jcuk

There is a tool called a Martingale groover which used for rolled work, it will cut into the leather does not remove any leather like stitching groovers. It can be set to what ever width and depth you want but that has to be done on a test piece first as there is no gauge but it will give you more control on how deep you want to go, than doing it with a knife. The only problem is they are hard to come by Abbey carry them not cheap though, can't tell you about the quality of it and they are out of stock something tells me you may have to contact them they may only be made to order these days if you are lucky. You may get lucky on eBay as I did got a lovely H Brindley or maybe Bruce might be able to source one that Side of the pond for you.The way I use it is cut the channel then run my single crease through it just to widen it while I stitch once stitched bone over where I have stitched to conceal the stitches. Here is a link to Abbey also a old link to a site your side of the pond better pics of the tool. https://www.abbeyengland.com/abbey-martingale-groover-fs0210 https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/martingale-groover-saddlery-harness-160500031 Hope this helps JCUK

I have three splitting machines, the first one I got was the small Ivan which served me well and will probably do the same now. The other two are Osbourne's the first one I got was the 86 got it around 30 years ago fantastic tool (still has the same blade) the other is the 84 got it about 5 years ago going for a very good price on eBay to good to turn down it was like a new machine, think someone thought they would get into leather work and then quickly decided its not for them anyway the blade on the 84 is slightly out but I can live with that, just know which side of the blade will take more off. When I first started this game I wanted a Dixon but they were a lot more than the Osborne's at the time. There is a misconception in thinking because the blade is 8'' wide you can pull 8'' through not a chance the most I have pulled through is 4''a few times and thats making sure I have worked on the blade first, and that's something else to consider blade maintenance, thats not to be taken lightly because you can mess them up badly and they are not cheap to replace on the Osbourne's I will admit it took me a good long time and research at how to sharpen the blade, the reason the blades are wide is that you don't use the same place of the blade every time you need to split something that extends the the time between resharpening the blade. I have seen a new make of splitter well new make to me that looks a pretty good one, a bit more money that you want to spend but if you are wanting to get into saddlery it may be worth spending a bit more now instead of buying a cheap one for now and wanting something better later on. I have posted a some of links that maybe of interest one is a company that I think are in Germany you may know them already, the other is of the splitter that looks good for the money also no blade maintenance on this one as it uses a craft knife blade, and if you on YouTube there are some clips of people pulling wide pieces through. https://www.dictum.com/en/tools/leatherworking-papercraft-upholstery-tools/leather-cutting-and-skiving-tools/?order=Relevancy.desc&p=2 https://www.metropolitanleather.com/shop/druckel/ Clip of one being used https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Yn6KSJW9lg Hope this helps JCUK

Thought so, I have seen them made full leather backs in one piece also from two pieces spliced together just make the join is not in the part that will be sliding through the bit ring as is will wear on the stitching. Also seen them made with webbing and leather. The ones I do not like are the ones made from Biothane because they become very tatty very quickly with wear and the other thing with certain pieces of tack made from Biothane if the gets loose the reins can some times can get wrapped around the horses legs resulting with a badly injured horse at times as the Biothane will not break first the horse will, that's why I like leather for tack over anything else, having said that Biothane can be useful for areas of safety in tack. Once it was held up as a cheap alternative to leather tack but I have noticed how the prices have crept up and are a par price wise to leather tack and for certain pieces of tack or in some cases more expensive, how did that happen especially as with all plastic it will not break down once thrown away like leather tack stitched with linen thread.Sorry not wishing to sound like some hippie eco warrior or something, good leather tack looked after well will last a very long time I have seen this, Biothane will crack and look very untidy eventually and then just gets thrown in the bin not worth repairing. Regards JCUK

Glad someone else has seen it too, I was going to replace the rivets with copper rivets but thought no they are a pain in the rear end to remove maybe damaging the saddle webbing in doing so making it a much bigger repair. So I decided to use a method that I had learned from repairing some race exercise reins for a American trainer who was training in the Middle East when I was there, the bit end was attached with Chicago screws, must add also the reins were double thickness lined with a strong metal insert bent around to make the bend. That's what I used for the billet with a good thread locker knowing the restitch was enough to of a repair in its self. Also forgot to mention who ever had replaced them previous billets before had stitched across the billet as well, that is a big no no. On the saddle you repaired I would think in a saddle of 25 years plus would have had the girths billets replaced a few times over the years before, but you never know sometimes. Just don't like the thought of a bigger hole in the saddle webbing that is needed that's why I checked before that the webbing was still okay and ran it by the tack shop owner who then contacted the owner of the saddle that they wanted stitching and rivets which they did also showed them where it had failed where previous repair had been stitched across the billet, yes that is where it had failed. Hope this helps JCUK

