bruce johnson

While we are talking glues here, does anybody have experience with using EMU's SAR 36 cement?

Elton, No, my son sells the auctions at the Testicle festival and the Cowgirl Luncheon (cowboys serving a luncheon to the ladies) we put on rodeo week. We spread the auctioneering duties around. He was taking bids near the front of the room at the dinner. As an aside, I donated a floral briefcase for the live auction. Wilford Brimley bought it, donated it back to be resold, bought it again, and then had it resold once more. It ended up and brought in about $3000. We have some cool supporters and fun events.

Denise, Not the typical branding fire or grange hall experience anymore. For the uninitiated, we are serving up what separates the bulls from steers - calf fries, mountain oysters, cowboy caviar, prairie pecans. These all come from a USDA inspected processing plant (really) and arrive frozen. The day before we have a get-together and skin/slice them into cubes while still semi-frozen. They are marinated overnight in red wine, basil, and garlic. Next morning they are batch fried in a commercial kitchen, and put into pans. Then a light splash and sprinkle of seasoning again. Night of the event they are slowly steamed to heat them up again. They are OK, a little better in the morning right out of the fryer I think. The main fare is served with buffalo chili, salad, tortillas, Jerold Camarillo's famous salsa, and bread. Unlimited open bar, which may be the real draw. All this for $50 USD presale or $65 at the door. Typical fundraiser stuff too - live auction, raffle, and buy a grid square on a posterboard. You win if a live duck craps on your square first. Easier to manage than a cow doing the cow crap bingo deal at the Portugese FES hall. Ducks being what they are, it doesn't take long to get a winner. All in all a real fun and unique community event. Leno mentions us, regional TV coverage, the talk of early morning radio nationwide. We sell the souvenir merchandise steadily through the museum website year round. I have done TV spots in the past. We can't mention the "Oakdale Testicle Festival" on the TV promotion spots (censor deal, like they don't say worse) and have to refer to it as an mountain oyster feed on the air. We refer viewers to the website to see what we are really calling it.

Andrew, I am guessing you looked at the website and noticed the main course at our upcoming "festival". We will be serving approximately 500 folks as usual.

I'm with Darcy too. In fact on my parts, I will rough up the grain side, apply the thin cement to the dry leather, let the first coat dry, and then give it a bath. Then when it comes out, wipe the water off the glued surface, apply another coat. When everything is the right temper, fan a paint stripping gun across the dried cement. This will activate it (make it more sticky) and then slap it down. I am told this is what Barge is designed for by the shoe and boot folk - being heat activated. I have never been impressed with Barge's ability to stick to leather that is wet initially. I have a full size fire extinguisher in my shop, and have never had need for it with the paint stripping gun and Barge, even on high. I have tried to light it up and can't get it to go. However, I did touch a sort of freshly glued in zipper end that was a bit frayed to a candle to seal the fray. That will light up your life. Note to self, no open flames with Barge.

YOU ASKED FOR IT. YOU GOT IT!!!! The link is www.youtube.com/oakdalekev. In fact just got an email from my pal Kev this evening. He just uploaded the edited proceedings from our annual fundraising dinner and auction. The cowboy's Antiques Roadshow is "The Cowboy Capitol of the World" episode 2, some cool old stuff, and shots inside the museum. The dinner is "the Cowboy Capital of the World" episode 4, and is broken up into 5 sections. I have major speaking parts in parts 2,3,4, and 5. Wilford Brimley (Quaker Oats and Liberty Medical spokesman) was our guest of honor. Worth a listen if nothing else to hear some pretty sage advice from an old guy. The camera makes both Wilford and I look pretty good for our respective ages. The camera really does lie. Yep, I'm wearing a pink shirt and one of my Joelle Smith ties, TETWP. By the way, our website is www.oakdalecowboymuseum.org. Worth checking out, we have our 27th annual "local delicacy" feed coming up next month. If you can't make it, there is souvenir apparel available.

I am with Ed, about 1/16". I set them on my anvil and smack them flat with a ball peen, or use the flat end of the setter mostly. If I need to dome them, than I turn the setter around and dome it after I have set it. I was shown this about 10 years ago, and have a little better appreciation for these rivets. They are a little more secure that way.

