bruce johnson

Looks really good!

I bought a Boss when they were $1600 and the next powered machine that sewed close to them was about $4000. Simple to use, will sew whatever you can cram under the foot, and mine was from backj in the iron days. I stepped up to an Adler 205 when I could afford it, but still kept the Boss for heavy work. Swapped up to a Ferdco 2000 later on and that is when I sold the Boss. When Artisan brought out the short arm Juki clone for under $2000 a couple years later, that was the game changer for the hobby and small shop market for everyone. I've had three servos and two clutch motors on powered machines, I'd never go back to a clutch. Mine adjust the top speed by a dial. I have speed reducers to increase torque and rarely reach up to hand wheel a tight area. Last year I turned a 12 year girl loose on my 1245. I had it dialed down and she sewed her projects straight as a string. Zero learning curve for her with a servo.

Thanks for letting me know!

It depends, and on this model - it REALLY depends. Without more pictures it is hard to say much. They need to have a good "grip" when you release the handles to hold the position. Besides a strong spring if the corners of the slots in the pliers are rounded over or not fitted up, it can wander some. The two eccentric wheels that raise and lower the blade are joined by a square shaft, That shaft can twist if a lot of torque has been put on one side or the other. Then you get to the blade condition. A good full blade is a plus. When you have a good tight one they really are fun to use and make a nice splitter. I have joked with people about them. I say that I bought all I could for $100 each so I can take parts from three of them to make one up and sell it for $200. Sometimes that is pretty damn true. Once in a while I do get a nice one that is good and tight. Currently I sell that kind for $300 - gone through, refurbished, and ready to use. At the worst, as long as one is square, even with a poor grip, they are no different than a lower cost splitter/skiver currently sold. They are a one handed unit at that point - one hand pushes the handle forward to keep the roller against the depth stop while the other hand pulls the leather. You can raise the stop and they make a dandy skiver and especially a lap skiver. Ones in that condition go for $150 - 200 right now depending on blade. I sell those mainly as a companions for a someone who has a Krebs, Chase, or Osborne #86 splitter but still has the need to do some lap skives too.

The number is how far the ridges are apart. The crease line would be further in for each larger size. The outslde ridge is longer to ride down the edge of the leather.

Dean, I got your phone message and came at a good time. I needed a new blade for one I have and had ordered an Osborne replacement yesterday. Hopefully this will go directly onto the old frames but nothing Osborne does surprises me. I will give a feedback on the new Osborne blades once I get it, sharpen, and test it. They are supposed to have a bimetal blade but shorter section of the hardened steel than the old ones. We'll see.

The bigger the number, the larger the size. The approximates are each number is +/- 1/32". A #2 is 2/32 between the ridges, a #5 wiuld be 5/32", etc. Then it gets fun. Gomph makes another size range up from there also in a #1-#5 size range they call a large round creaser. The older Osbornes made a larger size range #1-#5 and they called them layer creasers. The larger size range starts at 6/32 and goes up 1/32 with each number. There can be some variation between one tool to the next due to small manufacturing differences and wear. Then you find the occasional #0 or #6 too. All bets are off on the new Osborne ones and they bear little resemblance to the old ones. Apparently they lost the patterns and quality control specs at some point.

I have added several new tools to my website today. There are knives including a stellar Wm Rose head knife, splitters, rein rounders, and saddler and cantle pliers. Here is the link to the recent addition page - http://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/recently-added-tools/ Thank you, - Bruce

With any groover round corners can be a little tricky and take some practice. What I do is to sometimes use my left thumb to make a "brake" for the blade and really concentrate on swinging the guide around the edge on the corners with the cutting tip mostly pivoting until the guide leg clears the corner. It is the same action I use with a border guide on my swivel knife if I am cutting borders, using creasers, or any similar guided tool going around tight outside corners. Practice on some scrap to get the motion down.

Once the blade is in, the most common reason the leather goes over or under the blade is not being positioned correctly. I have had this happen a few times. Sharpen a blade and get feedback that leather is going over or under the blade. There are stops that catch the corners of the blade. The blade needs to be pushed up against them and somewhat tightened. Relax just enough to let the blade marginally come back off the stop so it is not tight.

String bleeders need to have an absolute fine point on the tip to start the cut. They need to start like an awl blade and the blade edge has to be really sharp. If they are dull or burred over anywhere then you are pushing too hard and they go crooked or make too large a slit. With a good edge I like them the best. I have had them from Bob Douglas, McMillen and Jeremiah Watt with equal results. One of those things I don't get real often and they go fast when I do. Another tool that works is a large thonging awl, like a diamond awl only bigger. That was my first bleed slit cutter and they do a good job but again kind of uncommon. The problem I had with them was that the bottom edge might be cutting into the other leg of the string if I didn't pay attention.