I did noticed but was so shocked at the so called repair. One thing that made me smile and wince at the same time was edge shaving the patch after it had already been stuck in place, was waiting for her to slip and damage the seat even more. About the use of tools I always say a mushroomed leather tool is a abused tool. Regards JCUK

Funny enough I had to replace some dressage billets last week the previous person who had done the, who I don't know not only machine stitched them way more than needed (not back stitched them) which led me to believe they were not sure of they were doing but also used a rivet too through the saddle webbing, never seen this before so before I started the repair I checked with the local tack shop who gave me the saddle if the owner wanted the rivets replaced too which they did, the webbing was still safe to use but I wanted a email saying the owner had said yes to the stitching and rivets before I started the repair. I meant to ask a the time of the previous thread concerning sliding reins by that do you mean draw reins. Regards JCUK The stitch used for saddle billets is called a back it gathers twice much of the webbing in one stitch. Regards JCUK

Nice work. I have to say part of the problem with certain items of tack is lots of people do not know how to fit their tack also its seems to me they want the the said items of tack to ride the horse for them at times, instead of maybe improving their own riding ability. I had one customer asking if I had a French snaffle knowing this was the latest trend at this time asked her why she wanted one she said her daughters pony was not facing the bit keeps throwing its head up. So her daughters riding instructor told her to get a French snaffle so she came to me, I did not have one at the time but could get one for her but added I don't want to sell you something you may not need she asked how so I said has the pony just started doing this she said yes about a couple of weeks, I asked when was the last time the pony had its teeth done she replied oh its six years old after five years they no longer need their teeth doing I laughed and said where did you get that info from she said people in her daughters pony club and instructors. I said they just like us they need their teeth checking and doing twice a year, as I was based where the pony was stabled I offered to go and check its teeth for her and yes they had got very sharp at the back and needed rasping, on the down side for her the cost of her getting the teeth done would maybe cost more than the bit she wanted which would have not worked either until she got the teeth done. Again I am shocked at the lack of knowledge and the B/S around the equine world most are just naive but also unfortunately there are also many that are chancers too. Regards JCUK

Yes a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing. I have turned down plenty of work which was well past its sell buy date, once had a lady who wanted her rubber reins recovered when I started working something did not seem right under one of the rubber reins it had been spliced together I said to the lady sorry I am not going to do the repair she said that's okay I take them somewhere else to get them done. I said to my other half wow that's her daughters reins that's just mad. Got me thinking about the owner of the saddle with their nice white Jodhpur's or Breeches on I have policy if I would not ride on it I would not repair it or send it out Yes it is cringe worthy, I also buy mine in from Abbey they use to carry some really good raw hide ones sadly no longer have them they were super strong no stretch either. Regards JCUK

Just because you maybe very good in a certain area of leather craft does not mean you can take on certain things, here is a prime example she maybe a excellent cobbler I don't know but she should have said no to this. People at there very least can get hurt and walk away but could also be changed for life If they survive, just because you may get away with it does not make it right so again please don't. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ksl9Xdw59E Hope this helps JCUK

A few months ago I had a local tack shop who I do so repairs for, gave me two head collars to restitch as the stitching had failed on both of them. He had sold one the customer who brought the first one back so he replaced it like for like, low and behold the second one had the same problem again brought back again, not sure if he gave them their money or what. Both were fancy head collars and machine stitched with in my opinion with to light thread, anyway i took them to my workshop as I was looking at them the stitching was unravelling before my eyes, that would never happen no matter how badly a saddle stitch had been done, even using a lighter thread. So the question is a saddle stitch stronger than machine stitch - it's a yes from me. Also in the saddlery trade you will find there are certain things that will only be hand stitched for safety reasons, that said a machine is a great time saver when time is money and for certain things its can save you hours which is a good thing for the right time and piece of work required to use a machine. Hope this helps JCUK

Nice work on the stitching without a clam, I love hand stitching things no matter how tedious it can seem to be at times once I get into it, music playing in the back round or listening to the TMS ( Test Match Special ) its Cricket commentary. What is the spi you have used. Regards JCUK

My cutting board is used only for cutting I do not use it for anything else as I know it will mark or scratch my work, so it would maybe better to get another board and use that for other things other than cutting and punching. Once I have finished cutting that board is removed from my bench same with my punching surface. Hope this helps JCUK

Have a look here shipping cost may make you think though. https://www.abbeyengland.com/hardware/locks-case-fittings/cheney-locks/ Hope this helps JCUK