No, but I have refused to. After seeing how that one was put together, I had zero interest in doing anything with it.

It works well, but is kind of pricey compared to buying gallons of AP cement for production work. I used to use it quite a bit on a lot of folded things. Ventilate, respirate, all that stuff.

Steve and Bob, Osborne makes them. I ordered one and got it from Siegel's in 2 days. It is the #151 bag punch. They make them in 1/8" increments from 1/4" to 2". Really handy for back cinch buckles.

I use the TLF saddlemakers groover when I want to make small grooves on thinner leather. I have modified my blades a bit. I took my dremel and narrowed them up some, you really don't need that much blade thickness sticking out on either side of the hole. It mkaes more of a crease than cutting a groove. I thin them up from the bottom for the same reason It puts my cutting edge closer to the bottom of the blade tip. You have to go slowly and carefully or you might go too far. It really does improve their performance for me. I have attached pictures of the two I use the most. One is the Osborne probably like Marlon has (#30, I think). Not one to be satisfied with most Osborne tools as they come, I have modified it too. I don't need one to pivot on a sharp point, I need one to ride an edge. I ground the point off and left the inside flat. It rides like the oldies. Even the smallest grooving point is size #207 thread and up for me. The loop type blade will cut as deep as you want to go. A plus for me for some applications, but not for the "save the grain" consortium. My favorite is the wooden handled one. It is marked H&R. It is a nostalgia tool, and I bought it from my old tool buddy. I liked trying it out. He never would sell it to me directly, always figured he might need to "make himself a belt". Belt time passed and you all had a chance to buy it on ebay too. It is an old shoe tool, used for grooving soles. The downside is that the fence extends down pretty far. It is designed to ride off an edge and works well for double layers of skirting or heavy belts. Not so good for anything under 10 oz, unless you hang it over the edge of the bench. The upside is that is cuts a nice narrow groove, again as deep as you want to cut one. Apparently you can use it like a channeler, and glue up a deep channel and tap it closed if you want. Most of us have some tool(s) with a history, and this is one of mine.

Now this is what I needed to wear to the lutefisk feeds this past winter! I would have been the hit for sure, and the Swedish in-laws would have had yet another reason to wonder about me. Very cool work. Mange Takk,

Ed, The foot that Doug is using has a narrow raised ridge on the bottom behind the needle hole in the center presser foot. What it does is press the stitchline down into the leather after it has been sewn. The ridge on mine is maybe 1/8" long, it looks all in the world like the Adler center foot in Weaver's catalog. Problem with it is on a 90 degree corner or tight curve or point. When you lift the presser foot and turn the work, the pivot point is the needle. That ridge sits out behind that and pivots off the back or outside of the stitchline and makes an impression when it comes down. On a 90 degree corner it looks like an over-run crease line. On a tight turn, it looks like chatter marking chicken tracks outside of the stitchline. The reason I use the right foot on gussets is because of the plate I use. I usually sew gusseted things with tight corners on my stirrup plate. This are things with tighter bottom corners like a shaving kit, purse, or brief case. The rounded top of the stirrup plate makes the radius smaller and easier to go over over those bottom corners. My stirrup plate has a very narrow left ridge, and a wider right ridge. That is by design to get in closer to the wood on stirrups. It also allows me to deform the gusset less while sewing, helps to maintain a near 90 degree bend in the gusset lip, rather than flattening it out. The issue with using the right foot. If I use the left foot, it doesn't contact that narrow ridge and forces my work down over the edge. The right foot will walk on the wider ridge on the right side of the stirrup plate. That is why I use the right foot. To further muddle the issue, and clarify what some were thinking when we discussed this a while back - Why not use the double toe foot? On mine, the double toe foot pairs up with a wider center foot. If I use that, neither of the walking feet contact the stirrup plate.

Ed, Another alternative to the rougher brush deal is a welding brush from an industrial supplier, usually a couple bucks. There are some with stiffer bristles than others. I also use coarse sand paper sometimes for spot areas.

