NVLeatherWorx

And that is why ALL custom orders that I take are paid in full prior to any work even starting; hell, don't even cut the leather until "the check has cleared".

I would have to agree with you that there are some darn fine youngsters around here but, only those who actually take into account the information that has been provided to them when they ask a question for clarification or to just plain learn. There are also just as many who want an answer to a question but then don't like that one so they end up continually having issues. It is very nice indeed though to see that the future of our craft and trade does have some light at the end of the tunnel and that there are enough new leather workers that can carry on our world of leather. I have been at this for over 40+ years and I still find myself picking something new up every once in awhile.

You should be okay to apply your conditioner to the flesh side if you desire; I would recommend that you apply it to a moderate level and then let it sit for a day or two to really absorb into the leather before you try and buff off any residue. Just make sure that you don't overdo it so as to avert any issues.

Have NEVER had the acrylics crack on me since I started working with them nor have I ever had an issue with dye bleed, so, I go back to the my comment that the product is either wrong or it is being applied improperly. That is it in a nutshell and sorry if it doesn't fit your thinking. I have been doing this for 40+ years and it has NEVER failed me. Quantify and compare that.

Very wise words here indeed but the poster of these words has only made this one comment since they joined this community and hasn't visited this community since 2013; not what I would consider to be a source for quality information or support. We get out of our business what we put into it; if we don't invest ourselves then we will not see a return. There are several of us who make a set line of items and have done so for quite some time and found success with them. The trick is to learn what does work and replace what doesn't with a new (limited initial quantity) item until you fill out your line to where you want it. I have found that those who are constantly trying to provide limited runs on items that sell through at a steady pace end up closing up shop because their satisfied customers recommend new ones who want the same thing only to find that it is no longer available so they go elsewhere. Leather is not a "make it and they will buy it" type of operation, it has to be accepted in design, quality, and price by the consumer or else it is just another wallet (or whatever it is that you are making). Uniqueness doesn't come from constantly changing what you make, it comes from how well you design what you make and how original it is. Being copied is actually a sign of success so when you see it happening you just have to change your product listing information to reflect that yours is the original and that those copies out there are not to the same standards or craftsmanship as what you make (and, for the most part, it would be very true). Be unique by being original but don't spend too much time on trying to create new designs just to stay fresh; it will take up all of your time that should be spent on making your products.

As a newbie to this craft you might want to start off with some projects that you can fiddle with and learn from; watch straps are not easy by any means and I have seen a ton of feeble attempts from several crafters over the years (enough to easily fill a big mining dump truck, no joke) that had to have cost thousands in wasted materials and even more in wasted time. Watch straps tend to be a personal item, much like a belt, and that means that they end up becoming a custom order item for those who wish to have something unique; the biggest issue is finding those who want to pay the extra cash for such things and that have an idea of what they are looking for. I still make watch straps but only on a custom order basis and I don't just take every single request that comes along; I have found that most people who are asking about it are just asking about it and have no real desire to commit to it. I prefer to have a nice watch strap on my wrist and I don't wear just a plain watch, I am wearing one of those Fitbit Blaze fitness trackers (and yes, I have the frames and pins to make straps for those as well as for the Apple Watch). I have found that in the past couple of years that watch strap making has become the new direction and these Maker's have had several years of leather work experience under their belts before they made that leap; and, having seen some of their work, I can see it as an area that would be tough to break into and claim a stake in that category unless you have a solid name behind you (i.e. well known as a high quality leather worker) and plenty of patience. Good luck in your research though and keep us appraised of how things go for you.

Be cautious of the "deal" from Tandy; their leathers are not of the better quality and if they are offering what appears to be a "smoking bargain" then it is most likely the lower grades and full of issues as they have picked it up from the source as rejects/seconds (not suitable for use in the manufacture of garments/upholstery). Tandy NEVER puts quality stuff on a bargain and they haven't been dealing in quality products for a very long time. If you go forward with the purchase of one of these hides be prepared for the potential (very real potential) that you will most likely not get much finished product out of it as it most likely contains blemishes, scratches, inconsistencies, and a myriad of other issues that would result in low yield.

And also keep in mind that products like Mop-n-Glo and other NON-LEATHER intended items can, and will, have an impact on how things maintain their appearance going forward. Shortcut methods are one of the biggest issues that most leather workers face (and yet they are being promoted and recommended constantly), especially newly minted hide manipulators. There is a reason why there is an entire category of products that have been specifically made for use with leather and they have a very long and proven record of success which pretty much explains why you will always find your way back to them eventually. Every new leather worker would benefit so much more from just going with the proven methods and materials that are designed to be used on leather instead of trying to find the cheap route out. I think there are enough examples of how "cheap" ends up becoming an issue or a disaster yet we still see this being addressed at least once per week in some fashion or another. Research, research, research, and then, if it seems too good to be true and so simple then it is possibly NOT the way to go.

