NVLeatherWorx

If the Horween leather is that waxy/oily you might want to check with Horween to see what they recommend before you go ruining anything. They do produce some leathers that clearly state that they CANNOT be glued to anything else; which also means that if you DO attempt to cement it to another piece of leather and it fails (which Horween says it will) they have no responsibility for later claims against them and you have no recourse to return product. Understanding of how each type of leather is INTENDED to be used versus what your personal intentions are is a whole subject area within the leather working trade and a very vital area that more should attempt to participate in. You can't use every type of leather to make everything that you want as some just don't work. Nature of doing business. It is also best to contact the manufacturer/tannery regarding the use of their supplied products as they would know best what does and does not work with their products.

I have never had it crack, flake, or peel on a belt nor any other item either. I have found that spray/aerosol versions of things do not work as well as the hand applied versions do; it may have something to do with the propellant itself causing the lacquer to start drying immediately before contact with the leather. Or you just got a bad batch of product (which does happen).

The lacquer products don't do too well over anything acrylic that has been applied as a full coating as it doesn't have anything porous to get into. I have never used the spray version as I have always used the Neat-Lac version which is applied via sheep's wool; never had any problems with is in over 40 years. It is actually called Clear-Lac now but it is the same product as the original, just a different name now.

And you just keep right on posting these beautiful things here; this is the marketplace for such things and it ain't like you are posting an entire website worth of merchandise. They are indeed beautiful and well worth what you have asked for.

Don't know where you are located but if it is in the U.S. you can get this very product from any Lowe's store, located on the same aisle as their spray paints and other such items (typically).

And can we please let this topic die now? It has become the old "whipping the dead horse" thing and we should probably move on to more constructive things.

No offense intended here grumpyold but if you aren't in the business of making money from the leather goods, or associated items, that you make you should not be commenting on the products and pricing of those who do. That is kind of like giving a review of a product that you actually never purchased or even used and hammering it the entire time; it just ain't right. There are several of us who make money doing this at various levels and the first thing that came to mind when I saw your first post to tell you to butt out, but I held my tongue to see what others would say. You are correct that this community is for the exchange of information and sharing of knowledge but it is also open to those who have things that they want to sell or buy as long as they follow the rules and conduct that business in the right place; we have seen several of these over time and that isn't about to change anytime soon. We all know that materials cost different prices but for a person who actually has the refined skills and techniques to make a highly valuable and upscale version of an item is something that deserves to be rewarded so, if a person wants to just give things away for a couple bucks over cost or they are a with a higher skill set that produces quality works with high-quality materials they can charge what they think is fair. The market will determine if the price is too high and, from this example, it appears that it was quite acceptable to many and they weren't opposed to paying for the skills and quality that went into the product. I am sure that you may sell a wallet for around $15 to $20 whereas I will sell something similar for around $65+; my pricing is based on my materials (which don't come from low end suppliers) and the skill, expertise, and techniques that go into making it (over 40 years of experience in this trade) while balancing it with intelligent pricing strategies and I don't have any problems selling at this price because the quality of craftsmanship and materials is appreciated by those who become my clients. Just the way business works and it always has. I think it is only fair to say here that what a person sells their products for is not for anyone else to question or attempt to break down, especially if they aren't conducting business at the same level as those who are being "questioned" about their pricing. Again, no intention to offend but there is a time and place for comments and yours was out of place here on this one.

Guess I will add my offering to the list. Here is a Western Classic II shoulder bag that I made back in 1981, it is all original with the exception of the clasp as those do tend to wear out over time. It is still in use today and is much darker than it was when originally made (I did an application of Neutral Antique and it has aged to the point where it is actually approaching Dark Brown now). The entire back panel is also full of Oak Leaf & Acorn tooling and the lacing is a Triple-Loop stitch. Total time of 40 hours into the whole thing with 14 of it on the lacing alone. I was still in High School when I made this one.

There is nothing wrong with asking a question when you can't find the answer to what you are looking for; the most common thing going though is that the same questions are being asked over and over again instead of doing a little bit of homework and research (basic search run) which really doesn't imply that the one asking that question is really trying to learn. Learning and sharing in an environment like ours is vital to ensuring that the new leather worker has a chance to gain knowledge but it is also very important to ensure that those who are truly wanting to learn get taken care of versus that once in awhile lurker who just wants a quick response without trying to find the information. The amount information contained within this community is enough to publish several books so there is no reason for the same thing to asked on a daily basis; a little bit of patience and a desire to research a topic is all that is needed and it doesn't cost you anything. If this information was published it would cost a fortune. It isn't about the number of times a person posts because forums are full of people who post all of the time; the content of the post is what matters and here the content is predominantly informative and educational, as it should be.

