jcuk

This is my Texas Rosebud with pen for scale.

Got mine from Abbey around £15 with two types of of blade and its a George Barnsley.

Might be of interest. https://www.crockettandjones.com/the-article/the-clicking-room-secrets-of-the-shoe-trade/

Easier to cut and paste this. Many make their own blades from old hack saw blades. https://www.artisanleather.co.uk/clicker-knife-1476-p.html

Oh a Exacto type knife i have a full set which i have had 25+ years all pretty much in mint condition that's how much i use them, for cutting lighter leather i use a Clicker knife which is the far right one.

Have to confess i have never used this kind of knife as you can tell from my previous post is this topic its a Round knife foe me at least 95% of the time .Skinny ali things with a really sharp point ?

Think this would have been a better choice i know its double the money but looks far better quality. https://www.sheffieldknives.co.uk/acatalog/7-121.html#SID=15 Hope this helps JCUK

No worries

Totally agree i have a Knipschield Knife in fact the said Texas rosebud had it around five years its never been near a stone just strop and go works as well as the day i got it, only mistake i made looking back cant help feeling should have got the full fat version the Texas Rose. Also i would be very shocked if they did not hold there value on the used market, when you think about it $245.00 is not a lot for something you use more or less every time you go into your work shop especially as i have said you can do more with this one knife than other knife which means you don't need to buy several different for likes of skiving and such if you take the time to learn how to use one. JCUK

Yes i too know there is a difference between the a Round Knife and a Head knife just mention both because some may have one or the other, i have no doubt about those Japanese knives as being ok to use got to be better than a Stanley type knife (box cutter) especially those with snap off blades ouch waiting to happen to me, for the type of work i don't think any knife can replace a Round Knife. JCUK

In all the time i have been in leather work i have not seen any other knife as versatile as a Round Knife/Head Knife, i would not be without mine. In fact i cant think of a more versatile tool that i have.

John Adams. https://sheffieldknives.co.uk/acatalog/2-88.html Hope this helps JCUK

Curious what makes you think this knife will be of more quality. Also have a look at this site there is only one Round Knife at the moment it is unmarked and 5'' contact Bruce ask him about it, don't think it would be on his site if he did not rate it. Many here will endorse his site and the quality of the tools for sale it will be ready to go out of the box and it might be an unmarked gem, he often has some good old ones for sale. My first single Head Knife was unmarked and is a little gem still have it some 25 plus years cost £13 https://brucejohnsonleather.com JCUK

This maybe a better choice for you it will do anything a round knife can do, less of a learning curve in use and sharpening. https://www.abbeyengland.com/barnsley-single-head-knife-552.html They also have these cant say how good or bad they are, the blade does not look over big. https://www.abbeyengland.com/abbey-round-knife-10222.html Tempted by this myself but cant justify it to the other half i think, but this looks a good one they don't come up that often as good as this, yes it maybe on the large side for you now but you will get use to it and not regret it. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-half-moon-cutter-cobblers-saddlers-leather-working-tool-by-Dixon/164662949917?hash=item2656ad381d:g:oVMAAOSwxTxgDAQo Hope this helps JCUK

Plus all part of the learning curve JCUK

Hi before you use any kind of oil based product use a soft brush to remove any dust and dirt from the saddle secondly then clean it gently with saddle soap after it has dried off, then apply Neats foot oil heat it up before you apply it (tepid) luke warm it helps penetrate the fibre better also with remember with NFO a little goes a long way you don't want to saturate the leather which will weaken already damaged parts of the the saddle. And not sure if you are going to do anything to the seat but if it just for a display and conversation piece i would leave it as it is, unless you know of someone who can do a sympathetic restoration. And yes its a nice piece of history. Hope this helps JCUK

I know not US based but as no one has responded thought i would give you some links - both are good companies to work with and ship worldwide. https://www.metropolitanleather.com/Buy-Leather/Buy-Vegetable-Tanned-Leather/Saddle-Pigskin-Pitsford https://www.abbeyengland.com/pigskin-greased-7699.html https://www.abbeyengland.com/pigskin-dry-7698.html Hope this helps JCUK

Yes that one on Ebay UK has been there around 2 years at least.

Whenever i get a request for belt that's going to be a gift and get i think their waist size 28'' which happened just before Christmas, My rule of thumb is i take the one waist/belt size i know to be right my own 30'' so then i deduct or add inches either way seems to work out ok cant honestly say they all hit the centre hole but as long as long as you don't hit the first two holes or last hole straight away i find they should and most likely are happy enough with what they get i mean how many of us before we got into leather work knew about the centre hole thing and how many of us were given belts that were to large only to put more holes in them our selves before we got into leather work. The other rule of thumb to my belts is the centre of the buckle turn and first hole are both 3'' from each end. Hope this helps JCUK

Is the customer trying to hide the the fact that he has money in his wallet, so he does not have to get the next round in. Nice work by the way. JCUK

Fantastic workmanship JCUK

Would not go down the copper rivet route, can be a pain in the rear end to remove at times. Here is a site showing the Chicago screw method and more methods such as using a Concho which i believe is the same as a Chicago screw method, someone on here will correct me here if i am wrong- on that i am sure, another way is to tie it which is also shown not quite sure how this method is achieved but looks pretty straight forward but again hopefully some of the western style tack makers on here can steer you right on that. https://western-saddler.co.uk/collections/headstalls Hope this helps JCUK P.S. Thinking on i did repair one many moons cant remember how it was tied may have a play in my workshop tomorrow

Not sure if these maybe of use https://www.amazon.co.uk/Toolzone-4pc-Offset-Screwdriver-Set/dp/B002NHAOA4 Hope this helps JCUK

Can i ask what style of Bridle is it English or Western, if English why do you want to use this method to attach the bit to the cheek pieces. I have only ever used Chicago screws on American style racing tack and that was on the bit end of the reins which had been re-enforced with a metal insert for safety just in case the Chicago screws failed which they had that's why i had to replace (have to say bridles were not made by me) just done the repair yes i used thread lock, did not come back for for same repair. They don't protrude too much so highly unlikely to chafe your horses cheek if you are wanting a easy method to change the bit maybe better to have a buckle billet if English style tack. On setting saddlers copper rivets once you have snipped the excess amount off when using the doming part of the rivet setter as you strike it keep turning it gives a better finish, you don't have to but after i have finish with the setter i give one tap on the rivet. Hope this helps JCUK

So no place for my Bic Biro then sorry could not resist. And that's nice work too like that, and i do like a nice fountain pen also. JCUK