jcuk

Nice work there, when i use the rubber grips which need leather added to the ends i use a off cut of the Bridle Butt that i have used to make the Bridle from about a inch wide, split it down to where it's light enough and pliable enough to use for the rubber grip ends. I think it finishes it off nicely, i don't do this when i am recovering worn rubber grips i may have not made the the reins in the first place (do you know the rule of thumb how many times you can recover reins). Can i ask how you are pulling the grips over the leather because i have never had it stretch i have made a lot of reins. Hope this helps JCUK

Thats some nice work there, i have used and still have some Kangaroo leather which i got from Packers who are in Australia and yes its is as tough as old boots and great to work with great for putting patches on worn parts of saddles holds up really well, did you buy the hole hide from Identity. One thing i do hope though that it is not Skippy. JCUK

My go to is a Round Knife for nearly everything, on a lighter weight i may use a clicker knife sometimes i will use a single head knife just because it was cheap and nearer to hand, my advice would be persevere with the Round Knife i know nothing else comes close to it as a all rounder i skive most weights of leather with it find better than the said skiving knives. Hope this helps JCUK Is that the Abbey Round and if so how is it.

Just another thought did you try before you buy and not consider the next size up ?

When i started this i was riding race horses for a living so my adage was and is, if i would not ride on an item of tack that i have repaired i would not put it out. Always better to err on the side of caution, just know when something is past it sell by date. And not a expert just been doing it for a long time and have seen some horror story repairs just because people get away with it does not make it right and sorry to say some customers do not want to pay for a good safe repair they get it done on the cheap even if it their own childs piece of tack. And i have refused some work only for them to say i will take somewhere else.

The wear depends on use, in racing they tend to get abused and don't last to long, small pips large pips thats up to the customer, personally i think large last longer but are not so grippy in the wet. No need to cut the ends off leave as is, you can buy some that you have put leather ends on must say i prefer them the rubber ends do tear easily at times and the leather ends look better to me. One more thing when you come to recover them rule of thumb over here is twice and then bin them save the hardware if its still ok, for racing i will only recover once and bin just because of the stress they are put under. Hope this helps JCUK

They turned out well, i hot crease once i have edge shaved, skived down down buckle turns, edge stained and burnished the edges. And i will hot crease again once i have stitched the item together and reblocked the loops and burnish again. Equus rein grips are also used in Horse Racing they tend to 3/4'' x 30'' this side of the pond, on your side 1'' is what they use and they are also a lot shorter over there if memory serves i think 18'', long time since i done some American racing tack. I will take a guess at yours 5/8'' x 24'' could be wrong maybe 3/4 x30'', Hook studs are allowed to used on horse racing tack over here, the reins are usually stitched onto the bit ring or they will have buckle billets. On a side note about Abbey England they saved Equus from going under a few years ago along with a few other companies that are vital to the saddlery industry over here, yes prices are going up which is hard to take, but i know from experience of using some other makes of rubber rein grips Equus would be a big loss. Good work again. Hope this helps JCUK

The marking on the one in the link are M.O.D. all i can say to i would take a punt on it if was me. I am sure someone on here with experience of regrinding/reshaping edges (not my field that kind of stuff scares the hell out me) will tell if it could done. Hope this helps JCUK

By any chance is this the one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195334770516?hash=item2d7adc0f54:g:DnwAAOSwXbJjD-Qy&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoKvSRHRPz8tCY%2B9BT3h97Zg0dTTj1lvqE1VosTokfWNj25Ax1dvak9eUwTvboI3owVDlbuBhIMfBmk1%2FERHDwplfg4Cc90jMLEw0sU95Ec1Cr5fw%2FX0EztOKTpYV5yxqdo9eFsbxTjwoPQWIET75XFvAaORpX1veZ78994ptllniQEXBaV3qjwnApl12CBTW3IGEqGgECLqjF0%2B29jjtqcw%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-rn5eTjYA

H. Brindley lovely old tools i have an old Martingale groover and a Skirt Shave (French edger) both great tools to use both over a century old still going strong. Tom E is correct it should have single bevel, i would and see how its works anyway if not try and get someone to correct it for you maybe you can that or get some who maybe able do it for you, if not here is a couple of links for a new knife for it just contact them to be on the safe side to if it will fit. I do know a saddler friend who replaced his old Dixon Plough Gauge Knife with one of these. https://gandmtools.co.uk/product/george-barnsley-cornish-works-sheffield-saddlers-plough-knife-80211994/ https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/plough-gauge I would check with George Barnsley if it was me. Hope this helps JCUK

Thats how i was taught and when i see them done the way you describe it always looks odd to me, its much more tidy the on the first stitch and tighter less play. Yes to stitch across the strap will weaken the strap i use to ride race horses for a living and i can tell this i would not ride a horse where the reins have been stitched across the strap and yes i seen this and said the same just because you get away with it does not make it right. Try it and see what you think. Hope this helps JCUK

