jcuk

Here is one more for you. https://pittards.com

Have a look at these they may have something you can use. https://www.aacrack.com Hope this helps JCUK

Yes should have noticed that too glass or two of wine is the blame for that.

Nice work still using the pop stitch i see. This side of the pond Bridle Butts and Bridle Backs will have their bellies trimmed off not really used in the Saddlery industry over here. But have had some cheap Saddle Skirting from Tandy for something i was trying at the time, used the belly for fillers and liners for things it worked okay. The Shoulders can be used for Foal slips and Foal Head Collars and for Everyday Head Collars on younger Horses that don't don't need to be to fancy as long as you have the weight there for strength should be okay its also good for repairs. Hope this helps JCUK

I get mine from Abbey England. https://www.abbeyengland.com/three-loop-square-c042 These i are what i use for my better Head Collars https://www.abbeyengland.com/standard-three-loop-square-brass-st3loop There are their standard ones which i mainly use for repairs of lesser quality Head Collars The difference in quality is there to be seen especially over time, but they are not cheap and add that to the shipping your of the pond may make way to expensive, but will say i have used some in different finishes and have been happy with them too and so were my customers. That said the standard collection are okay too but do suspect they are probably the same as most i see from other places which sometimes are cheaper. Hope this helps JCUK

Ask him the name of the person who referred you. Hope this helps JCUK

Did he just show a pic of the Skiving machine or has shown any pics of the other items he is selling, reason i ask if he just showing you the skiving machine pic it could be just a random pic , but if he is showing more pics of what he is selling check that it seems they are in the same workshop or being stored in the same place at least and not just randoms pics of the things he says is selling. Hope this helps JCUK

These maybe worth contacting and asking about their tanning process, just read threw their story it may help you i have never had leather from them but know of people who have and they love it. The thing i will say it won't be cheap, i am pretty sure i have seen a supplier your side of the pond. Also maybe contact some tanneries your side of the pond they might have some kind of product suitable for your need. https://www.jfjbaker.co.uk/products-1 The part of the country where they are based is cider country more over scrumpy cider home made stuff where they don't remove the apple seeds there have been cases of people who have lost their sight and there have deaths i believe but that was because of years and years of drinking it and not it moderation i would say. Hope this helps JCUK

No because i pull the slack out through the needle, pull it tight and when i start stitching a new product it just works for me, but will have to say most of my work is usually hand stitched so not a machine expert by any means but i what i do just works. Hope this helps JCUK

Merry Christmas everyone cant mention the weather this side of the pond as real people cant afford there heating bills (####### lying Tories) lets hope the new year brings better times. Cheers everyone JCUK

When i have finished back stitching I just pull the thread level to the logo on the machine and once i have cut the thread make sure i pull it tight in the machine and have never had the problem you are having. Hope this helps JCUK

You could just add the word leather underneath using the same font. Hope this helps JCUK

You might want to take a look at sole leather i know of some companies this side of the pond that will get near 20 oz leather but they won't be cheap so take a look your side of the pond. Hope this helps JCUK

Think this might be what you are looking for, they will give you a more rounded edge rumour has it these are made by former Dixon employees https://www.abbeyengland.com/economy-hollow-edge-shave-fs072 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232937597891?hash=item363c29abc3:g:U2UAAOSwnRZbpopW&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoGdi5FZuHreiLcgcjkaSHdcL%2BXlogU0%2BOtElBAyA2wDVcEj3E2tQs4RjUikod9W3ePE9l7WZ18PuNMaIDoav9%2FuTvivv2KF%2B0o76GExiRsn7qBUH31XM42rf03MFduqgVQjKrodGzqSBNAz2HiZj73we%2BKDCRkmTFX9zOQCoBMLSvZKZIGjdvB%2FRKYW3f3RP74pFoKiiTS5qr92CmyepMyY%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5yh7Z6XYQ Hope this helps JCUK

