bruce johnson

Elton, Very cool use of the hide. Are the gussets hide too? The whole thing is outstanding. Great work amigo. I like your Stamey line also. "Don't forget to stay loose".

I've organized my stamps a few ways, and this has been the easiest for me right now. I used to use old fence post sections with the holes drilled in them. They were cut to fit inside metal tool boxes. It made it handy to keep to keep them upright. That was about it. At that time I was getting a lot of old tool sets and had a lot of stamps. I tried to organize them by type. Problem was I'd get some new ones and have to shift everything around. Then you'd forget to put one back and then there wouldn't be a hole for it. A lot of people can make it work, I can't. It would be easier now that I downsized my stamps. I am attaching some pictures of what I've been doing for the last few years. The stamps are organized by type into individual cups. I drilled a small hole in the bottom and then bent some pegboard hooks to feed up from the bottom and hold them at an angle. When I am sitting the stamps all face out to me so I can see the heads pretty well. Originally I used small plastic juice cups to store them, but the clear color of the cup blended in with the silver finish of the stamps and made it kind of hard to pick them out. The green cups are actually pill vials and the green background makes it easier to see the stamps. The pegboard is to the right of my stamping rock and also holds the swivel knives, mauls, and push beaders and ticklers. In front of the rock is a small wooden block that holds a couple swivel knives and about 20 or so stamps for the ones seeing action on that pattern. As far as setting up beforehand. Sometimes I'll pull out what I know I need and have them ready. Other times I'll pull them as I go. I keep them in the wooden rack until I'm done though. A tip for angling the wooden block - Drill all your holes first in a square block. Then prop up the back upper edge and run it through a band saw - cutting the bottom off at an angle.

Charlie, If the color change is from washing all the grunge off and some of the oil came too, all I can say is good job on that part. That is what I look for and it takes some effort to get there. From that stage I apply something to help restore. I kind of wing it depending on how the leather feels and looks. A kind of routine is a light coat of neatsfoot oil or olive oil and let it even out for a day or so. Maybe some more then depending on how it looks and feels. I like to use a paste over that too. One of my favorites is Hide Rejuvenater from TLF. I also like Williams Australian Saddle Dressing (not Feibing's Aussie). Light coats and keep in a warm room for a day between applications. The Williams buffs up pretty nice as is. If you want a finish, I like a light application of TanKote.

Harvey, Been through northern Illinois (seems like a lot). Mostly blacker mud up there. The cover resembles the mud we see up here to about the 1000 foot elevation. Since it is raining today, I can tell you that with some degree of certainty. Higher than that and it seems to get more reddish. That said, I found the write up on page 32, and unlike some of the other articles, this one actually made it all on one page instead of having snippets scatttered throughout the journal like bread crumbs. The finish was neatsfoot oil followed by Tandy EcoFlow Gel in saddle tan. The final finish was Tan Cote. I like the way the color printed on page 32 better than the cover.

Timely here, I talked to David at the LCSJ earlier about this. He is hoping with his other responsibilities to have something on the Sherdian show schedule in about three weeks. To add to the numbered list above. #4 - get there a day or two early and allow some time to leisurely wander through the Don King Museum, visit Barry King's shop, and Sheridan Leather Outfitters. #5 - I would recommend taking the spouse along. Someone needs to drive back from the King reception or a social gathering at the Mint.

I think rubber is too "grabby" for cutting and punching for the most part. I use HDPE for cutting and LDPE for punching.

Mike, You are looking at the wrong tool. You are describing an angled or straight channeler. They originally were used by boot makers and harness makers with a sharp blade to cut a slit to sew in. The slit was then glued closed to make a hidden stitch. Seems like $30-60 buys most of them. For what you are looking to do, you want a stitch groover. There are a few styles with guides - Bob Douglas makes a unique one, Jeremiah Watt and Osborne make one like a compass with a loop type blade, and TLF makes one with an "L" shaped blade. I like to use one for straps and skirts that is an old shoemakers pattern with a wooden handle and a fence. It has a loop blade and will cut a nice narrow groove as deep as I choose to go. For free hand stitch grooves, some people call them a patent leather tools or gum tool. Jeremiah sells one that is nice. Bob Douglas usually has some on hand.

Unless they are a Salisbury bronc saddle, I'd be pretty leary of them.

Marlon, I guess I am lucky. My wife is a big fan of Bob's bisonette edgers that they make themselves, and I filled in the set too. She has always been encouraging about anything I have bought from Bob Douglas. Bob's prices all depend on maker and condition. I can about guarantee you that you won't get anything from Bob that isn't in the best condition it can be. I just got a care package from Bob today. I got a #5 new wheel in a very pretty old Osborne handle for $70. Some people might choke on that price, but it is tight and pretty and will last my lifetime I am sure. If you need something with some history and don't want the ebay hunt, Bob is the man. My wife also enjoyed the better part of the day we spent with Keith Pommer too and he has some good stuff. She hasn't minded the upgrades from him either.

Three-eighths would be too much for me to spend the time to cover it. I'd check some other measurements like diagonals to see how far out it is in other aspects. I haven't jumped on one or torqued one to square it up so can't help you there. One guy I have talked with would not build on a rawhided tree until it sat for 6 months in his shop to cure. I don't know how other guys handle it, they ususally sit around a while for me too but not for a set reason. I am sure there are trees that warp over time, we've probably all seen that. I think Rod mentioned this in one of his replies a while back, but I have seen it also. I took a tree to a swap deal and it sat on the bedliner of my truck in the summer for a few hours. It was dead on level at my house. After it heated up it had about a scant 3/16" rock. I put it in the guy's shop and within an hour it was level again. Heat will affect one.

Yes, I do have a metal reinforcement, and it is on the backside of this one.