I do this on all the tack i make and most i repair, if a piece of tack does not have it i will do like for like. This maybe of interest. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmgxmtkvISs I don't stitch back one i go through the first stitch mark then cross the threads and make the stitch don't pull tight then put my fixed loop butted up against the crossed thread stitch use my awl on the second stitch mark, put the needle into the second stitch mark through the loop leave it in and then pull the crossed thread stitch tight then make the full stitch and carry on stitching. And it does pull the turn nice and tight around the buckle being used. This is how i was taught by two Master Saddlers when i did my training. And things change from time to time but i am pretty certain most English style tack will have this method i am for certain the tack made in the UK will. Hope this helps JCUK

Any strap thats going to be put under any strain/stress is always better being cut up towards the back not down towards the belly. Thats why in the UK you can get Bridle Butts/ Bridle Backs/Rein Backs with the belly trimmed off. Hope this helps JCUK

This what i use for a straight edge. https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-featheredge-70/722pr Hope this helps JCUK

This may be of some use to you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUgZjMPw0AA Hope this helps JCUK

I would go for a 1'' you can cut down to the size you need, you cant add any any length if they are to short. Hope this helps JCUK

He is a couple of links maybe of interest, Short i know. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcR6LfjaFCs Hope this helps JCUK

Here a link to them, not cheap though but also they appear on eBay every now and again. https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/bulldog-pincers Hope this helps JCUK

Sorry i don't get on here much now, it can gouge but there is no drag also and once you know your leather you working with you will know how to minimise cutting to deep into it as i said once you have worn one side out just turn over. Also it does depend on you use the Round knife i have plenty of different ways of using one in my time and all of them have not been in the safest and best way i have to say. Hope this helps JCUK

I use MDF have done ever since i started many moons ago its what we used when i did my training and see no reason to change when it becomes worn and cut up turn it over. And its cheap maybe even free if your supplier has odd cut offs laying around. Hope this helps JCUK

Thats a Hollow edge shave i use them a lot i have old Dixons but did not have size One and two so got them from Abbey i believe they are made by a former employee of Dixons they work as well as my old Dixons, here are a couple of links if you are interested. https://www.abbeyengland.com/economy-hollow-edge-shave-fs072 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232937597891?hash=item363c29abc3:g:U2UAAOSwnRZbpopW I think these too are made by a former Dixon employee. The listing of George Barnsley site of what a Hollow edge shave is seems to be confused with a hollow skirt shave/french edger and one is definitely not a hollow edge shave. correct me if i am wrong. Is it just me but using a steel hammer on leather punches is all wrong a mushroomed leather punch is a misused leather punch i have never ever felt the need to use a steel hammer on my any of my leather punches. Hope this helps JCUK

This is what i use and find it very strong and durable for the racing saddles i repair. https://www.abbeyengland.com/girth-straps-rawhide-e122 https://www.abbeyengland.com/buffalo-girth-straps-e1e29 Many use this also very string but does have a tendency to stretch but does hold its over all strength also a good leather for stirrup leathers in the racing industry. Hope this helps JCUK

Yes they are chrome tanned Abbey used to sell Girth strap butts like that many moons ago here is a couple of links to what they sell these days. https://www.abbeyengland.com/chrome-butt-e1g39c A bit more refined these days. https://www.abbeyengland.com/chrome-cut-strips-1-7-25mm-e1g29a And here's what you are looking at on the old saddle probably 1mm to light for my liking, but it is very strong and durable leather many old turn out rugs used to have their metal fitting stitched on using this type of leather. Hope this helps JCUK

He is where i sit on this i would rather have the ability to stitch with a Awl then not have it because for sure if you can stitch with Awl you will be able to stitch with stitching chisels i am not saying its wrong not learning to use a Awl just saying it a good skill set to have. As to anyone who thinks its quicker to using stitching chisels i think not in a lot of cases it depends of who is doing the stitching, most tutorials on how to stitch with a Awl are slowed down to a pace where they can explain the process i bet you would been surprised how quick some can stitch and get good results, as for stitching three layers of 9/10 oz (10mm +) i very much doubt the chisels will go through three layers as someone said maybe KS Blades might do it i have looked at their chisels the blade is only 10mm in length and even if they can do it i wonder how many times you will have to strike the chisel to go all the way through and then having to pull it back out pretty time consuming me thinks, also i have seen they offer replacement blades and $5 a pop and you are responsible for round shipping cost so they must break, in some 25+ years i have never broke pricking iron, the thing i find really ironic they offer a rather expensive uncomfortable looking Awl on their sight do they know something we don't know That all being said yes i was lucky enough to been taught how to stitch with a Awl and would not have it any other way and one other thing when you are pricking your work as you go with the Awl you get a feel for the leather you are working with which you will not get with pre punched holes and i would not advise anyone who makes and repairs tack not to use chisels. Hope this helps JCUK

My thoughts exactly that will wear well.