Art

I got a bunch of feet, a canvas setup, needles, thread, and 3 needle plates with the one I bought, You'll have to ask Gregg what he provides as accessories. The Highlead operates identical to the 441. Highlead is a top maker, some of their machines are rebranded with logos of makers we discuss here. The GA2688 is not popular with those same makers because it is too expensive, they use a cheaper manufacturer for their 441s. Additionally, most of the Highlead Machines are imported by Friedlander. Art

I use Liquitex in the tube (Hard Body) and Liquitex Medium to thin it. You can select a gloss or matte medium depending on what you need the final product to be (gloss or matte). I know folks that use only Liquitex, some only Winsor & Newton, etc.etc. Some mix them up, but they know how they each work. Me, it drove me nuts when Liquitex changed what they were calling their paint textures, soft, hard, super hard, but it makes more sense than what they were calling it before, but I am not really a painter (living room maybe). You might want to try the soft body first as you may not need to thin it and it does level better than the others. Like I say here a lot, you have to buy things and try them with every intention of scrapping it along the way. Art

Gregg at Keystone has the Highlead GA2688-1 which is the Highlead "beefed-up" version of the 441 (uses 441 parts though). I have two of these machines which have served me very well, one in extreme service without a complaint. The one that gets the heavy work has a stand identical to what Keystone supplies, which is also a battlewagon. They cost a couple hundred more than the West Coast machines, but you won't have to pay shipping as they are close to you. If you read much on leatherworker you will see that having the dealer close to you is a lot better than saving a few bucks. I see China really devaluing the renminbi/yuan which would allow the dollar to buy more, but the sewing machine prices are going up? Keystone has been around more than 30 years and are very reputable. Art

Bingo, but why go the Coca-Cola route, you can get aqueous solutions and even gels (for vertical surfaces). It even gets at rust in deep pits and turns them into little parkerized areas. Coke or parkerizing or Phosphoric Acid only works on steel without nickel or chrome. Personally, I use Evapo-Rust which does a good job and can be had at Wally World and Advance Auto among others. On badly rusted things, it may take 12 hours, but hell, I got time. Art

The problem with the Other "look alike" punches vs the CSO punch is that the CSO tubes fit the CSO Rotary and the CSO Single tube punches and most all of the competitor brands do not. CSO has been making that same Punch and Tubes (and anvil) for as long as I can remember, so it's not their fault. It is not like the Taiwanese and Chinese can't make SAE threading, it is just they won't for some reason. Does anyone really in their fondest maginations, think we are going to convert peacefully, well maybe if ALL the manufacturing leaves the US, but then who will have enough money to buy their stuff? I don't have too much trouble with getting something free to write a review (has to be able to go either way though), and I don't recommend something I haven't used (and abused). A few manufacturers send me things for review, and seldom do they want something used returned, even if the review is crappy. So I don't think they are paying for a review, even here where it is a little blatant. Art

This topic has been removed to the proper Marketplace category. It is going to be a little hard to find the actual subject among the 4,500 entries under "leather hole punch" on amazon without a little help from the seller. Nonetheless, this is a blatant ploy to access the many, many, active members here on leatherworker.net (many thousands). To the OP, please fill out your profile data, impressions are important, and no profile gives a bad impression. To the rest who didn't get a chance at the "free" deal; you don't have to buy a product on amazon (or get it free) to write a review. The review can point out that the other reviewers got the product free for a review. It can also point out why CSO or Sprenger punches are superior or whatever. Even a CSO or Sprenger punch can't beat one you can hit with a hammer, and if you are even reasonably competent at sharpening, you can find belt punches that will do the job all over ebay for practically nothing. Art

It's crazy, folks seem to have lost control. I order something for a ridiculous low price and it gets shipped from the manufacturer 2nd day Air. The shipping cost more than the item and they paid the shipping. I hate to say it, but I am using Amazon a lot because of shipping, and most times FREE 2 day, and they count Saturdays and Sundays! Jeesh, it wasn't THAT important. Then there are the put it in the hopper on one end and it never comes out the other. Put in tracking complaint and shipper paid or I got another one, just know I didn't pay. TWO YEARS later, the package arrives. Was told by sender (keep it, we just don't want to do the paperwork, $485 item, hey Ok Boy Howdy). Of course there is the other side when I'm the shipper. Art

Sold

Ok, $300 for all 14 tools shipped? If so Done. Art

Nice set. They really knew how to make a thonging chisel back in the day. The stamps should say only Craftool Co. and a number, no letter prefix. They were really well cared for and are a nice assortment, really a basic set, but a good size range in each type. Art

