KAYAK45

It helps me. I've got a couple guys who want thinner belts than 10 oz and yet stiff like a 10. Cannot find a material that I like and have tried all the above suggestions. I want things in life I can't get too. So I am not going to try this anymore for now. Thanks guys, Kevin

Art you have a great idea I think. But two bucklers side/side will rub or runover. How about three 1". The outer two standard length and the third ..say..11/2 " longer. The outsides wont touch each other, the third looks great and wont touch the other two. Just an idea, I also don't know the application you ask about. I did a weight lifter belt that way for looks and adjustability

Look right here on l/w in "LEATHER TOOLS" a pinned article on round knives. Hope that helps. Welcome Kevin

I can see the pickle your in Mate. From China to California and Back to NZ, just to have a lad look it over, thread and needle and test sew. I'm seasick already. I'll bet, and I don't speak for anybody, I'll bet one of our member dealers could talk you through the set up. Wow!. I won't bet... YOU CAN! LOL As for the service they provide? Yes it is worth it. Oh, and you want a "decent service manual"..NO WAY. If'n I had to rely on the chinese manual I got, I wouldn't be able to thread the darn thing. The other 20/so pictures and instructions and hints saved my tooche. But still these things can be overcome in this age of communications, e-mAILS AND SUCH. Buy the machine through one of our members,. Talk to THEM about direct shipping and setup. All but one of them is a good guy. Wanta know which one. I AINT TALKING. lollol kEVIN

After consideration of your answer, I have come to I think, the only orderly answer to this situation. On the marrow I shall use my trusty FINDER list I obtained from my mentor, and order from McPherson 4 pairs of all sized listed. Luckily they are not of extreme cost. I take your words of caution to heart and am prepared to replace the entire heel, and to that end have laid aside a soling bend for that purpose, if needed. I already ordered from that purveyor lemonwood peg, lasting pliers and assorted supply. That will give my the stock I will need and when I get done, I shall have their experience necessary, and they shall have my money. Altogether a fair trade.

THANKS A LOT PAUL! No really. The reason I was confused is that it is confusing. That's a lot better, to my mind, than being dense, on my part.HAHAHA Yes I was looking for systematic, logical system, not subject to manipulation or interpretation. That's all. How's the new shop coming along, Paul? Find everything you lost in the move, yet?

Everyone has the right to their opinion. Especially on the 4th of July 2011! Personally I try to remember this was originally a VIDEO TAPE from around 1990. The book was originally published FREE in Shoe Services Magazine,1988 I'm quite sure the techniques and technologies have changes in say~~ 20 years, as well as the expertise of the subject matter and presenter. I, for one, just finished viewing for the third time and completed the book for the second time. I am not at all dissapointed with the content, presentation or information, or cost.. I have received my monies worth and more. Keep in mind this is over 25 hour of instruction. To receive golf instruction has cost me thousands over the years. I have flown to Nevada and paid for shooting school at a total cost of more. Flying lessons cost tens of thousands more. Were all these endeavers of a greater value to me than making a proper foot cover. I think Not!

Thanks for the question, ART I missed the T2 by a couple hundred, but scored the old 450 for a couple hundred. It'l do for that price, for now!

You think we could shrink you handle down to "archer" Wiz is being really hard on my speln, I think I'm goin to market a servpro couse it sounds kinda good. That motor wiill taake, I think, a 3/8" bolt, kinda pointed at the end, and rope of somekind for thread. it's reallly realllly strong. It'l sew througjh two fingers with no problem. #/3/4 Inch leather, No Problem!

Thanks guys. Just finished D.W.'s DVD for the second time. 27 hours!. Worth every CENT! Wish he had RANDEE do the tops segment just to break it up. HAHAHA. Really, what if you could see REES or GOLDING or the other dead guys, talking you through a pair of wellingtons! WOW.

HAHAHA Welcome aboard. My femur huh? I once stitched my fingers crossed waiting for a machine, but never thought of the femur. Two things you could do: A: buy a servo motor like the SERVPRO B: Put a really big pulley on top your machine, and a littlee tiny smalll itsy pulley on the bottom

Just run of the mill boots. Some are ropers, other CLASSICS how are the sizes determined.?

Good idea! Your not the first guy thats been CB'D to the basement sleeping arrangement, It's worth it.

WOW. The wife understands? I'm in love with your wife and I have't even sleaped with her ...yet, I got CB'D to the basement! Good sales job!

Why would an adalt contributing member have to ask for priveleges? AND have our names posted as asking???? That is an insult to my integrety! FORGET IT!

OH I forgot your thickness question. Sorry. Everything you can fit under the foot! The 111w is such a heavy hauler it will handle it. I have changed my foot clearance and modified the foot to a total thickness of 1/2" barely! Advise stick to 3/8 or 7/16 MAX.

I had to look at the manual cause I never have PUSHED this machine. Highest needle size. per book is 24. My other chart says thread size for 24 is max 207. I put a new handwheel on mine, 10" and really slowed it down with a clutch motor. The other option is a SERVPRO w/gear reduction built in that will give you 1 stitch in 3 seconds. That's a lot better than my 251-3 that does 40 stitches per minute.

I also have a 111w155. The foot and the plate both are your problem, not necessarily the speed, which you say you have under control. Call BOB, SEWMUN here and get a roller foot and a smaller plate, toledo Industrial, If that doesn't work. buy another new machine. Great excuse! Honey, (I really need it) really!

OK guys and gals, I'm new to this boot thing and want to resole and reheel as a start. How do you measure and size for heel replacement? They seem to come in "7 to 15" or such and what is the difference? Also seams, some use a "sheet" of heel rubber and cut there own. Pros and Cons? Your help, as always is appreciated Novite Kevin

Hey guys, this might of been some kind of record. Bruce 10:14 Dirtclod 10:14 Wiz 10:15 Me 10:15 AND we all agreed.

Luke has it correct, I think. The 16" is the new standard to be measured and the resale value in years to come will indicate that. You may not need it now, but what are you going to sew in say five years. $300 seems like cheap insurance you only have to do one upgrade and your done. I bought the CB4500 for those reasons and am very happy, with hindsight, for that decision.

HI! You get the experts answer in a little while. I read a book about this, and I stayed at a holiday inn last nite. Your thread tensions need to be "evened out". With the top thread totally tight and the lower loose the top will PULL the bottom to the surface. You want the knot in the middle of your work. So loosen the top and tighten the bottom until you get it. I read that if you hand pull some thread the top should pull about the same as the bottom. If you were to go too far at this, with a loose top and tight bottom you LOOP should end up under your material.

Welcome to L/W! What part of the country, or for that matter, what part of the world, are you in? You'll soon get lots of answers to all your questions.

Be patient. Last August, right here on L/W, volume 1 & 3 advertised for $65. OBO. I assume gone now. I pd. $77+ shipping for all three last year on E-Bay. Good hunting.

On second thought. I'll go back with TEXASJACK. What kind of holster are you trying to make? My post won't work on say a pancake and uh.. as soon as particle gets well.. he can address that.