jcuk

Yes it can happen but its more likely it won't, maybe a rubber biscuit would help with that also i think i wound have stitched the rope as Jonas had asked just because of the feeling that rope could work loose or hardware failure so its twice secured. Another good place to source some good and hard to find hardware are ships chandlers. Hope this helps JCUK

Can i ask a question does the clamp slide through the Head collar loop freely only ask because i would be worried it would get stuck if pulled through Regard JCUK

The crease line is to give your work a more finished look. The way i was taught to make tack was to cut, mark, edge, stain, crease (Heat Crease) so when comes to stitch marking you lay the pricking iron just on the inside of the crease line as close as you can get prick the work to desired length. Once all your work is stitched re-stain and crease. Only time i have used a stitch groover was on some rolled work that was before i got the correct tool for burying your stitches for rolled work. Hope this helps JCUK

I first brought some Osborne tools about 30 years ago still have them now apart from one the Round knife the brass ferrel split so task someone if they could fix it unfortunately for me they made a complete bodge job of it so i contacted the place where i got the tools from (H. Webber and sons) about 20 years before to if they had replacement handles they ask me what was wrong and then said all Osborne tools have a life time guarantee send it back to them and they would replace it even though i told them that someone had messed the it up trying to repair it. So i did and they sent me a another one but it was no where near as good as the one i sent back like Bruce has already said the i would sharpen it and give it a good strop would not hold a edge, cutting was just okay but skiving was a pain and became bit dodgy so i put away and my better half treated me to Knipschield Texas Rosebud Round i have never had to sharpen this knife just strop and go. Fast forward a few years i went to one of my suppliers who was having an open day as they said there would be some bargains to be had and vat free too, so i went along and there was guest there you know all know him the one who does the saddle stitching videos. Anyway they also carried Osborne tools so had to have a look at those too looked at the Round because it looked different to mine pick it up felt more weighty in the hand and the steel looked better too, again as Bruce has said think they have upped there game where the knives are concerned and yes i was tempted to buy another but did hold off. The other Osborne tools i have are the American scratch compass great tool, Palm awl haft and some blades not really used them also got the leather skife pointless tool in my opinion but the star of the show is 86 splitter great tool still with the same blade. About five years ago saw a 84 splitter pretty cheap so also got that does the job but the build quality is a bit mmm the blade either side of the machine would split at different depths once you get to know it you just know which side of the blade to use, showed the blade to a farrier i know he laid it on a flat surface it was not level so quality control was not there also not so long ago brought a skirt shave you may know as a French edger its okay but no where as good as some old Dixons and Adams ones i have and not even as good as a Dixon copy i have. That being said about quality control it should be there, but think they have the same issues with that as Dixons had and maybe Blanchard are trying to compete with cheaper options coming out of the far east so as far i am concerned i will try and buy Osborne, Blanchard and Barnsley tools along with the old Dixons and other old makers which to me are proper workmen tools yes rough and ready not pretty but will do the job in the right hands. I for one would hate to see old makers such as Osborne, Blanchard and Barnsley disappear. Hope this helps JCUK

The stapler i got from eBay is this Maestri ME4000 Carpet Fitters Staple Gun at the time the list price was stupid money, but saw it on eBay something like £70 no one else bid on it so it was a steal. I see you said you make your own billets, how are you marking and making the stitching holes. I used to make mine from stirrup butts then i changed that and just brought them from Abbey, raw hide ones brought lots of them don't think they carry them now they are really strong and not so bulky another good option are buffalo billets strong too a lot of saddlers swear by them and are used a lot on race exercise saddles but prefer the raw hide ones. Regards JCUK

These may be of use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-Pa41ZUDNs Hope this helps JCUK

I attended a saddle making where instead of tacking the saddle webbing to the tree we used a stapler to attach the webbing, so i did the same had to have one only mine is electric picked up off EBAY it was a steal it does save time although not doing as much saddle work these days busy setting a new workshop up. Most of the saddles i work on are race exercise saddles they can suffer some serious neglect and abuse. Regards JCUK

Oh yes the rabbit warren of English saddles different manufacturing techniques from country to country or even just different companies, sometimes even the same make of saddle owned by two different riders can throw up some of things making you think how they have done this, been there as well scratching my head at times but as you say its an education at times and a major PIA. Good job on the repair. I am not a fan of this think its just to save a few pennies and a small bit of time. I am under the impression the riveted/screwed billet is like the spare wheel in your car it will get you home it not to be used long term if one of stitched billets have broken. Hope this helps JCUK

Maybe you could try Beet Root juice mixed with a weak coffee or tea might give you a burgundy tan its just a thought, and at the very least the Beet Root is a vegetable. Many years ago i went to a Tannery (sadly no longer with us) to pick up some Bridle backs was going to get Dark Havana and Black then i saw this burgundy tanned one had to have that too, and to this day i am convinced Beet Root play a part in the colour could be wrong though, but i will say i think its the Best Bridle leather i have ever worked with. Hope this helps JCUK

