Roger

intersting piece! well done. it's a nice mix of floral and skulls.

antique should go on after dyeing. the leather should be sealed before applying the antique for maximum contrast

came out real nice! might think about lining. i think it would make it a bit more finished

yea.. you would want to punch all the holes first

very cool! always love seeing the different skulls you come up with

yea... it was not easy to miss it this year! hope to be there next year. first order of business is to get the chop painted and back together. good to hear david. glad i could help out

thanks steve! i have gotten to where i tool on the dry side when doing this sort of lettering. helps keep things where they should be

i don't see that at all! looks nothing like what they use. BTW... .something that made this one really interesting........... i decided to chuck the drive punch up in my little drill press to make all the holes and don't you know it!!! the darn thing spit grease out all over the seat!! i ran it on the lowest speed and it's just hot enough here that some grease ran out and got slung everywhere!!! i was lucky that it was fairly clean and too thick to soak in right away :wtf:

david felt that the extra lacing would be too much on the p-pad. the passenger would also be sitting on that lace as it would of been on top and would be uncomfortable for sure

i have had much on my mind putting this seat together. the design was one that was tooled on a wallet by ETW Grumpy. hope you are doing well grump!

matched up well david, nice color. it was a pleasure to help

sorry to see the problems you are having! this is why i don't use antique on seats. even if you seal it, once you get out in a good rain you will have problems. some things just won't work for long out in the weather. i'ed like to see some pics of your seat to see how it came out. btw.. i never did understand how a water based sealer would work over antuque as it is full of oils and wax???

how are you cutting it too short? i normally make a paper template for the top. i have also heard of guys using tape. covering the whole seat and then cutting out the pieces. hole spacing depends on the pattern you are using

that's fine. remember that you can re-wet it and do some more pulling plus it will shrink up some more no closeup. the top just overlaps the side and yes, you can see the edge through the lacing

thanks!! wondered what happened to ya. lots of inspiration here

hey man!! i have'nt been on in a couple days. welcome! i always enjoyed your stuff!

sorry man! i didn't get the email notification on this one for some reason. the center is cut out and i try not wet my tooling. i try to just wet the side i don't see any reason why you could not stretch a whole piece then remove it and do what you want to do. some pics from the tutorial i did

glad to hear you were able to use the leather. i just sent two more boxes out to members here. the stamp was made by jeff mosby- grey ghost graphics real nice guy and it cost me around $85 for that size. i did give him artwork in the format his laser cutting progeram uses so there was no extra cost there. the vest is a pre made vest that the customer supplied. i am just making the panel and lacing it on for him. i have made a couple vests in the past back when i was a teenager

the top is one piece and the side is one piece. it is stitched together before hand

because of the way i am covering seats, i finish them after installing the cover. i got away from using multiple pieces for the sides. i like the cleaner look of no seams. i would guess the area you are having the most problems in would be the back. it takes a lot of pulling and stretching to get that area to lay right.

you just need to pull them out as best you can. make sure it's good and wet then let it dry and see what you get. like i said... some times you have to go back a second time after the leather takes a set. rewet it, take out the pop rivets and pull on it some more. i generally start at the bend (i'll call it) the widest point where the seat curves up at the back. then i work my way forward then back. i get the easy parts out of the way first and the hardest areas last. that way the water can work on the harder areas longer. don't forget to keep it good and wet during the whole precess

thanks guys!! mfm it's black and oxblood. craftsman.. the lifter is one that i made and i do enjoy finding uses for it. i'll post a close up pic of my stamp. the pebblers qwere from hide crafter. i have heard robert beard did the originals. don't think i will ever be able to aford his tools but, as nice as these are i sure wish i could. here's the color. i had hoped to start lacing it to the vest tonight but, other things ran late today. i will have it done over the weekend and will post pics. the vest will be back in the mail on monday.

well.... you just gotta go for it! i cut the top the way i want it shaped then cut the side in one piece. i make sure i have way more than i need to wrap the sides and wet the side to get it to conform. this one should be pretty easy. some of the more extreem/complex seats require me to install the cover and let it sit till near dry or dry and rewet it,drill out some rivets and pull some more but, this one should cover rather easy. i don't get krazy with making patternz...

good looking stuff steve!! your stuff is always originial

Thanks for all the comments and compliments!!! ian, it's going to be red and black maybe a bit of grey i love my pebblers!! i really want to come up with a different design of my own. i think about it now and then but, they are the most effective. the leather is 6-7 oz thanks tom!! i always enjoy your posts embossing....you never know!!