TXAG

The monster ii balance wheel (as far as I know) won't have anything to do with precise stitches...it is used to provide more power for the needle to punch through heavier materials...I have one on my LSZ and recommend it, especially for thicker materials...

The extra $150 gives you the ability to do "zig-zag" stitches, which is useful in making bartacks, for example. If you're never, never, never ever going to sew anything but leather, I guess you could just get the LS if you wanted to...but if there is any possibility of sewing fabric (nylon, etc.), the zig-zag feature is useful. I've repaired more than a few pairs of bluejeans that have started wearing out before their time with the zig-zag function on my machine...

I'd spend the extra $150 and get the Sailrite LSZ if I were you...sometimes they have specials where they offer free shipping also...that should help out a bit... I have the LSZ (used to have the LS) and it works great...I usually make military tactical gear, but I've used it with leather (and appropriate leather needles) and it works great with leather also. Go check out some of their videos on youtube to see what they're capable of...

Friends don't let friends buy from Tandy... Both of those books are much cheaper on Amazon...(about half the cost of Tandy in both cases...) http://www.amazon.com/Braiding-Fine-Leather-Techniques-Australian/dp/0870335448/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407780177&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/Leather-Braiding-reprint-Bruce-Grant/dp/087033039X/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407780177&sr=8-2

I wish I could get a nice stainless steel one. Sadly, I do not have any friends that are machinists to make one for me...sounds like it would work nicely...

I agree with Dwight actually...

This happens when someone doesn't know the correct way to use the press-n-snap. To install them the right way, you begin setting it with the screw adjusted so you just have slight resistance. Then, while keeping tension on the pliers part, adjust the screw so the handles open up a bit. Squeeze it tight again. Repeat until the snap is good and tight. I do it this way with the press-n-snap and none of my snaps spin around at all. They're all set very well and tight.

Yeah, no. I'm still not buying it.

You could make your own after stripping some Romex...

I am glad that worked for you. Do a search on here for tiger thread and it should pull up threads on alternatives to it that are cheaper. You'd have to wax it yourself, but I understand that you're ok with that.

+1

Ok, that right there is probably why you haven't had any buyers. Most of us don't likely have a cool $10k just sitting there burning a hole in our pocket...much less the time and money to travel there and haul it all off. Just sayin...

Thread / Needle size are pretty much dependent on what you're making...and also the stitches-per-inch you're using. For the cases and bags I make, I usually use 7SPI, 0.8mm braided polyester (AKA "tiger" thread) and John James #2 needles, as recommended by Nigel in his videos. It's been working great for me. I have a few of the same irons you linked to as I picked them up in Japan while I was vacationing in Tokyo. They work pretty well...I completed my wallet kit with them and used a thinner (thinner than 0.8mm anyway) ramie thread I bought there also. I'll try to post pics of my stitching with those irons later. I'm not sure what else could be the problem...I'd recommend getting some 0.8mm braided poly (either "Tiger" or there are other sources others have used on here if you don't want to get the more expensive Tiger thread...)...and some good #2 John James needles from here: http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-tools/leather-sewing-harness-needles (You want the "Size 2" ones...those are the correct size for 0.8mm tiger thread...) I think the "Size 4" ones Nigel recommends for 0.6mm braided poly...in case you want to get that size instead... Hope that helps...

I would not recommend making round holes for your stitching. I have found that making the overhand knot (as shown in Nigel's "saddle stitch in detail" video), that helps the thread to lay correctly to give it the "zig zag" appearance. If you're gouging out a stitching groove, don't. It will force the stitches into the channel and they won't have the zigzag look... Also, when you are tightening, pull each thread in the direction you want it to finally "sit"...if that makes sense...when I pull my stitches tight, I'm pulling up and away with one and down and away with the other.

I'd already asked her about whether she had any slot punches early this morning before this was posted...

Look for flat bars on mcmaster.com. You'll probably find something you can use there...along with a lot of other stuff you don't know you need yet.

Pic... I will probably be listing these on ebay soon for the same price as shown in the first post here. I don't need these and need to buy other materials that I can use. The groover isn't in the pic, but is also new and includes an extra cutting blade. Throwing in the modeling / stylus tool and "speedy stitcher" too, as shown. Thanks.

Hmm...looks like I need to start braiding up some of these to sell...

There are books written with this information...far too complicated to cover in a single post here. If you search, there are quite a few threads that discuss the questions you asked, but none are as complete as the books I've seen written on building bullwhips (and stock whips, etc.). The "wrap on either end" of the whip...are you talking about the turkshead knots? Those are typically used on both ends of the whip handle. Takes a while to learn how to tie those if you're starting from scratch. Again, there are many great books to learn from...I usually use youtube also and some folks on there have great how-to videos for various types of turkshead knots. For lace, I'll send you a PM -- mainly because I have a list of people to AVOID buying lace from and don't feel like arguing with others on here about that. (And one or two sellers who I can recommend highly)

84 isn't the same as the 86...I don't think the 84 would work either though. I've tried various thicknesses of chrome tan on the 86 -- none worked.

CORRECT url: www.theleatherguy.ORG ...not .com

I have an 86 with a VERY sharp blade and it will not do chrome tan leather at all, whatsoever. Just FYI before you go out and buy one thinking it'll do that right because mine can't and I've tried too many times to count. Finally gave up.

...and the word is "Cavalry"...not "calvary". May not seem like a big difference, but it is (completely different meanings) and those doing a search that spell it correctly will never see this thread with it spelled wrong.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=33567#entry208496 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18101&page=5#entry167846 A round bottom edger.

PM sent to OP re: Ohio Travel Bag.