TXAG

Well...whenever I see people post the same question multiple times in various sections, I go out of my way to avoid them. Causes too much clutter when trying to find actual, real new posts... It's also widely considered very poor forum etiquette to do that.

You can. Usually doesn't result in anyone replying necessarily though.

It's not an actual "spring" -- it is a piece of spring steel. It should be the only screw on your bobbin case...and your bobbin case should look similar to the one I posted a pic of earlier.

Topics almost identical to your question: http://leatherworker...showtopic=32210 http://leatherworker...showtopic=30794

Yeah, I don't see a decent pic of your bobbin case in there. If it has a screw on the case holding down a piece of spring steel (which the bobbin thread is routed under), that is the screw you use to adjust the bobbin tension. From page 7 of your manual: "B. Tension of the Lower (Bobbin) thread: The lower (bobbin) thread tension is controlled by the screw near the center of the spring at the outside of the bobbin case. Turning this screw clockwise will increase the thread tension, while turning it to the left of counterclockwise will decrease it." ...which is almost precisely what I just said. Have you actually read the manual for your machine yet?

This is pretty much what my bobbin case looks like for my machine...that screw on the side that holds down the piece of spring steel is how you adjust the bobbin tension. If yours looks like that, try adjusting in 1/4 turns at a time. (Rotate left (counter-clockwise) to loosen...right (clockwise) to tighten)

You already posted this question -- http://leatherworker...hp?showforum=36

You should always START with adjusting the actual tension knob though...that's what I was talking about in my previous post. IF and ONLY if you cannot get it adjusted properly with the main tension knob, THEN you can start trying to adjust the bobbin tension. So in my previous post, I answered "Yes." because they need to check their top tension first with the main tension knob and try to adjust it there.

What does the Sheriff say about when you will be able to recover property from him in the amount of your judgment? Did Dallas give you any reason why he will not refund your fees?

Yes.

There are seven pages of videos by Bernie46...any hints on which ones would cover ring work? I also don't know which post of Peter T's you're talking about and he has more than a few... I don't know what this means.

Yeah, I'm not paying $90+ for that book either. Guess I will have to find some other way to acquire it. Where were you able to find a used copy?

Who is the author of the book?

Thanks for your reply...do you know of any tutorials that I could check out to learn how to do that?

Is that you selling it?

Yes. The back ("bend") is the best part with least stretch...

I'very been reading David Morgan's "Braiding Fine Leather" and was wondering if anyone could please explain to me what he means by "ring work"? He mentions it very briefly and with no explanation (that I can understand, anyway) of how to do it. After reading the same section on round braiding several more times, I think I understand 4-seam, etc...but I still do not know what he means by "ring work". I tried searching on here and elsewhere before posting this question and couldn't find anything about it...hopefully, someone here will be able to explain it.

...exactly what Electrathon said...Couldn't have said it better myself.

Yeah, I don't feel like doing that, so I just buy them already made that way.

I don't know if this will help, but you can get curved needles here... http://www.paragear.com/products/10000169/S7210/ Unfortunately, they have a $25 minimum order...but they have some other things leather workers will find useful...(sewing palms, thread, etc...)

That's a matter of opinion -- not fact.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52667 And make sure to read this before giving springfield any of your money... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52721

This topic (knot foundations) has been covered quite a bit in the braiding section.

I appreciate the suggestion, but unfortunately, they will never see another penny from me.

From two posts above yours...