Well, it looks like the motorcycle gloves and vests that were taking up all of the header space have been removed. I even got an error message half-way through browsing the profile of that business from Pakistan that posted his product catalog that I could no longer view that information. Did someone pull the plug on that account? Amazing!

You have all hit the nail on the head and it is for that reason that I have asked the Admin's what it would take for me to close this account as I have not time for this anymore. I have asked twice and have not even received a response from them over the past 2 weeks now. If I am going to spend my time trying to help a new leather worker out then I want it to be spent working with someone who is actually interested in this trade and not just someone who wants everyone to do the thinking and designing and everything else for them; if you want to learn then do it but don't waste out time to do it for you. Who knows, maybe I might get a response finally.

Actually, wholesale pricing is traditionally intended to support the licensed business operator as a professional courtesy and not just the volume buyer. The problem here is that when a seller sets an annual volume for their business customers they are no longer providing you with wholesale pricing, they are recognizing your purchasing history with discounts AFTER you have met their volume amount which is nothing more than a "customer appreciation" rate. To charge an annual fee to those who don't meet that volume is nothing more than an annual membership; you don't get charged that from any other supplier. Aside from discounted pricing after achieving volume what else do they give you? Nothing. Use Amazon as an example and their Prime program; you pay the annual fee and you get perks for it, show me the perks from Weaver (or anywhere else that charges you for access to their product) beyond the regular sales price. There aren't any. So, that is not wholesale pricing, it is (at best) Member pricing. I am looking forward to the day that Costco starts selling leather so my membership has that much more value to me (but we know that won't be happening).

Amen! Let's just move on to something a bit more important than someone's bad experience with a supplier. We have all had ours but it doesn't need to be the news tag of the Century here.

Most pre-dyed leather isn't veg-tanned (which is the ONLY leather that is suited for stamping or carving & tooling) and from what you are describing you have one of those pieces that ISN'T intended to be stamped or decorated. It is most important to first learn about the ways leather is tanned and which tanning method results in how each type of leather is used before you go spending ANY money on leather, even scraps, for test/practice purposes. This basic information is available everywhere and will save your "hide" (little leather joke there) before you make an expensive mistake. Do yourself a huge favor and start researching leather and how it is tanned and used and you will be a much better craftsman for doing so. To learn how to work with leather you must read and research everything there is out there, otherwise you are just wasting your time and then wasting others by asking why something doesn't work when you could have known for yourself. This is a very common thing with new leather workers and you don't want to be in that group.

Don't go by that type of tracking information, it is always inaccurate regardless of who you are purchasing from. I have placed orders with SLC that indicated that the Postal Service hadn't picked up the package yet after 2 days and had it in my mailbox 2 days later; I get the same thing with Amazon and everywhere else.

Buckel Guy carries Tiger Thread as well and in larger spools than you can typically find elsewhere.

You always want to condition the leather to replace any oils that may be drawn out during handling, the best product for this is Pure Neatsfoot Oil (no compounds, they have way too many chemicals in them). The application of dyes/stains will be no problem, just apply your oil after the coloring has dried properly and you should be okay. Be careful not to overdo the oil though as it will turn the leather into a soggy, stretchy mess and it won't work too well as a drive belt. There should also be no cracking, just make sure that you maintain the conditioning of the belt over the time of its use.

Takes about 25 minutes, including "punching" the holes. I suffer from Arthritis in my hands (all those years as a combat soldier getting your hands smashed one way or another) and can still pull it off without the pain taking over. If you are doing just a plain wallet (no stamping/tooling) then you can get away with using 3/4 oz. for the back and 2/3 oz. for interior parts. I use the "T" style pocket design so that the edges (all of them) are not overly thick. Just an FYI though: the thinner the leather, the easier it is for something to slip out of place and create an issue. It appears that you are trying to create what could be considered as a "designer" style product; if you ever have the chance to take a close look at those high-end/high-priced designer wallets you will notice that they aren't very perfect looking either, you just get confused by the all of the "bling" effect items which distract you from the reality that it isn't all that great looking when you focus on it. Don't give up on wallets as this seems to be the market for the time being; it is about 80% of my business right now so that is what I am focusing on.

The first thing is that if you want a good finish that will last don't use ANY of the Eco-Flo products, they don't have any staying power and there are plenty of questions just like yours that have multiple responses saying this very same thing; go to quality products that are spirit based (Fiebing's for example) that will penetrate deep into the leather and stay there where they belong. When it comes to color/shading it is all in how much you apply, the less you apply the lighter the results. If you are looking for unique tone techniques then it is time to start reading up on how to use dyes, stains, Antiques, and all of the other finishes; we all did it this way and there aren't any real shortcuts here when it comes to creating quality looks. And by all means, test, test, test, until you get what you are looking for; great way to put some of that scrap box clutter to work for you.

