TXAG

Let me know if you can make more boxes like that...I don't need one for five swivel knives (I just have one, but it's a very nice one. ), but could use one for a knife and some stamping tools...

Ahh...I don't have any neat-lac and I hate tandy, so...I might be out of luck. I do have some boot shine stuff that I used when I was in AIT in the Army (back when we still had Drill Sergeants at AIT)...it was more like a shine "preserver" I guess...you'd get your boots spit shined to where you could see your reflection in them like patent leather and then put this stuff on them and it would keep it shiny. Might have to try it on a test piece and see how it works...

Yes, I have had that book for a while now. It is helpful...but I still don't understand parts of it...like that way he says to name pineapple knots...oh well... Are you tying the 32L x 32B knot from an over/under pattern somewhere? I'd really like to find the pattern to do that... I thought those were covered in the tom hall book, Tracym...I don't like the type 2 ones very much because they don't seem as well-contained as the type 1 ones...they don't "close down" on the ends like the type 1 and don't look very "finished" to me. I doubt I will use them in any of the items I make, but I guess it is good to know how to tie them anyway...if I find it in the tom hall book, I'll let you know which page it's on...

That guy is so painfully tedious to listen to, I can't ever make it through an entire video of his. One thing he's completely full of s### on is parachutes are not sewn with polyester thread -- they're sewn with bonded nylon thread...and so are the harnesses and containers. I have no idea who told him that, but all the military specifications I've read on parachute rigging call for bonded nylon thread. I'm not saying it's better than polyester...I'm just saying he's full of crap on that piece.

I noticed on some of the finished items in Gail Hought's books, there is a very shiny finish on them...I've tried to find in the books where she talks about how to do that, but cannot find anything about it. How do you get a nice, shiny finish on your finished items? I'm using drum-stuffed roo right now, so mainly interested in that...though I've seen some nice rawhide work with shiny finishes too. Anyone have any info on that?

Thanks for the detailed diagram. I will try to understand what you wrote...it will probably take a while...

Well, my experiences and several others on here have been completely opposite of that. Maybe one day, they won't censor threads that they don't like and "hide" them from view. Until then, I think everyone has a right to know what they're getting into if they place an order with these people. ...and I am completely undeterred by you or anyone else.

Yes -- You are.

I'll send you a PM with details about why you might want to rethink buying from springfield, superpacker...

Yep. At the risk of being incredibly grammatically incorrect, white saddle soap is where it's at...

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53038

PM sent about buying from springfield leather.

SpencerC...you might want to pm me before giving springfield any of your money...

I think you're going to need to just call around to different bookkeepers in your area and get rates from them. You can probably find reviews on them on Yelp for your area.

Maybe. But you're the one that came on here and posted the link to it in your first post. I find that pretty distasteful.

I don't get it...so you can work building saddles (which I happen to know is quite arduous_), but you can't work at a regular job? I am a disabled Iraq war veteran and I manage to work a full time job...it never occurred to me to just come on here and ask people for money in my first post on this site...

If you have access to Photoshop, there's a filter you can use on that image which basically turns it into a line art image...that would probably work pretty well as a basis to start from...

I wonder if you could remove the spring part and bend it to make it have tension again...might be easier to get a new bobbin case though...

Well. Now you know how to search better, huh?

There is a search box at the top right corner of the page that generally works great for answering common questions like this...and even uncommon ones... http://leatherworker...showtopic=40102

If you're trying to imply that I make huge, uncomfortable wallets by your use of the term "costanzas", you would be wrong. Also, I already have an over stitch wheel. I dont' like it because it's a huge pain in the ass to use. That's why I want a PRICKING IRON.

You're welcome...Bruce is a really nice fellow and provides high-quality tools at fair prices. I'm very happy with what I've received from him.

All those reasons you listed are why I personally will never do consignment. I have way too much stress in my life already without having to worry about my stuff going "missing" because the owner or one of their employees decided they want it or from customers stealing it. When I've placed my items with retailers before, I insist they buy them outright. I find that they are much more attentive with what happens to their stock that way...and if they aren't, then it's their own loss -- not mine.

I appreciate your help, but I am confused...you said, "instead of a 30L x 32B"...the knot I tied and had pics of on the first page was a 13L x 8B...so I would not even know how to tie a 30L x 32B knot...not a 32L x 32B one.

Won't there still be a gap there? Because it sure doesn't look like there's one in the pic in the first post... And if there is not a gap, wouldn't there be a ridge where the leather goes over top of the other edge? Oh well...maybe one day I'll have a rein rounder and try it then...