jcuk

Sorry about this but there is another option, when working with sharp tools rule one always remember which is the sharp end. Hope this helps JCUK

Sorry can't resist, Who Killed Bambi https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cu_0h2GZXJQ JCUK

Ι will kinda go against the flow here, and I know many people won't agree with me, but don't buy more tools. Trust your hand and your eye, and if you don't, keep practicing until you do. It will give you confidence to do many things throughout this (and any) craft and it will often get you out of tight spots. I firmly believe our hand-eye coordination is the most important tool and just like any other tool it also needs honing from time to time. By all means try different things if it's easy and practical to do so but keep in mind that the perfect cutter might actually not exist Thats the rule with most leather working hand tools, try not to over think things, being a southpaw i have a lot of tools that are right handed so took a lot of practice and wasted a lot of leather along the way but sometimes that the nature of the beast. Hope this helps JCUK

Maybe something on this page may help. https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/papercraft/die-cutting/die-cutting-machines Hope this helps JCUK

Again a bit off topic yes the expression cut the corners off s 50 pence piece but nowadays people are trying to cut the corners off a 10 pence piece, cutting corners where there are no corners to cut shoddy working practices at times just to get the job done as fast as they can with no care or attention. JCUK

I have the the Texas rosebud only mistake i made was should have got the full fat version the Texas rose. Playing around to day skiving lighter weight leather usually use a english style paring knife found i could better and easier with Terrys knife. JCUK

I was searching for some leather earlier today leather that i don't usually need or use so went to a web-site of a supplier i don't normally use discovered this. It's maybe of interest to some this side of the pond. https://www.aacrack.co.uk/tanneries/wickett-craig.html Hope this helps JCUK

Thanks for that i was wondering too. Hopefully everything will being up and running for him sooner rather than later. Fantastic knife i got from him 4 years ago never been near a stone yet. JCUK

We all should know by now there is always one. JCUK

All you need to know is here, https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/36221-how-to-make-a-strop-for-knives/ Funny enough i have just made myself another strop using pretty much the same method only i used Tandys saddle skirting leather managed to run 4'' width through my pull through splitter and no did not give myself a hernia, just did not try to take to much off in one go, made it a double sided strop.Only i loaded mine the traditional way for saddlers in the uk Hope this helps JCUK

These may help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbQZt_VduEI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dej8BH1DFgs Hope this helps JCUK

I have a routine with my round knife, before i use it i give it a good strop and at the end of the day no matter if i have cut one strap or a hundred i will strop it again. With any of my cutting tools i strop them before i use them, very rarely sharpen anything on a stone apart from my splitter blade which i sharpen on a stone and strop and polish when ever i feel it not cutting how i know it should. Tools like a Skirt shave/French edger really do need to be sharp to use at best they will mess up your work if dull at worse might mess up the user. JCUK

No in the 25 years i have had them must have only used them 25 times. Use my round knife for most things for some lighter leathers i use a clicker knife and yes i find them better than X-acto knives as well. The only thing i use my Stanley knife ( box cutter ) is to cut old stitches out for repairs. JCUK

I have a set of X-acto knives that are 25 years old never had to change a blade they are as sharp as the day i got them would you like to know the reason why ? JCUK

Hello You can use sheep nappa leather, i line with neoprene. I also have lined with patent leather too 0.8mm to 1.2 mm with either leather. Hope this helps JCUK

I have 2 round knives would not be without them one is four years old never been near a stone also have a single head knife don't know what make it is cuts as well as the day i got 25 years ago cost £13, think i would have spent more on throw away blades in that time once you get to know how to use one you will know why they are the go to knife for most saddlers/leather workers. Hope this helps JCUK

Should not be a problem just make sure you keep it nice and sharp and keep your free hand behind the cutting edge many saddlers/leatherworker have a healthy respect for this tool. These are my Skirt Shaves/French Edger take a close look at the edges one has chip out of it works fine the older two are Dixon adjustable Skirt Shaves never seen them before so brought them didn't realise they are for right handed people me being a leftie, can get them to work but it looks and feels odd they are great for setting the depth of the amount leather you want to skive. Hope this helps JCUK

No not really its means the leather pulled into a shape over the tree to form the seat until you are happy with it, but it will retain its shape if you remove it from the tree seems for some works better some its just a way you may want to test for your self to see if its works for you. JCUK

I have seen chrome tanned saddle seats block out using luke/tepid warm water with a little bit of washing up liquid in it. Hope this helps JCUK

I use this does smell a bit just leave my workshop door open works well. https://www.abbeyengland.com/441-contact-adhesive-490.html Hope this helps JCUK

Better chance of hitting existing stitch marks on repairs it's not going to get away from you, i have three machines a singer 45k in storage somewhere never really got to grips with it lays down a nice stitch though. Also have a Tippmann Boss don't really use it much can be mare at times but once you have set up right it also lays down a nice stitch have used it for control of the above said hitting existing holes reason i don't use it much not a fan of bonded nylon thread believe some do run polyester thread through them not tried it myself. The third machine i have, i got from a member here Constabulary his great restoration of the DVSG/Pearson no6 this machine is the one i should have got years ago when i had the chance and yes i know all three machine are built to handle heavier work. Thats why when times times get a bit better for everyone the Tippmann Boss maybe for sale in the near future. As its not for sale just yet hope i have not broke rules of the site. And i am also a big fan of hand stitched work most of my work is hand stitched but a few jobs are tedious and you can't charge a the hourly rate for them because customers can just buy new cheaper hence the need for a machine for certain things. One job used to take me anything between 11/2 to 2 hours even with a manual its around a 1/3 of the time now and what the job is makes no sense doing it by hand nobody really would notice or care its hand stitch or not. Hope this helps JCUK

Try something along this line, mine was cheaper don't even know what make it is but a bonus for me its left handed https://www.georgebarnsleyandsons.co.uk/product-page/screw-crease Hope this helps JCUK

Depends of the quality of your creaser been using a blowtorch for 25 years until recently still good as new.

Have you ever had the misfortune to come across leather from India/Pakistan if you have then you will know what smelly leather is, tanned in urine and gods knows what else i will leave you to guess what the gods else is. JCUK

Yes it can but it does not matter what you use that can still happen, you get to know how long to keep it on the heat until recently i was using a blowtorch same deal just took less time to get it to the required heat i wanted, just get to know how long to keep under the flame if i think it is to hot I just wait around ten seconds and its fine. Hope this helps JCUK