artycpt

I honestly don't even remember which one I used. It basically just takes my Etsy shop and posts is all on my facebook page as a "shop". I definitely don't utilize facebook to the full potential and end up doing a lot of custom work that comes from direct contacts so I haven't really noticed anything helpful about having this on facebook and haven't made any sales from items I have in the shop. Overall I don't do much of anything with it or to maintain it. It just shows up so I didn't need a tutorial or anything. I am interested to hear what other people use though.

Thanks for the input everybody. I think I found the technique now. Ended up finding some obscure youtube video (that I can find again but remember the process). @electrathon: If I ever get the chance to head to Portland I will definitely try to meet up with you guys.

depending on the size of the leater you want to add the clasp to, you may be able to use what is called a "ribbon clasp". They are small clasps that you crimp down and come in various sizes. Usually also found in the "findings" area.

I know I have seen it explained around here somewhere but my ninja search skills are failing me. does anybody have a good explanation for how to do a douple loop lacing with two different colors of lace woven together??

Thank you. Overall it is kind of a cool material with lots of possabilities. Once you get a light layer of enamal or acrylic on it you can shape and form it kind of like kydex. It would probably work really well for a different look and style for holsters or auto or motorcycle accessories. May have to experiment with it more...

Having just completed a thin ID wallet using carbon fiber material I can tell you one thing. Until you seal that stuff in some way, the weave is pretty delicate and pulls apart pretty easily. Tape the back. And when you do, don't try to adjust anything. I made the below wallet with a 2-3oz piece of leather covered in carbon fiber then edged with goat. Initially I thought I would assemble the whole thing then seal the carbon fiber in some way. Found out it is much easier to cut the peice to size, then spray a clear laquer over the top to keep it flixible but also protect and seal it, then asseble the whole thing. Just figured I would share with you all, I am sure some one has much more experience with this material than I do.

I pretty much do the same as Electrathon described. Although I do have to say that I have made them differently. I have noticed that bibles range in size so I always try to have the bible in hand prior to construction. I have made them out of all one piece with interior flaps or three peices (front, back and binding) with the binding overlapping the front about an inch. I agree that you need to make them a little oversized so that you can open and close them easily. The most form fitted one I have made I actually sewed the outside shell together first then wet the leather and sewed the interior flaps on with the bible in place. I did this for a very form fitted cover where the interior flaps covered the entire inside up to the pages.

hmmmmm. I have been planning on attempting a mask for a while now. This may just be the time to figure it out.

So here I am sitting around and thinking.......has anyone used leather cord to stitch with? Just curious. Thanks.

One more for blackriver Great to work with. The font on my makers stamp didn't come out very well from the image I sent and they reworked it with a better font and sent me both stamps. Awesome customer service.

That is incredible!! Almost makes me want to try to make something myself.......almost

That's awesome. The subtlety of the backgroundin on the jug is super cool!!

I have some old vinegaroon that I use from time to time. I find that as stated by Chuck, a little more vinigar and iron will bring it back. Also, heating it some helps rejuvinate the chemical reaction. Before I use it again I heat it up for a little bit then test it. So far (going on about two years now) I just keep adding to it and heating it and it has worked for me.

Just and observation and misc. design note; Not sure of the measurements and fit but a generally good idea if the cards fit all the way down into the holder is to make a small cutout at the top to be able to grab the cards and pull them out easier. Feel free to disregard if your holder works just fine. For a second project it looks good and clean. The details in burnishing and stitching will come with practice. You are off to a great start. Oh and add some snakes with the skulls and flames.

Everybody who answered pretty much has it right on. There are times I won't even bevel the letters that much and just carge them in with my swivel knife and finish with a modeling tool on the outside edge of the letters (shich I guess is kind of bevelling isn't it)

This is great. I am going to be looking for a specific fond set soon. Just need to figure out which size will fit my needs best. Will definitely be contacting you.

I shot cowboy action for a couple years but never mounted. Mounted shooting always looked really cool but not having a horse and there not being many mounted shooting clubs up this way I just never tried it.

Thank you. It is always good to take some time to make something for the family as they always appreciate it and I get to try out new techniques or ideas.

For me it depends on the leather I am using. thinner leather I wet slightly as if I haven't sharpened my edger it helps keep a good clean edge cut. Some softer or thicking (better quality) leather edges just fine without wetting.

OH, and another thing that I totally forgot to mention. In the military (17 years National guard) we use these alchohal markers to write on map overlays and such. They come in permenant and non permenant. They come in a variety of tip sizes as well. I have used both the permenant and non permenant with success and very little wiping off or smearing when a finish coat is applied. Here is a link of an example of the markers: http://www.amazon.com/Markers-NP-Pk-Super-Fine/dp/B007Z7KU60/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1363709682&sr=8-20&keywords=staedtler+marker Those happen to be the non permenant ones but they come in various size packages and types. ALWAYS test it on scrap first. I also let any marker or ink or pen dry for almost 24 hours prior to applying any finish or top coat. May be overkill on my part but it has worked so far so I don't mess with it.

That is a great marketing idea. I need to be more active on my facebook page. I tend to just post completed projects but I like the concept of works in progress and making it interesting for those who view the page.

I have sent you a message. If you haven't found someone to make this for you yet, let me know.

I have only dabbled in this a little bit but I have found that sharpies will work and most will not smear depending on the finish that is applied. The sharpie paint markers seem to work well but they tend to run out very quickly and dealing with the retractable tip thing is a pain. I have also tried some pens used for scrapbooking. I don't remember who makes them but they also work pretty well if you find the right finish to cover them or spray a finish over them. With every color I do regardless of brand I find that I have to test it out first. For example, black sharpie and resolene seemed to work fine but resolene over silver sharpie (the pen not the pain marker) smeared, while over the silver sharpie paint pen it did not smear at all.

I have used a stitch groover for this and as stated, it took a couple of passed to get it deep enough. I then used an edge beveller to widen it out a little. It worked OK. I have also taken the leather and folded it over with the side I wished ti groove showing (hard to describe but basically folded it over the corner of my workbench) then skived the area I wanted to groove. Hope that makes sense.

The key I have found with super sheen is either spray it on or apply it in very light coats. I have used a brush with success with once again, multiple light coats.