NVLeatherWorx

I don't do work for anyone else's benefit and I can guarantee you that he will benefit from this more than you will. I agree with everyone else in that you pretty much know the answer to your question, you just have to decide whether or not to act on that and move on. And to clear the air on the idea of Social Media, it is not the big business boon that it is made out to be; it is just another place for people to go and "kick the tires" to see what is out there but it doesn't really result in huge increases of revenue or profit unless you have a bunch of money to dump into the platform marketing campaigns (and those don't really net an increase of income, they just result in more "followers" who don't buy).

I too use Grey Ghost Graphics and have not had an issue with his product. Laser cut/formed on heavy-duty Delrin and he is fast about it.

Contrary to popular belief you do not need to bring your price down just because the "going rate" may below where you have your price calculated at in order to compete. The main thing about figuring out YOUR pricing is to compare your end product to that of what you see around you and if it is of a better quality in craftsmanship and your materials are better then you deserve to make the higher price your line to go with; conversely, if your product is of lesser materials and you are still quite new to the craft and it shows in your work then you won't be able to garner that nicer price point. You are not competing with everyone who makes a leather wallet (or whatever it is that you are pricing) just because they make them; we can all find thousands of examples of leather wallets that are relatively similar in look yet when you really take a good look at them you start seeing all of the flaws or finer points that either make them lower quality or higher quality in the overall scheme of things. You have to figure out where you fit into the price ladder and don't think that you can't get more for your product than the other guy.

Looks to be from Asia so give Goods Japan a look.

Hey Gary, If you end up with some samples I would give it a try and provide you some honest critique against my standard thread (Tiger). I have done many studies/comparisons of products over the years for various items so I know where to go with the data/information that is crucial to a designer when trying to bring something new to market. Many, many moons ago I was making custom fit and made golf clubs for people, even some big names (can't share them though) and I was always being "entertained" by the many clubhead designers and manufacturers to give their product a try. I was able to provide great feedback on these items because of my professionally trained skills on golf club performance characteristics as well as the fact that I am a Professional Golfer (semi-retired now) and could put the clubs through the wringer to get some results that you wouldn't get from other sources or methods. I would also let the rep's know what I thought about the clubs/components and whether or not there was a market for what they were trying to target (each ability group has a different set of specifications that applies to their abilities). If there was an item that I put on the top of the list and it provided better results than what I was currently working with I would add it to my program, regardless of what the cost was. I use the same methods of testing and evaluation for leather craft related products and with my over 40 years of hands-on experience and formal training/education I know how to properly evaluate whether or not there is an improvement over a currently used product or not and I would give you honest and fair results. Keep me posted on where you are going and we will see what comes up down the road.

So far everyone has hit the key points and concerns I believe so I won't repeat any of that. But, for the future, if you are going to be doing leather work around a toddler might I suggest that you purchase some water-based products so that this will not be an issue down the road? Fiebing's makes a complete line of Low VOC and water-based products that are much better than any of the competitors out there and they have been doing much longer as well; when you are purchasing foreign based supplies you are at the mercy of the suppliers (from all levels) as to whether or not you are really getting what you purchased. For example, the bottle that you have displayed for us is in English and French so it is obvious that it comes from a Canadian supply line. However, you may end up finding that this product was actually made in China or one of the other Asian nations for distribution overseas and that could lead down a totally different path when it comes to the chemical composition. Canada typically has some pretty detailed safety rules in place much like the U.S. does but once you start pulling product from Asian, South American, or former Soviet satellite nations you will find that a large portion of their content is much less safe because they don't have as restrictive manufacturing processes; it is all about the money first and safety is way down the list. Not meant to slam anyone or any foreign nation, this is just the reality of global business and the supply chains.