Doug, I know the center foot you are talking about. It is designed to push the stitchline down into the leather. As you have found, it will not track true going around a tight turn. The pivot point is the needle, and the bump or ridge is behind that. That is just the nature of the design. My Ferdco's center feet are smooth on the bottom. I stitch in pretty deep grooves usually so the bump would be redundant. One of my old pals gave me some parts when I bought some tools from him. One was a center foot from an Adler that he had modified the center hole to line up with my 2000. It has the ridge. I use it on straight line projects like breast collars sometimes. Nothing that has to make a turn. If you don't want to invest in another foot, you can grind that ridge off smooth easy enough.

Tina, My point was not Chicago screws breaking, it was the screws backing out of the post and falling off. Most are 3/8" as Keith said. Some of the low end imported stuff will have 1/4" posts. I have not ordered from everyone, but I have some posts that came with screw with no more than 1/8" of thread. Obviously those are not intended for headstalls. I have some that came with longer screws 3/16 or more of threads. These were all just regular orders from normal suppliers. The 3/8 posts usually have the 3/16" screws. I got one batch of 3/8 with the 1/8" thread screws (usually came with the 3/16" screws -explanation - That's what we were sent"). An 1/8" of screw is not a lot of thread. Conchos are another issue. Many of the regular ones have a 1/4" post soldered onto the concho. If the concho is domed much, there is not much protruding post to catch threads of the screw. Try to use a 3/16" screw and it can be dicey. My main concho supplier offers long post and short post conchos, and has screws of different lengths. The XL screws are 3/8" of thread. I have some longer than that, I think they came from Ohio Travel Bag a few years ago. There is another issue. Some of the conchos imported by the big sellers have 4 mm metric screws. The regular ones are normally 8/32.

Patrice, When TLF discontinued carrying the ProCarve, I asked them if the new EcoFlo replacement was antifungal. They told me it was not. It won't be a surprise to them that you had a mold problem, although I would be glad it is just in a rag and dish, and not on a project. Perhaps if enough people let them know that antifungals in a casing solution is a good thing, they might have whoever is making it for them reformulate it. In my old shop, I had a heck of a mold problem, and new bags each time, refrigeration, etc didn't make a huge difference. ProCarve stopped it. I am in a new place and I have not had an issue. I think that resident spores are the big issue. I have had guys in damp southern climates tell me that finished products cased in ProCarve are pretty resistant to mold on the finished products in use. Enough of whatever is in it remains active in the leather according to them. Weavers carries ProCarve and has it in quarts as well as the 8 oz bottles. I have recently switched over to using the Lexol/baby shampoo formula shared here a while back. I like it a bunch. I had a belt I cased up 10 days ago. Put it in a ziplock bag overnight, didn't get to it and meant to take it out of the used bag before I left for a week (didn't). I pulled it out of the bag today, no mold and quick swipe of more casing and let it sit two hours and whacked out the belt. If I find a mold problem, I will be trying to add an antifungal to this mix.

Steve, Neat old saddles, thanks for posting them. I like seeing the oldies, expecially when they have a story.

Tina, The quick and dirty answer is to use whatever post and screw length combo gives you the MOST threads in the MOST post. I have seen some that only catch two or three turns. When they loosen that same two or three turns and it comes loose, the wreck is on. There are a ton of headstalls with Chicago screw or concho with post backs that hold well, and stay tight. There are laces that hold up well too. There are laces that wear and break. There are riders that are fastidious about tightening and rechecking screws or checking laces every ride. There are some that never do, but have a good story about how they got that scar. If looks don't matter, then the open top post and long screws really give you some purchase - the whole post length. Plus is that you can see if a screw is backing out at a glance. There are ways to lock threads. Loc-Tite makes a few different grades of locking compound. Some people coat the thread with things like Elmers glue, nail polish, Goop, adhesive caulk, etc. My first wife was taught to use strong iodine, it theoretically corroded the threads into the post threads. Made it hard to remove conchos. The JP tack tool pliers work well for me to loosen these. They are selling them in ShopTalk and ebay, maybe LCSJ too.

Jon, Great work. I have liked seeing everything posted. I like your tooling style, and like Art said, we all have something to aspire to. And as an aside to everyone, I personally want to thank ALL of the talented makers and just as importantly the folks asking questions. Especially in the last couple months, the amount of knowledge kicked around here has been phenomenal. It can only improve the whole industry when the bar is raised, and there are so many hands pulling the rest of us up and over. Thanks to everyone.

