Tree Reaper

I agree Ferg, I wish it was all published in an organized format as it is a wealth of information.

I just had it fired up and it worked quite well considering I've never touched a sewing machine before. The bobbin thread is getting caught in the bottom stitches but I think it's the way the threads are held when starting to stitch. The operators manual needs some work because there isn't much there for a novice operator, I got much of the information I needed from the videos Bob has. Bob did a good job of setting it up. I'd like to get a good book on sewing leather with a machine if anyone is aware of one. Kevin.

It can be!

Wiz; The thread that Bob sent is pre lubed. Catskin; Are you using the flatbed table and if so, for what purpose? The one that was shipped to me is missing a threaded insert, it only came with three instead of four. If there's a use for the top I'll try and get it fixed. Kevin.

Here's what it looks like

Hey, welcome to the forum! Kevin

Michael; I have a sample piece of 4/5 sewn with bonded nylon 66 size 138 using 794S DYX3 S needle and it looks good.

Ok, I had no idea about that, do all threads require the lubrication? That picture you posted helps Wiz, I looked at the Toledo video and didn't see the lube box. I'll be out logging today but I'll have another look at it when I get back. Thanks all for the help. Kevin.

The 4500 doesn't come with illustrated parts or assembly instructions and I have a few pieces that I'm not sure what they are or where they belong. There is what I think is an optional table but I don't know where it goes or what it's for. Next is a box with what looks like a thread guide. I figured out where the casters go on my own. Thanks. Kevin.

Welcome to the forum Nate, the only thing that doesn't fit in the list is the Saddle Chisel because I don't see any lace on your list. Kevin.

Welcome to the forum Chris. Kevin.

I'm not an experienced carver but if you used block out on the area in question then it would appear lighter. Beautiful work, how did you make the tree impressions on the last one? Kevin.

Well you already know that you can't expect great results without all the required tools. You might be able to dampen the leather and smooth those areas out with a modeling spoon. Just keep carving the head area, it has the most detail and will use less leather until you are happy with the results. You might carve a half dozen before you are satisfied. Practice on drawing straight lines and curves then bevel those on scrap leather. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35327&pid=218874&st=0entry218874

Hi Cheryl; What bevelers are you using? When you bevel, put the edge of the beveler in the cut and tip the handle towards the horse so that the beveled portion doesn't wander too far away from the image. Over all it looks ok, I wouldn't scrap it.

Hi Cheryl; To keep it simple I would bevel around the horse, when you stain it wipe off the horse right away and leave the back ground for 45 seconds more then wipe it off.

Nice find!

Thanks for the replies, I'll stick with the 4500 and hope it meets my needs.

That looks like a good splitting method for smaller strips.

Hey Ronnie; I have a cowboy coming from Toledo, I didn't know you had machines here in Canada or I would have considered looking at Techsew. The only reason I decided on the cowboy machine was because of the reviews on this site and the fact that Bob is a sponsor. Most of the leather I'm sewing right now is 3/16 to 1/4 inch. I thought if I had a machine that would sew up to 7/8 I could use it for anything but after reading some of the posts on here I'm wondering if the machine might be too aggressive for lighter projects. Kevin.

Can someone give me some insight on whether a machine that's capable of sewing 7/8" leather might be too heavy for sewing lighter goods or do they work just as well on thin stuff? I have a concern that a heavy duty machine will only do a decent job on heavy items. Thanks. Kevin.

Do you have a picture of it by chance?

That clasp appears on the Springfield site and it shows the fake posts, Tandy's picture doesn't for some reason.

Are the rivets fixed to clasp or are they just stuck in the holes? Tandys picture clearly shows holes and they say five rivets are required and nothing about them being included.

You have a bad lot, call Tandy.

Andrew; They make some pretty strong switchable magnets that you can attach a wood or metal fence to. When you don't have a need for it just switch it off and remove it. Kevin