If it were me i would like one for edge staining its the one thing about this craft i find a chore yes i know there are machines out there but do seem pricey for me or maybe a robot or something that will clean up my workshop after i have finished working also put my tools away, don't know if it a age thing with me but i have seemed to have gotten lazy concerning this these days use be more organised a while ago, now just searching for tools i have not put away after use some that would be handy. Hope this helps JCUK

Pure or compound over use it and it will saturate your work. So which ever you use make sure you use it in moderation because it will loosen the fibres in the leather and in a lot of cases rendering some things useless especially in horse tack very hard to get it back to how it was, best best way i have found is neglect don't feed it with anything else for a good while and even that not fool proof. One other thing i have seen lazy people just use it to clean their tack every day after a while some horses skin started to blister in some of the places the tack came into contact with the horse skin so also be careful on that too. As for heating it yes it is best to heat only to a point where luke/tepid warm, it will help penetrate the fibres of the leather, the same way as you would re-wax a waxed jacket you heat the bees wax up or what ever solutions you maybe using. Again don't over do it either should be okay. Hope this helps JCUK

Found these not cheap, i know its an old thread but you might want to see what other tools he has for sale some interesting stuff. https://shop.shoemakercraft.com/products/seam-gauges-set-1-0-mm-15-0-mm-and-20-0-mm Hope this helps JCUK

Yes they are called bull dogs, they used to block the seat on saddles. They have been using these for a good few years over here in racing and guess what still get foot problems and your right just a gimmick in my opinion, so they can charge more even the farriers i know don't really know for sure. One thing for sure with horse owners they love the latest new thing and with some of them there's none so blind as those who do not want to see.

This might be of some use, not sure of the distance involved. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/117212-tippmann-boss/?tab=comments#comment-746162 Hope this helps JCUK

As you are looking at the Cowboy Outlaw this may be of use to you given your location to the seller. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/117212-tippmann-boss/ Hope this helps JCUK

Yes good work, just one question are there any feet on the bottom of the box if not it might be a good idea to put some on as it will save on wear and tear on the strap when setting it down on the ground or maybe even some small castors if possible. Hope this helps JCUK

I use linen thread on all my tack work was taught which size thread to use where and when, the only time i will use tiger thread is when i am attaching girth billets to the saddle webbing only because it usually synthetic webbing and feel it may be bit abrasive on linen thread, that said have used linen thread in the past for girth billets 18/6 doubled and have had no problems with it. I think nylon thread is the work of the devil horrible stuff, do use polyester through my machines if i need to use them. Hope this helps JCUK

I would check liability, if the worse case Scenario happens would it be you or your local community centre. We all know leather tools can at times be dangerous in the wrong or untrained hands. And no i am not from the nanny state but do know how these things work in todays world. Hope this helps JCUK

This side of the pond we measure the size of the leather in feet and then measure the weight millimetres confusing for some. Although have noticed some suppliers are now giving the size in feet but also will also give the size metric too.

A good few years ago i remember market traders who were still displaying and selling their product in pounds and ounces were threatened with heavy fines if they did not change to Kilos. I remember saying to my better half how can they do that when we buy petrol by the litre and yet all the road signs are in miles, i said if it was me that my argument would be until you change all the road signs to kilometres, costing millions i have no doubt, don't thing it would cut any ice with them though. Another case of double standards in my opinion. Although i can work in imperial and metric.

I think he is telling you this leather is a finished leather so no need to seal with anything. My advice would be if you want to feed it rather than seal it cut a small piece off and feed on the flesh side only to see if that would darken it but only do it lightly. I have posted a couple links to one of the suppliers this side of the pond scroll down and read what they say about the leather. It seems to me that this a trait of working this leather, it is made to age and wear that way, so if you make the same thing for two or more people depending on use they will age and wear to become uniquely theirs, as with most leathers that is the beauty of the product we work with. https://www.aacrack.com/collections/badalassi-carlo-pueblo-leather https://www.aacrack.com/products/badalassi-pueblo-oliva-1-4-1-6mm Hope this helps JCUK

With all my cutting tools i find its best to give them a quick strop before use and after use it saves a lot on time on sharpening, in fact i have never had to sharpen my edge shaves. I have some old Dixons and some copies of Dixons that i got when i first started out nearly 30 years ago never had to sharpen them. Not long ago i picked up a Palosanto from someone who was giving up the craft it was a steal, but will say i would not pay the real price for one its no where near as good my Dixons or even the copies. Hope this helps JCUK

I use these they are cheap also. There are more expensive versions but why spend more than you need to. They are smooth jawed also. https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/flat-nose-pliers/6306971000.html https://www.maunindustries.com/smooth-jaws-flat-nose-parallel-plier-140-mm/ Expensive but like the idea you can hide the needle in them less chance of an accident.

Like that warts and all it should age well. When i cut round discs i compass mark on the flesh side of the leather then you don't see the compass mark in the centre, but as said like it. He is a link which may help scroll down tub stitching chart. https://armitageleather.com/shop/ Hope this helps JCUK

This is more or less how i do mine, if you have access to a bench buffer/polisher machine you will be surprise how much that will keep a nice edge you will not need to sharpen very much, don't let the blade get to hot just a quick polish https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uUvErBUG68 Hope this helps JCUK