jcuk

I have a copy of the said book. What are you using to skive.

Yes it will be and that why sometimes its easier for me just to use the old unimproved wooden strap cutter which has served me for years, I do own a Plough Gauge, but just might treat myself to new George Barnsley left handed version in the near future being a southpaw. https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/plough-gauge Hope this helps JCUK

This may be of some use. https://www.abbeyengland.com/basil-hide-nappa-e1k1 Hope this helps JCUK

Sorry should have said i have the Stockton one used it for thirty years paid for its self and then some. Funny enough i got from a Australian company while i was working in the middle east (STC) they don't carry it now just checked. JCUK

I have noticed this with different brands hand stitching thread too. Some of the threads look like they are weight down from what they should be. Hope this helps JCUK

I have both wood and metal versions much prefer the wooden one i find the metal one tends to slip more meaning it is set at inch and a half you find its starts out ok then by the end it may have slipped slightly to a inch and five eights funny thing even before i have finish cutting i can already see its has started to cut the strap wider. I know this happens to some with the wooden version too but i just tighten the thumb with my hand and then one half turn with pliers it never slips. Hope this helps JCUK

Every now and then i sharpen my kitchen knives using my stone, strops i use for my leather knives and other leather cutting tools i just make sure i give them a good wash after and i am still here so it works for me. Hope this helps JCUK

This maybe of use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwnN_b01_M8 Hope this helps JCUK

Not sure where you located but these may have something for you or give you an idea of what to look for. https://www.aacrack.co.uk https://www.metropolitanleather.com Hope this helps JCUK

You sure you did not go back after the roofer had gone for some more

Now i thought you were going to say you got it from a church roof or maybe more than one.

You want to have a whiff of leather tanned in India or Pakistan and i am not going to into what it may have been tanned in as i have said in another post, when i have had the misfortune to have work with it, i make sure i give my hands a good wash after i have finished.

I have used both methods both work ok i prefer the blade on top for of the roller if pushed for preference think it works better for lap skives for me anyway. Hope this helps JCUK

Yes they can fiddly or a pain in the rear end if have not done one in while that narrow, this is my method once i have fitted buckle the buckle end is tacked with one tack in the second from last stitch mark and one in the stitch mark just after the width of your fixed loop (i never tack my loops in place) i hold the fixed loop be stitched against the stitch marks about half half thickness of the strap and with my awl i put a slight mark there so i know it will not go in to far therefore knowing you left enough room for the other end of the loop to fit in. Once i have done my cross stitch not pulling it tight i place the loop in down to the mark i have made i prick the second stitch through the loop and hole and buckle turn and when i push the needle through from the opposite side of my work i stop leaving the needle half way though then i give a little pull on the loop to make sure it has been caught then stitch all the way back up to where the other end of the loop is to be stitched in place. I put a little fold in the loop put in place i slightly angle my awl up a bit into the loop and then pull it back straight with loop now being pulled into the buckle turn - hope that makes sense and then do the same in the next stitch mark so it will pull the loop level all this can be done by angling your work in your clam or the way i do it put it the full width of your on strap in your clam but with enough of your work sticking either end of your clam depending which side you are stitching ie being left handed at the start it will on the front end of my clams and then the rear of my clams at the finish. The other thing i have just noticed is your buckle turn is the opposite way round to the way i was taught, i stitch mark on the flesh side of my work and split down the grain side that way you are not trying to find your stitch marks under the loop.(I do not pre prick any of this.) Here a link on how the hold your work in the clams better than how i have tried to describe it i think yes the strap is wider than yours but it out over the edge at the start and finish and angled at other times. Around 18 min mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uuj6ObdTjjs Sorry for the long winded reply but hope this helps JCUK

Sorry just seen i did not add the link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uUvErBUG68 Hope this helps JCUK

No worries just added two more.

Yes looking good i think

Its a old compass race use for cutting a slight channel for stitching think most use a stitching groover these days https://www.fenlandtools.com/product-page/saddler-s-compass-race https://www.abbeyengland.com/economy-screw-race-g--race--screw Another kind of race https://www.abbeyengland.com/economy-double-race-g--race--dbl https://www.abbeyengland.com/economy-single-race-g--race--sng Hope this helps JCUK

Nice work there

Unfortunately thats something we all have to live with, there are certain countries that have tanneries producing so called veg tan that have dubious tanning methods i will not going into some of the things they use in there tanning process, but your nose should be your guide and yes i have repaired some tack made with it and made sure i gave my hands a good wash afterwards, and the repair was done using good quality English bridle leather - kind of a crime i thought as some of the repairs were worth more than the hole item i was repairing at times. (cheap imported tack)

Bonded leather you decide, I know what think https://www.worldofleathers.com/leather-guide-and-info/the-difference-between-bonded-leather-vs-genuine-leather/ Hope this helps JCUK

I know this is for a Osborne 84 splitter but the method will be pretty much the same just to add more often than not give it a good strop every now and then it will help keep it in good working order meaning less time spent on sharpening, a good polished blade works a lot better. This method is pretty much the same way as i sharpen both my splitter blades. Help this helps JCUK

This maybe of some use to you. Just be careful in you decide at sometime to skive heavier leather with a skirt shave (french edger) make sure its sharp and well stropped. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zwnN_b01_M8 Hope this helps JCUK

On some of my larger Crew punches i put a mark in the centre of the punch on either side, easier to line up the where you have marked the leather for your crew punch hole. I use a permanent marker for this. Hope this helps JCUK

If it was me it would be the Campbell-Randall if i did not have funds i would still wait until i had enough, much better investment in the long run it will hold its value a lot more than the Tandy one as some have already said here they have got cheaper knock off versions that may have been made by the same people as the Tandy one. The Campbell-Randell is a much better tool for doing lap skives look at the video of the Tandy one where they attempt a lap skive and judge for your self, it has more usable cutting area meaning if you don't split every thing on the same part of the the blade every time, less time sharpening and stropping although the max i have split in one go is 4'' and thats only after i have given it a sharpen and good strop. I have a Osborne 84 and a 86 like them both yes have split 4'' on both. Hope this helps JCUK