Don't know what product you are using but I have never, in my 40+ years of working with leather, had any of the dyes or acrylics that are specifically designed for leather crack or even reduce the life of the leather. If you are using any such product then it isn't really intended to be used on leather in the first place. If your intention is to paint then you use an acrylic leather paint; if you are looking to get more depth of color then use dye because it penetrates deeper (as it is supposed to do). I too would hazard that you are either using the wrong product or applying it improperly. If you are attempting to apply leather paints to leather that is other than veg-tan you will also see a high degree of failure as there are no pores left on those heavily processed hides to let anything set and hold. I have several local hobby crafters that think you can apply acrylic leather paints to latigo and other such leathers and they get frustrated when it doesn't take; I ask them if they have ever heard that water and oil don't mix? They have no clue where I am going with that question until I explain to them how latigo leather is made and processed; once they learn that the oils and wax will pretty much prevent anything from having a long-term presence it is like watching that old cartoon lightbulb in their head come on. Quite amazing. And no, have never attempted to add anything to spirit dyes because it would change the effect that the dye would have and to reduce it down will only create a huge mess and net you any different results because all it does is evaporate and doesn't really thicken; it just leaves the pigments behind.

Can't really think of any that provide quality lace anymore, I do use the Kangaroo lace from Springfield though and find it to be a huge step up from calf (I have always used calf up to the point I tried 'roo though). Tough to find any quality materials anymore, or suppliers that stay in business.

Depends on who you have tried. I never recommend anything from Tandy though; quality of their products has been in the crapper for many, many years and it ain't gettin' any better.

Then you beveled pretty deep because those lines are very well defined as if they had been lightly cut first. What size spoon are you using? If you only have the smaller version it would be a good investment (along with the figure bevelers) to get the larger one as well. I have about 9 different models (still from the original "old school" days) and wouldn't know what to do if I didn't have them. These things have long since lost their original chrome plating and are now just aged, smooth, hardened steel (and they work much better now than they did when they were new). I don't think you need to see a video, just use the spoon like you would use a hand-held pear shader and slowly shape, depress, and form the leather to the results that you are looking for; it is very much like burnishing only you aren't going for speed, you are going for form. You could start off by actually using a pear shader (size depends on area to be formed) by lightly following your contour lines (down the middle of it) and tapping your shader just enough to start the area off; finish it off by gradually shaping/shading/forming the overall area to get the relief that is intended. The learning curve on this is not as difficult as some make it sound; just practice the techniques and adjust as necessary until you get the look that you are going for. This holds true to everything about this craft.

I agree with 300% and the lzpattern shop owner tried to get me to provide ideas for their patterns awhile back which I promptly told them to quit contacting me and that I was not interested in working with them. There is no doubt that some things I have made have since been replicated by them. It would nice if Etsy were to shut them down when it comes to that but we will have to wait and see. It isn't difficult to come up with a design for most of things that you find being made; all you have do is have a couple of functioning brain cells, and idea, and a paper and pencil to put it all down on. Guess that lack of individual thinking that is so rampant in today's world is why we have to copy others instead of creating it ourselves.

One thing that I would suggest is that when you are doing the muscle tone areas (shoulders, ribcage, hips, etc.) instead of doing a fine cut and then beveling it out try working with it like Al Stohlman did; those lines on his patterns are traditionally dotted or broken line at the least which are intended to denote a shaded area and not necessarily a cut and bevel area. I have been doing figure carving for quite some time and found that the best way to get those areas looking more natural is to work them with modeling spoons (which is what Al did, and that is what he taught me) and even an occasional pear shader if you need a broader a area (use it like a modeling spoon and keep pushing it down until you get the right contour). I also learned from him that once you have all of you edges finished, regardless of whether beveled or shaped, you should use the modeling spoon and round all sharp/abrupt edges so that you bring more realistic life look to the project. You would be amazed at the difference you will see from just rounding off the edges of a leg and how much more real it makes the detail look. Shading is you best friend when it comes to figure carving because that is what creates your relief and it can be done with something so simple as a modeling tool. But, as mentioned earlier, it is also a good idea to have the right figure carving tools to this work with as they come in very handy when you have large areas that you have to cover. The modeling spoon concept is a direct result of the Leather Carving Finesse book and he and Anne used it religiously.

I use two types of plastics; the thin cutting mats that you can get from any store is used for items that will have limited runs, while using a thicker plastic that I buy in sheets off of Amazon (less than 1/8" thick) is used for all items that are a common "staple" of my works. Both of them have a much longer life span than any paper based materials and they don't respond negatively to moisture so there is no curling up or anything else that happens when your cardboard gets wet. I always make a paper mock-up of everything I make to ensure that the proportions are correct and that the end results are what is intended; once the mock-up is confirmed I transfer the pattern to the appropriate plastic and that is it.

Never used it for main pieces but have shaved some of it down to use for linings and the like where thinner was better. It is chrome tanned and has also been highly altered to get that "pristine" look that furniture leather has. Don't really have much use for it otherwise so I just stay clear of it altogether.

PM sent.

