GoldenKnight

Nice. For the plastic window, you can use clear vinyl for marine (boat) windows and weather covers. Same material for convertible windows. Available at awning/sunbrella or marine supply, or Amazon.

The real border crisis is not state-to-state, nor is it the use of an oil-based leather dye. If it is, we are in so much more of a bad situation than I thought. Besides, if felons get sanctuary status, are they really going to be able to validate any penalty to your possession or use of oil-based dye?? Just add a little n.f. oil to your alcohol-based dye. I've done it successfully several times & no complaints. YMMV

Use most of Mulesaw's logo suggestion with these adjustments: 1. Border -- Make the border an outline of the map of the U.S.A. (I spent 10 years overseas, non-military, and the map of the U.S. is readily recognizable.) 2. Logo -- Swap the hammer for a swivel knife or maul. (This removes the similarities to the communist flag logo.) I love the U.S. flag for "Union" and the colors, but it looks too cartoonish and somewhat like a political pin-on button a kid puts on their backpack. For color print you can use the red, white, and blue for the different words. Union in blue. Leather Supply in white. Shape of the U.S. map outline in red. That would really pop in print & business cards, be identifiable, and yet not overly complicated. 3. Font -- Keep the same font as your current logos. Continuity is key. Nike keeps their font regardless of equipment or level of product/model. These changes should clean it up, appear more professional, and be easy to reproduce from an ink print to a laser etched brand mark on products.

Very cool ideas. I have seen this done with pottery as well (Alewine Pottery in Gatlinburg, TN does this on various mugs, plates, bowls, etc.) Hopefully those that have looked into this more will update their results, methods, and provide some additional tips.

Using Sharpie permanent markers is nothing new, and a good option for small detailed work. I have done this on several small projects for outlining the stamped letters of a name, adding more color or shading to other figures (grass, flowers, wood edges of a tree or log, ...). The Precision/ Ultra Fine tip ones are great for that and Sharpies come in a great range of colors, so you don't have to custom mix dyes and you have color consistency for shading IF that's what you need and when they get used up a little or dried out, they are actually really useful then for light shading on figure carvings that won't see use except for being be wall hangers or shelf sitters. However, for my larger projects nothing beats a brush and dye from a bottle - the proven way to know it is getting deep saturation into the leather. For outdoor and animal use gear, this is essential. It all depends on your project, depth of dye penetration needed, etc. For veg tanned - yes, Sharpies will work for some projects for a limited task, but they need to be limited in use because they cannot be refilled, they do run out of consistrnt ink flow, you cannot control saturation like you can with a brush, etc. I would use the previously recommended dye techniques combined with the previous advise provided (proper swivel knife outline cuts, possible some beveling) prior to dying. I think you'll see the results you are seeking. Best of luck.

What about using latigo since it will be around water from time to time between rain, snow melt, or hose spray?

If you are wanting to use thin & finished upholstery leather as the top, but make it strong enough to be useable without the expense of quality veg tan, I would sandwich Cordura, jeans, or canvas duck cloth material glued between a top and bottom layer of finished upholstery leather. Sew around the outside perimeter and maybe add a decorative pattern across the seat to keep the layers together over time and use from separating. (Do not make the stitching pattern too tight of a stitch or detailed where it would weaken the thinner leather or add to premature wear.) That will produce a nice finished look, be leather on both sides, reinforced in the middle, and save costs.

Angelus brand has a Light Rose dye that has worked well for me in the past when I needed items dyed pink. (Usually around November, for Breast Cancer Awareness month items.)

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/292384444955 I bought a few of these. Just like one I got from Tandy on sale, but here it is less $$ and in various colors. Probably the same maker. The only downside is the 1 to 4 week delay on delivery.

Gold Frost Eco-Flo Hi-Lite Color Stain is another option. I tried uploading a pic, but the file was too large. It will give that appearance too.

What about using Gilder's Paste? The gold, antique gold or mix the copper and gold and you can get a cool effect. There's an endless amount of artistic freedom there. It's a really cool product. https://goo.gl/images/hVqZ1L https://goo.gl/images/gwL2SV Here's just one of many sources that sells it. Wally World (Wal-Mart for the international community/ folks), Amazon, Springfield Leather, ... and others. I've used it with good success on some projects and a little goes a looong way (1 oz covers 30 square feet). Coat with Resolene (spray it on is best if able) & it should give a good result. http://www.firemountaingems.com/shop/gilders_paste-leather_working_technique I think it might be the solution to what you're looking to do and be a keeper. Let us know what you end up doing. Be safe.

Very cool. Nice work.

You're near a friend of mine -- Lui Rayon, a mentor, incredible master leather craftsman in my opinion, and friend, not to mention the owner of Daddy's Leather Supply in the southeast quadrant of SR 836 and SR 826 in a warehouse area. He has the only real working leather shop I know of within a few hundred miles. Check him & his store out. This is unsolicited advertising for him, so that's quite a statement. http://www.dleathersupply.com Welcome to the forum.

Another option - one I have used successfully - is using Fiebings water stains and added some neatsfoot oil to my cup of stain, warmed it up a little more than room temp, then applied. It seems to go deeper into the pores of the leather and never rubs off. Let it dry a day, then Resolene, & good to go. Resolene cut 50/50 with water.

I went to the tile section of my local home improvement store, got a glass bull-nose wall tile used for border edge (about 2"x4") and use the rounded bull nose part. $0.67 I figured if it didn't work, it didn't break the bank. Still using it 3 years later.