Pricing is the part of the process that you need to find yourself comfortable with establishing. If you are out to do this as a business then you need to think like a business and take EVERYTHING into consideration when setting your prices. For example, you have your materials, supplies, time, shipping/postage, shop expenses (rent, water, electric, etc.), and everything else that goes into making that one product/item. Now you have to add in any profits that you are looking to take in (and this requires you to think like a very serious business) and this all comes together to help you lay out your pricing. If you plan on actually taking some of the sales for your own (paying yourself for your time) then you have to make sure that you are taking a fair wage for yourself which means that is what your labor costs will include (aside from the traditional labor expenses of taxes, payroll fees, insurance/benefits, etc.) as part of the equation. If you have product that is unique and not widely available/distributed then you have a better chance at setting your pricing higher as you have no real competition for the sales. Bottom line is this: if you are in it to be profitable then make sure that you are selling for that in mind; if it is just a hobby then don't worry too much about what you should charge (most hobby sellers set their pricing at just a slight little bit, less than 20%, over the cost of materials) as it doesn't matter if you make money or not, you are just doing it for the fun of it. If your product/items are available then do some research into what others are charging and compare yours (quality, style, appearance) to theirs and if yours looks better you can go higher than theirs, if not go lower. There is an abundance of makers selling full-time that put out some pretty cruddy looking work yet have their stuff listed at prices that are above the quality that they put out and they are still selling hand over fist; if you have something better then make money on it and when asked what makes yours better than the other guy? Just let them know that your product is superior throughout and has been made with quality, design, and aesthetics in mind (it looks beautiful when compared to the lesser versions).

Buckle Guy doesn't have minimums, unless you want to get some pricing breaks that is. If you are just looking for some single item orders then just stick with paying way too much at a local Tandy store. Wholesale/quantity purchases are where see the benefit of working with a supplier that has a wide range of products and/or options; looking for the smaller amounts is best kept at a lesser capable store level.

That minimum is per order but once you start getting the supplies that you will go through it doesn't take much to get to that number; there is no annual requirement with them. By plain I am assuming that you are talking about the simple belt clip style? Those are not for money clip use even though you may see some labeled as such or used as such; they are worthless for this use and have no use as a belt clip either as they are not very rigid or strong. I only use the flip-clip style and the spring loaded bar clips for fold over type money clip wallets.

Those items (Dr. Who, Mickey Mouse, etc.) are all protected items as the images and anything attached to them as is stated in their registration and copyright filings so ANYONE who makes an item that contains anything of that nature is in violation of U.S. Federal Code and is subject to imprisonment, a fine, or both and these are indeed enforced very stringently within out court system. You would not believe the number of people who have found themselves standing in front of a Judge for making an item that included the Harley Davidson logo (just one example, this is the case for ALL Trademarked and Copyrighted images/logos, and writings); it is common here in my area and yet there is still those who think that they won't get caught, that is until they bring their stuff out for sale at a local craft fair or other such event and find themselves being shut down. I know of people who have lost everything they own just because they thought that they could get away with it, WRONG!

Here are the item links: Flip-Clip Money Clip at Springfield Leather: http://springfieldleather.com/?ck=xUQw_etHAs_7p0zT&vid=b2XHhCklAmaR-u3B&cktime=149339&cart=4431&promocode=&promocodeaction=overwrite&shipmeth=18398&gc=clear&chrole=14&fragment=/Money-Clip-Flip-Np Flip-Clip Money Clip at Ohio Travel Bag: https://ohiotravelbag.com/products/item/65f591e3-b8a9-4418-8b91-b9ebc85907c2/C-1816 For Ohio Travel Bag you will need to register for a Wholesale Account first and then you can place an order, minimum order amount is $30 for them; Springfield has no minimum.

The one on the left is actually a holster clip so it is pretty much set in its shape and usefulness; for the one on the right (that is actually a money clip) there are plenty of sources: Springfield Leather Tandy Leather Ohio Travel Bag and I am sure that there are many others. For bulk, you might want to go with Springfield or Ohio Travel Bag as their pricing is much better than Tandy. And, just for the record, they all get their hardware from the same source so you decide how much you want to pay for them. The leather is easy to cut your self and there is no reason to purchase it as a pre-cut kit as you end up paying way too much for them that way and half the time you will find that not one single piece lines up with the next one.