Clay, Happy Birthday, from Rundi and me (who is also 47 as we speak). We are singing Happy Birthday, but Rundi is still sick, and my solos stink acccording to anyone who has ever heard me sing except my mother (and Rundi, but she is just being nice). Just imagine that Froggy and Alfalfa from Little Rascals are singing you a birthday duet.

Peter, I buy the SS clip and dees from Weaver. They are the unpunched ones with about a 6" strap. The strap is a pretty heavy gauge, and the dees look a little more finished than the regulation ones that come prepunched from most suppliers. I can cut them to length, and I use two rivets in them. Many of the single rivet ones will work around and stretch out the leather over time, or is sandwiched in a an edge will cut the stitching on either side. Small holes and two of the rivets keeps the dee more stable. I was drilling the holes on the drill press - low speed and cutting oil. Usually the first hole went OK with the titanium bits, and by the second hole, the edge was starting to get suspect. These were Vermont-American bits I am thinking. Now with the Cobalt bits, I just run them slow and a little oil. They drop through. Troy, I got back tonight and drug some thrown away fenders out of the garbage. I tried your trick with the spikes. I started off with one with a good point. It punched right through the burr,leather, and onto the shoeing anvil. Grabbed a dullish one (really dull), and the burr folded up like a taco shell. Came right off, no need for the nippers. Repeated on 3 more fender top rivets - worked like a champ. I am not sure why, but I cant get it to fold up the burrs holding the Blevins on. Maybe the peens were a little fuller or less worn then the fender top ones. I grabbed a cheap flatblade screw driver, and hit it on either side of those. Worked just like the spikes on the upper rivets. They either popped off or easily pulled off. I am going to set some the way I do them tomorrow and see how it works. Good tip - Thanks.

howardb, I can't answer how companies price the same goods. The #70 CSO knife is $35.95 from Siegels website, it has been at that price for a while. TLF used to carry a more complete line of CSO tools, but have scaled back. Isn't the TLF price 90 something? I have a CSO knife. It is OK, and will sharpen up well. I have a few old Clydes, and they are my favorites. I batch my sharpening, use a knife for a while, grab another, until I have a few to sharpen. MY anecdotal impression is that the Clydes go a while longer than the CSO before the need to strop and sharpen. Brings me to my thoughts on buying a knife. I think that the original post about buying a sharp one ready to go is a good idea. Remember that feel, because it won't be that way in a week, and maybe not in an hour. First skill is to maintain the edge. There seem to be several new knife makers coming on the scene. Some new ads in ShopTalk and LCSJ. Some of the old line makers like Linneman, Jolly, and Buchmann are not making many/any. The guys making knives for other uses have seen the void, and the need for quality tools that has always been there. There are some new or old-but-new-again steels, and steel treatments being used. You will need to talk to the maker to see what they recommend for stropping compound and sharpening. Some of the knives come sharp and hold a an edge quite a while. They also require a lot more effort to bring back to original. You can't afford the downtime to ship one back for resharpening, and many local knife sharpeners have no clue what we need. Some put a very thin fine edge that immediately rolls, and others leave a chiseled edge and hone marks that aren't close to sharp. Herb French put out a pretty good little book on sharpening leather tools. I think Sheridan Leather Outfitters sells it for around $11. Worth it.

Regis, Ditto on the Bersa 380. That is my "travel" pal of choice. I've had it 4-5 years, and run a few through it every month as well. Also the last thing a few down cattle have seen at our place.

For the double caps and the like, I center punch and then drill the cap loose if I can't get an end knipper in under them. For splash rivets I just drill the star until the prongs pop off. For copper rivets I smack the peen to flatten it and then center punch it. Then drill the peen off, and punch the stem on through. I slow speed on the drill press makes drilling these out easy, as does the right bit. I was given this next bit of advice by my Michigan pal, LittleJohn - credit to him. I was having trouble drilling SS strap on some SS clip and dees. The titanium bits would melt and puddle trying to drill the strap. I was getting about 1-1/2 holes per bit. Apparently SS gets harder as it gets hotter, and titanium gets soft. He told me to try cobalt bits. I am still on the first one. It does a great job on SS, and eats copper and steel rivets like I eat flan. I have replaced the commonly used ones as they wear out with the cobalt.