If you were to pursue this I feel that you would have tough slog of it, especially trying to get your product into the hands of the Makers like myself. We have spent many years working with the various products that are out there once we find that one that is like our "Golden Ring" we stick with it; we rely on the quality, consistency, and customer service that we have received from our suppliers and unless they lose their mind and flip the company upside down we are committed to them as much as they are us. Regarding your numbers that though you were pretty close to what I am getting it for; I actually pay about $34.95 for the spool and the shipping is not that much more, the $.06 per yard is actually rounded up to the whole penny though. I use the 0.80 and 1.0 as you stated. I have tried a couple of other very good products from right here in the U.S. and they are pretty good but still can't deliver the results that I am accustomed to providing my clients and that is why I stick with the Ritza line. The other products I have tested are available to me for the same cost per yard as what I get Tiger Thread for but in much smaller spool availability. I carry 6 Tiger Thread colors at all times as my core threads and will make a special color purchase every once in awhile. The cost isn't the primary concern for us businessmen, it is the quality and consistency of the product for the cost that makes the difference so the biggest hurdle that exists is the quality and consistency first; I don't mind paying a bit more for a product if it is superior to what I am using now and that is where you will find your direction to try and win over the discerning leather worker. I wish you luck in your research and information gathering and keep us posted as to where it goes.

And don't forget to make sure that you have buffed off all of the residual pigments from the Pro Dye, buff until you don't see any color removal on your buffing cloth. If your leather is dry and buffed out your top seal will work every time.

Just in case it was missed, always lay your stitching (or lacing) line on the OUTSIDE of your project before punching anything as it is the side that is seen most and sets the first impression for all. Also, don't punch all the way through with the pricking iron/diamond punch because if you don't hold it perfectly straight and vertical that you will never be able to go through all of the layers to meet an equal distance from you edge on both sides. It is much better, and easier in the long run, to just punch through your first layer (your exterior layer) and then use a sharp stitching awl to go through the rest of them. Regarding edges, I only burnish and finish the edges of the thinner leathers and once the whole thing is together I will sand, edge, burnish, and then finish with leather dye (edge paint is too clumpy and it gives an edge a fake look in my opinion). Hope this clears up some of your questions.

For clarification are you using the Resolene or the Super Sheen for the resist? Your original question leads one to believe that you used the Super Sheen and then finished with the Resolene. Once you apply your resist you are in essence sealing the pores of the resisted areas which is what limits the color penetration from being as bold as the unresisted areas. After you have all of your coloring finished and buffed out properly so there is no residual, you can apply whatever you want as your final seal and it will do its intended job regardless of what you have done up to that point (in other words, it will even protect those areas that have been resisted).

First of all, the thinner the leather the more risk you have of seeing the edge curl and also the shrinkage; this is true whether you have cased it or merely given the moisture from the dye/stain. It helps immensely to oil it before you dye it but be very careful because the thinner the leather the quicker it can become TOO conditioned and feel spongy. Everything you do with the thinner leathers is compounded because you are only dealing with the uppermost surface of the leather and the bulk of the more woven fibers has been removed. I only use 2 to 3 oz. for my interior parts (pockets, flaps, etc.) and the thinnest that I will use for a back (exterior) is 3 to 4 oz. but it will end up getting a lining. My normal go to weight is 4 to 5 oz. for things like wallets, card cases, phone cases, etc. and I have been very successful with this over the past 40 years or so. The type of leather also makes a big difference (goat, sheep, cow, pig, etc.) as each type of animal has a different cellular structure and natural fat content in the skin with lamb, goat, and pig being the highest; this lends itself to absorbing too much moisture when applied and then rolling and wrinkling as it dries so you need to place a weight over these things as they are doing so. I place mine under one of my 5 granite slabs so they dry flat and also don't get a chance to shrink. Hope this helps clear some of it up for you.

I have a feeling that you won't be able to get to 1/2 the cost of what I am getting from Germany (Ritza 25 Tiger Thread), I get it for about $.06 per yard and that is INCLUDING the shipping costs being broken out. Besides, it sounds like you are just trying to provide the same thing that we get from the Tiger Thread which is already a very popular thread among the quality professional craftsmen. Here is wishing you luck though and hopefully you can pull it off.

If you have access to a local Tandy store then you can pick up some of their stainless steel snaps, problem here is that they require totally different setting tools. You are most likely looking for a small amount so Tandy may be your best option. If you are looking for larger amounts then get in touch with The Buckle Guy (www.buckleguy.com) and get some solid brass snaps. Most belts are made with the line 24 snaps. I don't use snaps on my belts because they wear out; I only use Chicago screws.

