Tree Reaper

Mark; I totally agree with you on the strength in the stitching, I don't think it will be a problem but as the collar gets wet and it penetrates those areas it could weaken the leather over time. Considering a dogs life span I don't think it would break in that time. If the dog spent a lot of time in the water it might be more of a concern. Kevin

Nice job on the sheath but I also think he made a mistake wanting it all black, you can't see any of the detail.

Use the smooth side Ken, glue the rough side. Cardboard from a cereal box works good on a slab, use the inside of the box for applying the rouge. Kevin.

If you open the clasp there should be three more rivet holes.

Looks like rivet, segma and eye setting tools.

Antique would be a good choice.

Thanks Ken; I've been wondering if there was an easier way to make those things with less effort but still have good results and I got lucky. Hope to see some of your work soon too! Kevin.

Hello Ken and welcome to the forum. Kevin.

It should work, give it a go on some scrap. Put it on the leather and apply pressure for several minutes or longer.

This is what metal does to wet leather, turns it black. This was a piece of metal hanger on a scrap piece of leather. It can be used to enhance a project or destroy it.

Just use a piece of rough sawn lumber, lumber that hasn't been planed, dampen the leather like you normally would for casing then clamp the leather and the wood together in a vise but be sure to use wax paper or something else on the back of the leather that is touching the steel jaw on the vise or it will turn the leather black where the metal makes contact with the wet leather. I use a wood working vise with large flat jaws, for smaller jaws you would need to use something else on one jaw to create a larger surface area.

Hey Cheryl; No foam, just a hole in a block of wood, drop the wet leather in the hole, drop another small block over the leather and in the same hole, place another piece of wood over that and place it between the jaws of a vice and tighten it up. Right on!

Cheryl, check this out http://leatherworker...howtopic=37136. I was trying to eliminate all the work of trying to form a piece of leather around a block. You could easily form one or two of these a day once the mold is made and then you have it. I probably have about one hour into making the mold from scrap wood I had laying around. Just put the leather in the block and go watch the hockey game. You would use something smaller that would go in the shape of the pocket without flatting it out on a large slab. Kevin

It could be stamped outside of the mold for best results. Now if you wanted to place something like nylon window screen or hardware cloth or make something out of metal and secure it inside on the bottom then it would make an impression but for something like basket weave I would stamp it after. Anything metal should be coated unless you want the black affect in the impression. If I was attempting that I would do a piece of scrap first to see what the results were.

Thanks Rick. I don't have any use for it, just wanted to try and make it. In the past I would measure the leather, make the pouch then put the object in the damp leather and form it that way. I like the idea of putting the leather in a mold, clamping it a vise then pop it out ready to go. I might try and make one with a round bottom just to test the mold. The molds can be reused again and again. Kevin.

This is my 1st wet formed project and I'm happy with the results. Kevin.

The edges are good to go it's just the opening needs a little dressing.

I have to say I am happy with the results. It was like baking a cake, just sit back and let it happen. You can even drop or glue a design in the bottom and let the leather pick it up. It was easy to trim and once it completely dries I'll sand it closer to the edge.

Well, six hours is up.

I have the leather in the form now and I'll check it after six hours and we'll see what we have.

If using solid wood, quarter sawn has the grain coming through the face of the board and would be better for pounding on but it's usually custom cut and more money than plain sawn . A hardwood like quarter sawn oak would be solid.

Have you considered those toe flaps that the lace goes through on the back, you could extend them to go over the toe then tack them to the sole in front? That way you aren't damaging the boot and you can always change them. They would be easier to carve and work with.

Roger that. I'll get the leather and the insert together and then put the entire thing in a vise and let it dry. It should work.

That's a good tip, I've never tried that.

You'll want some thick dense foam if you can find it. Something that will be firm enough to force the leather down yet be pliable enough to work with. Good luck.