Here is a link to a tutorial on my website I did about edge beveler sharpening - http://brucejohnsonleather.com/tutorials/

I generally don't deal with motorized stuff but I have sold a two of the Randall strap cutters in good condition for around $400 each.

Hanson's Silver have them. and most silver makers can solder conchos onto carriage bolts.

What are these going to be?

Not that it relates to this topic directly but a heads up to NVLeatherWorx and others who use the online USPS shipping for internationals. You can no longer print the small flat rate box labels through the website. You have to go in and do it at the window. A couple weeks ago they took that option away with no notification or explanation on the site. Medium and larger boxes and all the envelopes are still there. I tried a few ways and no go. Spent 1-1/2 hours on hold for customer service one day before the live person lost me 3 seconds into it. Got a guy the next day after a 50 minute wait. His shift had started an hour earlier and his "log" so far had 36 calls in that hour asking where the small flat rate box option is. The statement is the label is too large for the box. He also told me that regional flat rates are gone too if you use those.

Johanne, A few things that are going on over here with them. I am batting about 25% getting one shipped to me without it being broken. The last was packed like a bug in a rug but the postal service dropped the box on the end. Accordioned the end of the box (which they admit) and denied payment because the damage was from "shock" which they don't cover. If nothing pokes through the box, they call it shock damage and at least for this denied it and again on two appeals. The only recent one that got here without being broken was part of a shop deal and it was pitted beyond use. The other thing is the price has really dropped on them in some areas. A lot of the harness is going to Beta and the demand for creasers has dropped. The guys that hit the Midwest auctions said that creasers are not worth the guys bringing them and they are not showing up like they used to. That ought to mean there are some just sitting, but I am not seeing them out here and with my track record I am not seeking them out either.

It is a decorative wheel that is also referred to as a "crow wheel". Some bespoke shoe and boot makers use them for decorative lines.

David, I ship out internationally 5-6 times a week on average the last couple months. I pretty much only use USPS Priority Mail. If I can keep the box size under 12" the rates are not too bad. The recipients don't want any more surprises on fees with other shippers than what they already expect. The only exception has been couple shipments that insisted on Global Express Guaranteed that uses a combination of FedEx and USPS to expedite shipments. Customs are usually pretty fast in most places. Sent a heavy big box to Australia last Monday and he just emailed that he got it today. I had one that got hung up in Canadian Customs and they held it about a month though, Canada and England can be slow going in. On internationals coming to me, I have never paid on anything mailed to me yet. I haven't received anything internationally from UPS or FedEx but DHL has breezed right in with no fees too. Some are heavy and insured for a bunch and I figured they'd be the ones.

Inlays, wallets, card cases, bucking rolls,

I would recommend calling Lisa Sorrell at Sorrell Custom Boots in Guthrie, OK. She has used it for a while and is selling it. I was there a couple weeks ago and she gave me small sample to try. it worked well in a test I did with it. She can fill you in on using it for footwear.

Billy, This is a picture of Weaver's version. In the past a few companies made these. Those versions had either a wood or steel bottom roller and put a single or dbouled crease line down each edge of the strap. Some were domed to crown the straps as well.

CC, Interesting piece. I haven't seen a patent or example like this one before. My total guess on this is that the original blade slot broke out (not uncommon) and this was modified. A few things tell me that. The tapering grind to allow clearance for the two bolts. That is the most used section of the beam and full width is going to feed better. The plate that the bolts go through has no shim so the only pressure on the blade is from that plate squeezing the blade. The slot appears too narrow front to back for a stock Osborne draw gauge blade so it probably was fitted with an improvised blade. I have had several with the broken out or cracked blade slot. A little excess tension on the screw and that can bow out or crack the slot. The closest I have seen to this had two screws tapped into the very edge of the slot front and back and the bolt heads somewhat held the blade. This appears to be an interesting fix. The 67 on the handle is a matching number. The matching original beam would have the same #67 on it. The common place is the bottom part of the slot frame on the beam. These were all individually fitted and mated beam and handles. The early ones had numbers, letters, or patterns of awl pricks on the mated beams and handles so as they went through the finishing stages in bulk they could be matched back up for final assembly. Somewhere along the line they all adopted the interchangeable parts manufacturing process and built tools and bench machines en masse without individual fitting.

Bret, you just keep raising the bar! That is some kind of cool!

I'd say start with a 16 oz for most stamps then a larger one for big block stamps. My most used are 16 and 24 oz. I have a 32 oz for big blocks. My 3# is used to drive punches.