Some nice work there. JCUK

Most of my cutting and skiving is done with a Round knife for some lighter weight leather i may use a clicker knife for cutting. So i know you have said you have looked at knife makers across the pond and the waiting time to get one, he is my take on that its is well worth the wait i have had mine around seven years it has never seen a stone yet still cuts as well as the day i got it, but with all my cutting tools i will strop before use and strop again when i am finished for the day a good polished blade will cut a lot better. Here is the maker i got mine from https://leathertools.net/shop/ i have the Texas Rosebud Round knife only mistake i made was i should have got the full fat version, very good people to deal with. The only thing is i believe he had a fire at his workshop sometime ago so not sure if he is up and running again hopefully someone on here will know if he is like i said it is well worth the wait. Here is a link to a Clicker Knife i have plus the blades i use with it the curved blade is good for cutting tight curves. https://www.abbeyengland.com/barnsley-extension-clicker-handle-fe0192 https://www.abbeyengland.com/barnsley-clicker-blade-curved-fe0194 https://www.abbeyengland.com/barnsley-clicker-blade-straight-fe0193 He is another link to a members site on here from time to time he has some nice used Knives and yes he is across the pond but don't think the wait time would take to long. https://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/knives-and-handled-cutting-tools-sale/ Hope this helps JCUK

This maybe of interest, read last comment food for thought. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTDhLlu13V0 Hope this helps JCUK

Sorry meant to ask were they 24'' or 30'' replacement grips and how many would you do machine stitching in that time.

Before i drop the panels i will mark the front of the saddle with about five straight lines using a china graph pencil or something that can easily be wiped off, this will help you when you need to line it all back up if the lines match up you are more likely to find and use the existing lacing holes which means you have not altered the alignment of the re-attached panels. (To remove the china graph i use the flesh side of some panel hide that way you don't damage the the saddle.) Hope this helps JCUK

Nice can i ask how long did take to do it by hand. And is there a reason you don't stitch over the leather cuff from the rein leather and over the rubber rein grip. Not a great pic but hope you can see. https://www.gibsonsaddlers.com/product/gibson-leather-buckle-billet-reins-gold-range-102n/ Hope this helps JCUK

Abbey England have just got back and said yes their Foundry is still up and running.

I think they are but have just messaged them to see, i have used them for certain things and was happy with the quality of the products but not cheap though. But as the saying goes you get what you pay for, i use their standard Head Collar fitting and their Foundry made ones the quality is like night and day sadly though most customers cant tell the difference all they see is the cheaper option. Hope this helps JCUK

You do know the there is a way to speed up the process of pop stitching the rein grips use a slightly larger Awl and angle the Awl towards you and away from you as you go, when i do them on large pimple grips i stitch every two pimples my guide, try to keep the stitches as even as you can because you will be stitching free hand. Also practice on an old pair thats past its sell date, the other thing is you don't have to hold the Awl at an angle hold it as if you are doing a straight stitch with no slant to it. Hope this helps JCUK

I have used both methods, what you have remember time is money doing one or two by hand might be okay but if you have few to do it will take up your time. When i pop stitch the ones with the rubber ends on, i start with a back stitch over the end at the bit end of the grips once i have stitched over the ends i start to pop stitch until i reach the other of the grip and then back stitch again over the other end. And yes i much prefer hand stitched work most of my work is hand stitched i like hand stitching. The two machines i am using at the moment are manual a Tippman Boss not a fan of nylon thread at all, must try polyester to see if it works, the other is a Pearson #6 a German version which i got from a member here, he done a fantastic job of the restoration he offered it for sale on here but just the head only i thought he made such a great job of restoration it was a shame to split the head from the treadle and he agreed to sell it as one wow what a machine. I also have a Singer 45k in storage that a good machine too. Hope this helps JCUK

Yes i can see the fixed loop. I slide the the rubber grips on using a old wire coat hook loop it around a fixed nail i slide the grips on but i was thought to slide them on using the Point and Buckle end on the reins i do this little by little holding the rein down against my bench i have never had any stretch just remember little by little also make sure there is no stress put on the crew punch hole on your Buckle rein and your buckle hole hole your Point rein. The rule of thumb this side of the pond is twice, for the reins. The reins i recover in the Racing industry i will only recover once because there is a lot more stress and abuse put on Racing tack. Hope this helps JCUK The reason for this is from a safety aspect the more holes you put in leather the weaker it becomes especially if the rubber rein grips have been machine stitched which will become a lot more perforated if you do this to many times, the chances of hitting the previous holes every time is pretty remote to say the least. Hope this helps JCUK