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Everything posted by Tree Reaper
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Would this be a pouch for a knife,fork and spoon set? I'd like to see the desired shape you would require, any chance of posting a picture?
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What I use is cedar for the mold then for strength I use a PL Premium construction adhesive and glue on a piece of plywood to the bottom and to the top of the mold. What are you thinking of molding? I used the foam on the new mold and duplicated that round pouch face today. I have a cigar lighter that I use for melting rope ends and starting propane appliances, I'm making a case from the two halves.
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I hope you send this to Tandy head office, maybe they'll get it right and save others the same problem.
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The ability to make things cheaper than dirt and cowboy simple is what drives me.
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Thanks Cheryl, I don't think these will get that far off the ground but it sure makes my molding life easier.
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I tried a round mold and it works just as well. I can cut this in half and get two pouch faces with it.
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Neillo; That's it. Thanks for posting that, I just book marked the page for future use. Kevin.
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I like it, your stitching needs improving but it looks good. You could put a D ring on the bottom at the back and snap the snap to that. Unsnap it and hang it from something or snap it to be used around a belt. You should make a few them for your business, it's a good idea and many people use those pens.
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I usually deal with Tandy or Springfield, Springfield is a sponsor here.
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if the metallic paints work it would be fantastic (the clear coating on shrink plastic ruins the effects of metallic, would sealing leather do the same thing?), can I blend colors on leather? Yes, you can seal the paint on the leather and you can blend the colors also but thinning the paint prior to applying it and using more than one layer usually works best. If you don't want colors to run spraying the sealer works. Can I iron on a transfer of some kind? Maybe but it's most likely going to peel or crack over time. I need to select a leather that is not finished (something that will absorb the paint) and preferably white and not too expensive to start with, and maybe a source for scraps to practice on with paints first too You can buy scraps of smooth veg tanned leather, natural untreated leather will absorb paint better. I have no idea what thickness, 4 to 5 oz. leather should be about right. And I need a source of materials (I want to start with a smaller piece than an entire hide, a couple feet) You can buy small quantities from the advertisers here. I imagine I need to seal them, seal the paint afterwards... I would suggest using paint and sealers that are compatible with each other and are suited to working on leather, your leather supplier can help provide you with the proper paint and sealer. Phone them and they'll sell you what you need. I can drill holes in the clips or stitch around the standard bar type barrette.... do I need a special thread? a waxed heavy thread? You can use adhesive or waxed thread. When stitching leather, you punch a hole in the leather with an awl and stitch using needles designed for waxed thread. I can swing an exacto knife but... the best way to cut? This works well, keep the blade sharp. is it not going to work the way I am imagining? It will work, there will be some trial and error. I've had some ask about making flowers to clip on shoes and sandals.... I was playing with fabric and plastic coating, not very satisfactory....I think leather would work for that too There are some very talented people here making flowers from leather, just do a search. Good luck!
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http://zackwhite.com/xcart/product.php?productid=20117&cat=899&page=1
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Thank you all, not an engineer but I think it's in everyone to dream stuff up. Just know that this foam can be messy, requires acetone for cleaning and rubber gloves.
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Yes, I used the foam to expand the leather and now I have a foam mold that will seat the leather into the wood mold time after time. The top block was screwed to the bottom block, I had two holes pre drilled in the top block to insert the plastic tube from the can of foam. I placed a piece of plastic bag over the leather to protect it from the foam and filled the block with foam, sealed the two holes and let it expand. The foam is rigid but not real hard although it's hard enough for repeated use.
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I was playing with this idea of using expanding insulating foam to wet form leather projects. This is going to be a guitar pick case, it just requires trimming now and I'm pleased with the results.
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http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=39595
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OK, how would you like to handle the transaction Bruce? Kevin.
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I have a U.S mail box so I just have it mailed to me in Michigan, declare it in Canada and bypass the brokers and long delays. They usually let us bring in $100 -$150 for just a few hours spent in the U.S, the only thing they collect is the Canadian and Provincial taxes at 15% when you go over the limit.
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Thanks Ferg, that's a 3/4", I really wanted 1" but their price along with shipping is reasonable. If I can't find the 1" I may just buy a couple of these.
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http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8355802/Stamp-Sets/27-pc-3/8-in.-Letter-Stamp-Set
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No, I mean your leather project. The tool is square, the sides of the leather may be the same length but if they aren't square then there's no way a square tool can end up square on the last line of a piece of leather that isn't square. Measure corner to corner on your project, both measurements should be equal. In this diagram you would measure corner to corner on the blue line and corner to corner on the red line. Both lines must be exactly equal length with each other, if they aren't then your pattern will never be square on the leather. Your geo pattern I suspect is square but the leather isn't square with the geo pattern and that's most likely your problem.