Hi are you able to remove the seat from the tree if so patch it from the under side of the seat much neater fix, looking at seat the i would put a larger patch than just for the tear because looking at the area around the tear, looks fragile as well that would help strengthen that area too(saves another repair in near future) glue it onto the seat the stitch onto the skirt trim excess with skirt shave/french edger, just make sure you have allowed enough so that you can stretch it back onto the tree hopefully you will not have to stitch anymore stretching back onto the tree should hold it in place as Ron has said not a quick or cheap option but quicker and cheaper than replacing the hole seat and a much better fix than a patch on top also a good learning curve for you. The leather i would use would be pigskin or kangaroo both strong and light weight. Hope this helps JCUK Hi nice work, its been a long time since i made one i believe the chain fitting is a 1/18'' or 1/14'' pretty sure 1/18'' Hope this helps JCUK

Try here chttps://sfleather.co.uk/search?q=kangaroo+lae Hope this helps JCUK

Nice work on your knife, its also called a single head knife which seems more apt to me when you look at a double head knife they are different to a round knife. Hope this helps JCUK

I seem remember you mentioned this in another thread, but to be honest i have never seen this and i have been using it for almost 30 years now also its what we used when did my training. But as daft as it sounds i suppose there maybe a varying quality of MDF from different suppliers.

I use MDF no drag and does not dull the edge once its to cut up on one side turn it over, just remember to only use it for cutting because it will scratch your work. Hope this helps JCUK

I know of them but never had any leather from them, but think they may have a minimum order clause, a saddler i know told me they are quite pricey because i was looking at their latigo not many places here carry it. I tend to stick with what and who i know i like Sedgwick and what i get from Metropolitan. A few years ago Sedgwick nearly went to the wall Abbey and others in consortium saved them i think one was a German company cant say who though, Abbey have done that a few times Equus was another i know of. Here is a link to J.&F.J. Baker. never used them but its supposed to be really nice and strong but again pricey but nice to see a tannery still doing that way, may treat my self in the new year. Having said it was pricey not sure if their price list is up to date but it looks like its cheaper than Sedgwick so looking good for the new year me thinks. https://www.jfjbaker.co.uk

Its helps not perfect but good enough. Just remember if they are so long to hit the floor hold them enough to help the threads re-coil

When doing longer runs of hand stitching it helps if you drop both threads every now and then, it will recoil its self and then and then a quick re-wax. Hope this helps Jcuk

The links below is the type of leather i have used to make them, i used Sedgwick stirrup butts, never used John Whites but have used their bridle butts a while ago, nice leather hope it is still is. I would not go below 4.8mm also i use Metropolitan leather their heavy Bridle butts are 5mm but you have to ask for that weight. When i buy ready made billets all i do is stain the edges and mark the holes don't feel there is a need to edge shave them. https://www.abbeyengland.com/leather/stirrup-butts/ https://www.metropolitanleather.com/Buy-Leather/buy-equestrian-leather/Coloured-Old-English-Bridle-Butt Will add not trying to drum up trade for them just being honest these are my mine go to for my leather and as Metropolitan are a near enough drive i can choose the leather myself. I see Abbey also carry some Hermann tooling leather half tempted to see what it like even though i don't do any tooling should not think they have the best grade though. AA. Crack have Wickett & Craig leather also tempted, when reading on here about those two i think i would prefer Wickett & Craig. Hope this helps JCUK

No i was only saying i get them from Abbey because i was cutting mine from stirrup butts and ending up bits left over that were getting thrown in the scrape bin for later repairs but they slowly built up ended with loads of unused off cuts because they in reality probably odd lengths and could not be used for any thing other than other than splitting them down for use for making loops which i had plenty of scrape for that anyway. There might be somewhere your side of the pond that may sell them. When i first started this game i use to use a old billet as a template to mark the holes use a bigger awl for the holes only because funds were short i only had enough to buy enough tools to make a bridle, but now have a strap pricker for that job saves time, they do differ from pricking irons, i use heavy gauge tiger thread for mine its the only time i use man made thread other than if i am recovering rubber reins on the machine where i use poly, if hand stitching i use linen. When i did my training we were taught to use 6/18 linen thread doubled but i think because the saddle webbing is man made its more abrasive than the linen thread thats why i use tiger thread now but if i had no tiger would still use 6/19 linen simply because never had any issues with it. Hope this helps JCUK

Yes it can happen but its more likely it won't, maybe a rubber biscuit would help with that also i think i wound have stitched the rope as Jonas had asked just because of the feeling that rope could work loose or hardware failure so its twice secured. Another good place to source some good and hard to find hardware are ships chandlers. Hope this helps JCUK

Can i ask a question does the clamp slide through the Head collar loop freely only ask because i would be worried it would get stuck if pulled through Regard JCUK