If you can't purchase a side then I highly recommend that you start looking at using pre-cut belt strips for your bag straps. For a bag that is relatively small and lightweight and is not intended to carry much weight you can get away with no less than a 6 to 7 oz. strap; majority of your bags should use a 7 to 8 oz. or 8 to 9 oz. strap so as to ensure that there is no stretch or undue stress applied to any portion of it. I use 8 to 9 oz. (standard belt strap weight) for all of the straps on the bags that I make; haven't had any complaints yet. I only use the 6 to 7 oz. straps for retro-fit/repair of the high end designer bags (I average at least one high end bag repair per month and it is always to have the garbage straps replaced with quality leather).

Putting webbing on a nice leather bag is like putting water into the gas tank of a fine sports car - just ain't right.

Buckle Guy Ohio Travel Bag Tandy All three carry magnets that are pretty darn powerful; they are used to make money clips.

You nailed it my friend. I have been explaining to new people that I have to train in a work environment that is mechanically demanding and I always make it very clear that even though we have seen evolution in the technology behind how we design and build things, we have lost the true knowledge and experience of how to think on our feet and work through the issues that arise while on the task at hand. We have become technologically advanced but our ability to use our minds to achieve the great things that mankind has been able to do throughout history is no longer there. The best example of this can be found in the design and construction of the Great Pyramids; with all of our technology today we are unable to replicate the process or results to even think about trying to build that same structure. Experience is probably the best determining factor in one's successes but knowledge, when truly understood and applied, gives you the direction you need to go to gain that experience.

Thanks for your response; I have been contemplating on whether or not to give them a try with some of my own designs but I wanted to make sure that their materials are solid. I have had some made by others and was not impressed with the results. From what I can see from their website they have a heck of an operation going and it is nice to know that they have a quality product as well.

Did you purchase the acrylic template set from Make-Supply Leather or just go with the paper version for now? Kind of curious as to how well their acrylic templates are; seem to be solid but have seen some acrylic versions (from other sources) that were not all that great.

I have found a supplier of small zippers for smaller projects like this one. I ordered 50 zippers from her for about $0.21 per zipper and they are perfect; needed them at 4" and they are spot on. I actually a make a wallet like this that uses them and I have now tossed all of my zipper making supplies because it was taking up space. Found here on Etsy and she has a several sizes that you typically can't find in the common market.

That Rogue Wallet design is not anything new; Tandy Leather had this in their line-up a few years back (even before the Minimalist movement) and it is now available as a downloadable PDF from their Leathercraft Library (I have an original design sheet for this very item). By the way, they have it registered with a copyright so Rogue might want to be careful with pushing anyone else too hard about design infringement. That little pointy end is supposedly intended to make it easier to remove the wallet from your pocket; supposedly the rounded end limits any corners from getting snagged.

The outer edge of the holster has been laced with a double whip stitch, as has been previously pointed out. The decorative "tab" on the front is indeed a Blood Knot, and the "lanyard" is a simple flat braid. All of these can be easily executed with some basic knowledge that can be found all over the internet. The type of lace used for the outer edge and the lanyard appears to be a 1/8" Natural lace, maybe calf or could be Roo lace; Blood Knots are typically done with either latigo lace or created with lighter weight harness/latigo leathers for the larger designs (this one would fit that bill well).

Been a long time since I have visited this place and posted but here I go. I have been, and still am, an H.O. supporter and have not had any issues with their leather. I get all of mine from The Hide House (www.hidehouse.com) in Napa, CA and it costs MUCH less than SLC or anyone else, even with my wholesale pricing as a business operator. In fact, my average price per square foot for H.O. is $7.95 and so far every side that I have purchased from them has not had any issues in the usable portion of the hide. You will always have the clamp marks and some rough areas around the edges and that applies to all suppliers and tanners but foot prints and the other stuff, not even a hint of them.

Personally, if I were to be starting any kind of a leather company then I would probably make sure that I actually had some experience in the trade so that I didn't come off as just another person looking to make bank on the hard work and skills of others who aren't going to be properly compensated anyway for their time, materials, and skills. RockyAussie does some very beautiful work and I can be very sure that there would be nowhere near the proper, or fair, intent to compensate him for that work. I really am not a fan of those who wish to make money on our work while selling it as theirs (which is always the case so far). If you want to be in the leather business then learn how to make the things that you want to sell. It is that simple.