I'm surprised, usually resin and water don't mix that well. Definitely do a test piece as something may go wrong down the line. Art

I don't what the purpose of the thing sticking out the end, but the antler works great as a slicker for edges etc. I have several. Art

FYI, Matt is in SoCal, around Palm Springs - Cathedral City area. Art Matt, I sent you a PM, email me when you can. Art

As said before, you have your pictures or knowledge backwards. It is not uncommon to see "rough-out" applications where the flesh side is used as the top. In the second pic, note that the finish is flaking off in places around the edges; this might say something as to the quality. If you mean to have a "rough-out" finish, then Rough-up the grain side of both pieces Put contact cement on both the insides (what you just roughed-up) Allow adhesive to Tack-up, this can be as long as 1/2 hour (especially with water based cements) Check to see that both sides are shiny, if not you need another coat of adhesive, thin coats are always better; repeat till it drys shiny Put them together, I like to hammer and press with a light smooth hammer (shoemakers) to set the glue Let dry for another 1/2 hour Sew Art

You might also try 1-909-800-1429. Art

Make belt and buckle billets to make ranger style belts. Tool-up small decorative pieces with name or initials and attach to other belts. Art

The 84 is a nice little/medium flat bed walking foot drop feed (no needle feed) that sold complete for $1200 I think. I assume it is complete, stand, motor (hopefully servo), and speed reducer. Always sew the machine off and ask if there are any extra parts, tools, thread, bobbins, instruction books. oil, and maybe a side of chrome tan. Get what you can, but it is an ok price for a complete machine. If it doesn't have a servo or speed reducer, take some money off because by the time you add those you are $300 out. Most of the later Ferdco machines were Taiwanese (Taking) and are very good machines. Art

Anything you want in Chrome Tan should be in the 3-4 oz range, for veg tan, 3 oz or so is going to be max for rolled and pleated. That doesn't mean you can't deviate from the above, but you will have to do some test pieces. When doing something new, do testing if you can. As for machines, any medium duty upholstery or shoe machine will do the work you want. The Singer 111, 211, 153-101,2,3, Cowboy CB-227R Pfaff 335 or anything of the medium ilk will accomplish what you want. I would opt for the cylinder arm machines over the flat bed as the cylinder arm is more versatile, however either will do the job. There are a bazillion machines of the medium class, trim shops tend to be big on flat beds, but they don't usually do purses, bags, and things like that Art

The bevelers are pretty common, but desirable, expect $40. Filigree Chisels, got to find someone who wants them, maybe $40, maybe less. Ditto the foliage matters, are they smooth or textured? Again $40 maybe. The eyeball, not sure, Let's say $40 just to be consistent. Basically, you have to find someone who does the kind of work the tool was designed for, not always easy. Bob will buy them back from you if you need to unload them. Art

Italian Calf from Hardtke. If you can go ten sides at a time, then contact W&C as they will special run a 10 side batch. Waterhouse may also fit the bill with their Renaissance leather. For all American, W&C is pretty much your only answer. Art

I have some in 1018 which are good, I have some in O-1 that are excellent. If it is a basketweave or border stamp then O-1 or some high carbon chrome alloy would be good as these stamps take a beating. Ask Barry King what he uses for his stamps as they hold-up very well. Depending on your timeframe, Bob Beard can make you whatever you want, and it will be better than cast both detail and use wise. Art

Sheaths do not keep knives sharp, they do however cut down on band-aid consumption. Art

And you can make a planer blade or an ax do that, even at some pretty steep angles. I've been cut by 90° lathe bits and circular saw blades a time or two. Art

Generally, veg tan outside, and thinner veg tan inside. If you have a piece with some heavy marks, use that on the inside, keeping in mind that there will be places where the backing will show. Art

Sharp is simply sharp enough for the task. What good is a razor sharp butcher knife if the edge is set back by a bone or chainmail glove? Sharp is a good polished facet up to the intersection of the facets or more commonly, the edge. More importantly, how much metal do you need behind the edge to provide some durability. Knife edge profiles are always a tradeoff. That being said, sharpening is a machining operation. The deliberate and controlled removal of material. Where two flat planes meet, you have an edge, an almost non dimensional line at the intersection. We all strive to attain and maintain this edge. With a head knife, I would say it can never be too sharp, although some do push the envelope as far as angle goes (I like an included angle of 25 degrees for almost any hand type tool). A head knife is dull when you can hear it cut (sounds like tearing). Since nobody does enough of it, we tend to talk about it a lot on this forum. Art