Cyberthrasher

I've always wanted to try an angled blade for some of the really small and tight curves I end up making, but practice has made me pretty proficient with the straight blade in places that I just couldn't fathom doing it before. But, I did just get a ceramic angled blade in a tool purchase, so I'm going to have some fun pushing my limits on that tiny stuff. I still recommend the straight blade though. Just seems a lot more versatile to me.

In terms of swivel knives, the BK isn't too expensive. I was asking the same questions when it was time to upgrade and found that a lot of the seasoned pros recommend a 5/8 barrel and 3/8 straight blade. This will be similar in size to a Tandy, but they are a LOT more comfortable to my big hands. I would also start with the "thick" blade since it will be more of a all around cut. You can always get the other blades later as you need them.

Thanks, there was some good stuff in there I could use. If there's anything I don't really need I'll post them up here.

I'm pretty sure these are his patterns on his own website. I can see myself using a few of those for various things. I'll have to download them next time I'm in front of the big screen at home. Jim, I just read the pattern use agreement on your page and you might want to update that to state leatherwork as an acceptable use. Right now it says I'm only allowed to use your patterns for the sole purpose of "scroll sawing"

I'm not much for that style, but it's beautiful. I'm sure they'll both love it.

Well, if you consider an average of $5 - $10 per stamping tool, I'd say you made out pretty good with just those alone. Who knows what else is under there Now, if only I can find more of this stuff in my ebay searches.

Very nice Ed. I have troubles with 1 or 2 dilutions of color. I still can't imagine doing that many different shades without giving it all up for good!!

I've read some comments here before that it just wasn't that great. I've tried their edge kote and would only recommend that to complete a collection of fiebings products. It's really not good for anything that I can find. So far for me the best method is to follow Bob Park's edge finishing guide and just use regular oil dye on the edges.

I don't know how neatlac responds to Cova, but I put it over all my pro-oil dyes and it's just fine.

I thought that's why he offered to send her with them!

What kind of things do you like? I'm assuming it's a wallet for yourself, so what would scream "Phil" I usually like to check out shutterstock.com for ideas when I'm just messing around. I also have purchased a few images from them to use for customer work.

My feeble understanding is that they are essentially the same, but they've added oil to the Pro Oil series to make it penetrate better or something. I need to try out some of the plain spirit dyes though so I can save some of the time I spend on color matching.

I don't know why I put "Spirit dyes" on there - too much multi-tasking. I meant to just leave that at Fiebing's and call it good. But, you're right that a lot of people use them and technically the Pro Oil dyes are still spirit based, so it works either way

Tons of better stuff out there. For your wallet guts, you just need some light weight leather, about 1 - 2 oz. Look for "lining leathers" I prefer Springfield leather for all my stuff and they can help you find exactly what you need in the exact amount you need. Just give them a call and one of the girls there were be able to help you out with whatever you need. For your dyes, get away from the Tandy Eco-Flo and Super Sheen. Some of the best dyes out there are Fiebing's spirit dyes. I prefer the Professional Oil variety, but there are lots of other options as well. As for your SuperSheen issue, I'm assuming you're attempting to use it as a resist as mentioned in the starter kits. So far I'm really liking Fiebing's Resolene mixed 50/50 with water for that because I can spray it on pretty nicely. It's also a good general top-coat. I actually use ClearLac as well (formerly known as Neatlac), but it just depends on whether I want to spray the finish on or not when I decide which to use. Also, pick up some scrap bags from whichever place you shop (I still recommend Springfield for everything). You'll see an immediate improvement in your tooling once you get some good leather that hasn't been treated with funky chemicals to preserve it in the box.

Yeah, what he said!!!!

Not a clue. But, if you find out - LET ME KNOW!!!! For some reason good brass is extremely hard to find in my area.

Yeah, me and my buddy started talking earlier about all the old stuff we have too. He's a pretty big Automag fan and we basically came to the same conclusion that it's a regulator itself. I'm a huge fan of Bob Long guns, so that's what most of my collection is. But, I have a cocker I've been wanting to make a pump out of as well. I've only been out to play once this year since I started getting a lot of orders. It's funny this conversation started up because I've been meaning to get my two 3000 PSI scuba tanks filled up and figure out a regulator system to be able to use them for airbrushing if I get a case of insomnia . Although, I could use my marker tanks too when I consider that I run through about 100 PSI in 5 minutes while airbrushing. That might give me at least an hour on a 65/3K

Uhm. it's a little off topic, but I have a wall full of paintball guns with a high pressure regulator in line up to a low pressure regulator - all fed from a regulator on the tank. That goes for both my HPA firing markers and CO2. The only markers that don't have regulators are the cheap beginner Wal Mart guns.