Thanks for the compliments. The color is full strength Feibings British Tan dye.

A couple weeks ago I posted the first holster and got some excellent feedback. End of that week Rhome invited me to his shop and helped me with developing patterns and molding. I was out of the shop for a week, but got the redo finished up last night. It fits much tighter than the first one, the slots are shorter but wider, and it is molded much more. I still would like the stitch line to be a little tighter to the trigger guard, but overall, I am happier with how this one came together. Some of the reflection disorts how it really looks. I used a 3/8 section of dowel for a sight channel, but in the pictures it appears almost pinched. Brutal criticism welcomed.

I've got a couple from Jeremiah. Ask me in a couple days about my new one coming from Bob Douglas. Bob had some wheels made up and put them intro some vintage carriages. If it is anything like Bob's other stuff, ought to be good.

{"I have one case model where it is CRITICAL that the leather match the edges of the endcaps perfectly flush. I can't sand the endcaps to match the leather or it damages the edges of the leather as well as makes the endcap edges uneven. The only solution is to skive or sand or somehow make the last inch of the leather taper to be perfectly flush. But how to do this in a controlled manner is driving me crazy."} If I am reading what you need to do, sounds like a bell kinfe skiver would get the jod done. A one inch taper is no big deal on those with the right presser foot set up.

For a lot of stuff there aren't going to be any published patterns. The principles are in the Stohlman case book series. For the rest of it, you just have to fit, fudge, and swear sometimes unfortunately. Most of the time you have to make up your own zipper. For the pockets and loops it depends on what size pen, how many business cards, and stuff like that.

Fontenot, I've got one of Ron's and of the two madeup ones being sold on any scale, his is way above the other. If you are set on making one, I'd study his for a few things. The way the drawdown works independently of the base is key. You don't change tensions by raising or lowering the stand to get the height you need. You can pivot it around and not have to pick up the whole stand to do it. The part the tree sits into holds the tree pretty well. It is not just a flat board covered with neoprene. His is substantial enough to stay in place. I think his site lists the top and bottom range of travel. Here's a link to his site - Ron's Drawdown Stand.

I am a small animal veterinarian. I did all horse practice originally, and found that equine practitioners never had time for their own horses. Have also worked in a slaughterhouse, shoeing and trimming for fun and profit, and worked for horse trainers.

Another factor to consider for him is weight. It is going to weigh more than his canvas set. The biggest thing for you to consider is pricing. These can take a lot of time to cut and put together if they have many formed pouches. They also tend to eat up more material than you think. The longest wearing ones I have done were made with apron splits. I made my last ones 3 years ago and will never do a set again.

Josh, It looks good, you did the inlay really well. The biggest thing I would change is to shorten up the stitches. Go to a #6 stitch wheel and using a little finer thread will make it look cleaner. Looks like a great job on the cuts inside. Other than that, same congrats as everyone else.

I do it like Bob with the blade over the edge. I use the DMT diamond stones with the folding plastic handles for shaping up the blade. I can keep my hand back behind the blade and pull them towards me.

Harvey, I take a strip from the scrap bin of whatever my finished weight will be. I use it as a flexible rule to get the dimensions. It works especially well for Bible covers and folding things. Allow for the stitching and edges, and then wrap it around. Some like them smaller and want the pad right at the stitchline. Others want the pad centered and inside the line 3/4" to 1". For the spine allowance, it depends on how much other papers they plan on sticking inside the front cover pocket. For my generic pattern I think I allowed for a stack of 20 sheets.

Joanne, I agree with Blake. I wouldn't trash it or take a big hit on it. I'd get it to someone and let them take a look and feel. These are not uncommon things to see on saddles of several price levels. If what I think I see is real, yeah they are fixable to a great degree. The skirts can be laced together further forward. They can be wet and reblocked. The skirt attachments can be tightened up or replaced with lugs depending on the saddle repair guy's comfort level with one or the other. If this is a true tree won't fit this horse deal, then it might help some but won't solve your problem. But again, going back to the history here. If you had a serious fit problem, I think things would have gone south on you before now, more severely. and in different places. I had an email today from someone asking if it was possible to block skirts with the wool is on after seeing this thread. I have seen it done as have Mike, Brent, David, and anyone else who has done saddle week. One of the instructors routinely does it. I don't do it except as a repair deal, but you can. JW and I were talking on the phone a few days ago about the old time saddles that weren't blocked. One of my old pals told me about that. A lot of those old mailorder saddles weren't blocked when you got them - flat skirts with the tree sitting up proud , the stirrup leathers weren't turned either. Most have probably heard grandpa talking about "taking that new saddle and soaking it in the horse trough, riding it until it was dry, then oil it". It was a for real deal - soak the leather and as you rode it, the bars sunk into the skirts and blocked, the skirts molded to the horse, and the leathers turned and set.

I am not a big time customer of HideHouse, but order from time to time. I don't think I have ever ordered more than a side or two until 2 days ago I ordered 3. I don't feel like small fish when I have dealt with HideHouse on those small quantities. Everything I have ordered has gone out that day lik e they say, and I have it the next. When I call they tell me that they have what I need in stock. Some of the guys I know have never complained of bad service, but I can attest that it can happen with anyone. One of the most popular referred to sellers here has lost my order, then a month later forgot to fill my order on the next run of product, and delayed it even longer. It happens. Not to apologize for any suppliers, but often this time of year they tend to be more out of stock. If they are paying inventory taxes at year end, most will try to have the stock pared down. I normally ask them about availability and quality left when I order. Some of them have sorted past some of the skins all year they have left, and don't replace until after the first. Still no excuse to substitute something without letting you know.

For the holes and slot there are some open ended clicker dies. For the ends, Osborne and others make end cutters in half round (sort of) and English points.