The object of applying a resist is not to resist the whole thing but to only resist specific detail areas that you want to stand out from the rest. It is a waste of time to resist an entire piece of leather as there is no color variance to the finished look. If you want an entire piece lighter just use a lighter color and continue to apply overall. In the image that you provided, the intended resist section should have been the stamped area with the remaining "untouched" section being left to absorb the whole depth of color (you could also reverse that by resisting the unstamped area and not the stamped area to get a different tonal look).

If you are making things for your own use then it doesn't matter what you would charge for it because you obviously aren't going to buy it from yourself. This information is directed at those who are making things for other people, not themselves/personal use. If you were to start getting requests from others who see your new leather gear though you would find yourself sitting in this same boat and wondering what to charge for it and that is when you can gain some insight from what we have provided as a response to the question.

And this is how it starts; it did for me over 40 years ago and I have also taken my work overseas (stationed in Germany from 82 to 95) and made things while I was there. I now have wallets, belts, and even some saddles and Rodeo gear (yup, did that too) littered around the world. I do maintain one major rule now though and that is: all carved & tooled works are by custom order only now because it just ain't worth the time to make a bunch up for "show and tell" anymore; just have may picture portfolio now and it does what it is supposed to do, get customers. Keep up the good looking works and don't hesitate to share some more with us.

First, using things like Mop n Glo, which aren't intended to be used for such things as leather finishing, won't yield anything positive for you; this is why there are specific products that have been developed for leather work. You have to remember that Super Sheen is a water based product so it won't hold up as well to things that have a spirit based formula; just simple chemistry there. Although Resolene will give you some resist factor it must be applied FULL STRENGTH and not in any other watered down blend. If you want to get the most positive results from your resisting attempts you need to consider going to one of the lacquers, such as Clear-Lac, which is available from Springfield Leather. This is the same product that we all once knew as Neat-Lac (for those of us who have been working with leather that long) and it has always produced the best and most consistent results. Another tip would be that to get the most eye popping results from a resist you might want to consider using your darker colors (Sheridan Brown is not one of them, it barely even adds much color as it is) and always make sure that everything has set and cured no less than 8 hours before moving on to the next step (apply resist, set aside and wait for it to properly set, apply Antique). I have been doing this for over 40 years and have never had a resist attempt not work for me so it is in the product mix and the process that you find the failures. There will be some chime in about being a purist but the reality is that this trade and craft requires a bit of traditional purity to get the results that you are looking for and to not follow the written flow of such activities (and this is all written down in many places by many workers and masters) will result in a failed attempt and wasted time and materials.

I can get a single side of H.O. 11 to 12 oz. (or any other weight) for a maximum of $7.95/sft from a supplier; this is the same price that you would be paying per square foot if you ordered it direct from H.O. on their purchase plan. And this price is for the A grade. I also know that you will be pay a premium for B grade from Springfield Leather. I am in this as a business so every dollar invested into inventory has to be spent wisely; this is where the establishment of wholesale accounts is key and you don't have to be a big business to get the good pricing.

There have been several within these forums recently that have had some issues with the consistency and quality of W&C leather, the OP here is just one of many to have posted about this. I have been user of H.O. for a very long time and have also used leather from W&C and Horween and have found that they are all comparable. I prefer H.O. because they are extremely high quality (the A grade, but their other grades are also very clean and nice to work with), they have always been consistent in their appearance and performance, and they are not as high priced as several have been making them out to be. If you order direct from the tannery then you will be required to make a purchase of a minimum number of hides as per their policies but you can get their leather from other suppliers for equal to the tanner rates as long as you establish a wholesale account with that supplier (if they offer one that is). I have never had an issue with H.O. and would, as a minimum, say that it stands equal to W&C. Tandy used to have one helluva fine veg-tan awhile back, their Live Oak line, it was the standard by which others were judged but they had to go ruin that idea and started supplying the lesser quality leathers that are now tanned out of country in pursuit of higher profits; one of the many things that supports the idea that they have long since lost their way in our craft. We all have to make our choices on what we use and who we get it from but we also have to be open to the potential of other options if the need arises. In the case of the OP here it was quite obvious that the leather he had received was less than acceptable and should not have been selected based on what his needs/requirements were (which he instructed them in). His provided image also supports the fact that W&C has some consistency issues as the OP has been using their product and noticed it himself. I have tried others and always go back to what has been consistent in quality, appearance, and results; just the way proper business really operates.

Who did you get this pattern from? Sounds to me like the creator needs to do a little more detail explanation on how their product is supposed to come together. I can try to help you with it, as long as it isn't in a foreign language (aside from German).

No worries! If you are a businessman then you need to think and act like one and I, as a businessman, would have had that thing on a return trip within a couple of hours of seeing it. Customer service may not be happy about having to arrange for a return but if customer service had actually been considered when your order was pulled, verified, inspected, and packed then that conversation would not have even happened. I always explain to people that Customer Service departments exist today because we stopped providing customer service during the sales process; if you provide quality customer service then you shouldn't have to create a department to handle the complaints. Kind of solves itself.