails I could print one and send it for postage plus $3.00 for printer ink.

Chayne, I have manuals for A.S.N. I have it saved on my computer, but not sure how to send it to you I could print off a copy and mail it to you. They are available from Landis International in Montreal, That's where mine came from. They have them both in print or to download for about $20.00. If you are interested in one from me send me a pm. Then I can explain why I need to do it by PM Landis also sells used parts not exactly cheap but it is likely worth a look at their web site or even email or phone call..

In my opinion grooving leather that thin is just asking it to tear, if you have your machine set right it should pull the stitches down flush or below the surface unless the leather is really hard or your machine is to light for the job.

Are you using the same size thread top and bottom? If not you will have a LOT more trouble getting tensions right when you change thread size. I have a CB 4500 and almost never have to adjust thread tensions regardless of thread size. You should NOT have to be messing with bottom tension unless something really bad happened. It also sounds like the top thread is not coming smoothly, It could be the way you have it wrapped through the holes in the top peg, I have quit using it and run it trough the bobbin winder discs, they are adjustable and the thread comes at a steady tension. Coming through the peg it can get catchy and do what you are seeing. The reason I use the bobbin winder discs is I use a bobbin winder not attached to this machine