Tree Reaper

Just get ready, post what you want to sew before you sew it and you'll get help. I just bought a machine also and the machine is very easy to operate. I still have trouble on angled corners to get it exact but I don't use the machine enough. Get into the sewing machine forum below, the people there really know their sewing machines. Kevin

They will hold up well and hold a stitch well too. I had a wallet that I carried for a few years before the lining let go but the beaver tail is still in great shape. The only finish I've used is neat lac. Kevin.

Thank you both.

For small items you can use a wood form and wood workers vice. I use this method for forming molded pouches.

Beaver tail is stiff and durable. When commercially tanned it can be more pliable. I like to back it up with suede or light leather but it is easy to work with and reasonable to buy. The tails I have are from beaver I had trapped years ago, sold the hides, saved the tails and tanned them. I bought a beaver tail wallet that was crafted by natives and that's when I realized the tails could be put to good use. They are usually left on the carcass and discarded. Kevin.

One with a beaver tail inlay.

For the coat, look for a Furrier in your area.

Could you use a screw post?

Looks good to me, nice work. You can smooth those beveling marks with a modeling spoon.

Hair removal is done prior to tanning, you would be better off trying to sell what you have and buy what you need. The hair will be locked in and will be difficult to remove without damaging the hide not to mention the work involved.

I'm pretty sure you can order anything from Ohio through Springfield.

You can measure corner to corner diagonally to see if the two measurements match. If the box is square and your two angles are cut at exactly 45 to make a 90 then everything should fit. A one or two degree difference and they won't fit tight. In that case you can measure the angle and cut the leather to match or cut leather scraps the same width and put them on the box, if there's a gap then cut the leather to bring the two corners together then transfer those angles to the real piece.

Looks good. I would replace that rod with a carriage bolt, put a coil spring on the bolt between the jaws so the jaws open on their own then put a flap of leather with a snap over the wing nut so your thread doesn't keep catching it.

Check the pawn shops.

Do you have a picture of this ?

Do you know for certain the box is square?

A mitered corner would just be marked at 45o cut and joined to another piece the same width at the same angle. A mitered edge for sewing is a little more complex. Are you having trouble with corners or edges? Kevin.

Hello Leonard and welcome to the forum. Kevin

Looks good Bob, will look really good once the finish is on.

Thanks HJ.

Can you download them into Photoshop?

I saw it and like it. What program was that?

That works. I just need some fancy letters.

That's great, thank you.