jcuk

Hi i can see the merit in this as stitching chisels do seem to help people who want to start leather working, they can produce a decent looking stitch in a very short time and it does seem the the chisels are improving all the time. So it is good way in for people who are interested in this wonderful craft to take it up and have a go without have to have some sort of formal training which at times can be expensive. Oh yes, you do know which camp i sit in as far stitching chisels v pricking irons i sit in, that said i am not anti stitching chisels they do have there place in this craft but there are parts of this craft i would not recommend they be used. Hope this helps JCUK

Hi there, here are a couple of links that may help you with your choice of thread weight to your spi, as the thread you are already using is heavy, 7/9 spi - pricking irons will make it hard to achieve the look of the stitches you want. You may want to come down a thread size or come down with your spi for your pricking irons. https://www.reddit.com/r/Leathercraft/comments/4vn23x/guide_to_thread_sizes_and_stitches_per_inch_spi/ https://www.reddit.com/r/Leathercraft/comments/4vzgk4/visual_representation_of_thread_sizes_and/ Also you say a shop close to you sell Blanchard awls , do they also sell Blanchard pricking irons too? if so they would be a good choice of irons to go for, expensive i know but will last more than a lifetime and if you decide you do not want to carry on with leatherwork - there is always a good market for good quality used tools. As you have already stated you like to stitch using an awl. Can i ask what it is you are stitching with such heavy thread. Hope this helps JCUK

I can't imagine a customer asking me to make them a hand stitched triple stitched triple layered full size head collar out 4mm plus leather and have to punch and line up every layer of each piece of the full sized head collar so I can stitch it , time consuming to say the very least! It would wear pretty thin with me in no time at all and then have to charge them extra for the extra time it took to do so. As Ken has said if you learn to use your tools correctly it a lot easier in the long run. I have had my pricking irons 25 years plus don't even know what make they are and i do not feel the need to purchase a new set of stitching chisels every time a new ones come because the ones i brought last week are already out of date. Another thing to consider with stitching chisels is the fact that you are punching all the way through the leather you will have to to maintain the the cutting edge as you do with any other punch more work in the long run. Hope this helps JCUK

Hi again What i was going to suggest was, to punch a single layer; assemble your work and use your awl to pierce through the remaining layer/layers. It would be a good way for people who are not to adept with using an awl to learn to saddle stitch, maybe you can still punch through the top layer and still do this. Don't try to punch all the way through all the layers as I don't think it would come out to well. I brought some stitching chisels just to see what the fuss was about, i get the impression they are designed for lighter to medium work I rarely use them if ever. Most of my work is saddlery so a lot of it is heavier work using traditional methods such as using old style pricking irons so no pre punched holes in your work and yes much prefer to them. Sorry can't be of more help only maybe next time try punching through one layer first and then glue. Hope this helps JCUK

Hi there can you tell me how thick a single layer of leather you are going to stitch? and what type of chisels are you using ? make or pic would help. All the best JCUK

Hi there, I agree with the previous answers i am assuming you mean neats foot oil if, so correct me if you are already doing this, but are you slightly heating the neats foot oil up a bit to around tepid or maybe slightly more it will help it penetrate the fibres better? Hope this helps JCUK

Hi i also have made many belts from skirting leather ( Tandys light weight skirting leather ) split it down to the weight i wanted dyed and sold them with no problem at all.Even made one from the the full length of the hide for a waist size of 30" split it to weight down to about 3mm punched the crew punch hole where i would normally do for 30'' belt Church window punched one end marked the stitches doubled over and stitched trimmed excess leather once it was stitched worked a treat for me. I know some might think 6mm for a belt maybe to heavy but it was for a work belt. Hope this helps JCUK

Hi have you looked at this site may have what you are looking for if not contact them may know some where that can help. https://aaronmartin.com/index.html Not sure if this is what you are looking for. https://aaronmartin.com/product.php?cat_id=1534&submit=View&catview=20&s=Harness Maker Tools&catview2=&catview3=&s2=&s3= Hope this helps JCUK

Hi again you may want to look at Tandys EU site the irons are on offer not sure how much shipping would be but could work out cheaper for you. https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/craftool-fine-diamond-chisel-3-5-mm As for keeping the 8 prongs straight instead of of placing the iron into the last last stitch mark go back 2 and place it there it should help you keep it straight. The more expensive pricking irons from Abbey are more traditional irons used in the saddlery trade so using your awl to stitch if i was in the market for new irons think i would give them a try should be good enough to last a life time and some. Hope this helps JCUK PS you may want to order before the 31st January if you go with Tandy think you know why

Hi there, would you not be better getting the 8 prong chisel? If you use the 2 prong chisel you already have twice there's your 4 prong just a thought. Also have you looked at Abbeys new pricking irons look ok for the price although i have not used them. Here is a couple of reviews https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKjidt-4gr8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHP-nM2YAAs Hope this helps JCUK

This maybe what you are looking for. https://www.abbeyengland.com/nulene-polycord-305m-roll-5969.html Hope this helps JCUK

Hi just to say Razzy contacted me with this job thinking i was base in Newmarket Ontario when in fact i am based in Newmarket UK, i said to him it would easier and cheaper to get soone the other side of the the pond to do the job for him. If no-one is willing to do the work i will take it on although never having made one before, but pretty sure i could do the work. But thought i give someone the chance of some work that is closer, and easier for everyone if it works out. Hope this helps JCUK

Sorry can't resist did it come with handy little knife with all the tools you need to restore it. Hope this helps JCUK

Oh sorry you want that model give Abbey or Le Prevo a ring Hope this helps JCUK

Thanks for the offer Matt i have too much leather to store in my workshop so have to store it in my living room wife not to happy about it. So having to work through what i already have. Cheers JCUK

Yes that's how i was taught to push the needle through would not want to do that wit nice fancy handle, even if i had one with nice handle just force of habit would make me do it still do it because saves time. Hope this helps JCUK

You sure just been to my account at Abbey added it to my basket nothing saying out of stock. JCUK

Here are some places https://www.abbeyengland.com/strap-cutter-10215.html http://www.leprevo.co.uk/photos/strap-cutter.html Hope this helps JCUK

You can email them for a price list that's how i got one from them, or phone or fax them yes, i did say fax them ! Yes have heard nothing but good things about their leather, I keep saying - may treat myself to some, but i have supplier about 40 minutes away where i can go and select the leather i need for myself. http://www.jfjbaker.co.uk/contact-us/ Hope this helps JCUK

I have never seen English bridle leather at 6.5mm the heaviest bridle butts/backs i have used have been 4mm to 5mm from various suppliers. I have never used Bakers leather myself but have checked their web site even there stirrup butts are 4.5mm to 5.5 mm, Harness backs are the same 4.5mm to 5.5mm 6.5mm bridle leather seems very strange to me also think it would be a bit of a pain to make an English bridle, pulling rubber rein grips over 6.5mm leather reins may take a bit of an effort. Also aesthetically it would look odd to maybe that's just me as i make a lot of English style bridles. I agree with Matt S contact Bakers to see what they have to say about it also they may shed some light on what you have been sent, again think Matt could been right about it being belting leather. Hope this helps JCUK

Not sure if this would be of any use to you being the other side of the pond https://www.abbeyengland.com/abbey-foundry/ Hope this helps JCUK

Hi this might be what you are looking for https://www.abbeyengland.com/cotton-15oz-canvas-0-9m-2984.html Hope this helps JCUK

You might want to have a look at a Plough Gauge as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWDYPytDVu4 You can get other makes such as old Dixons for sale on ebay, also you can buy new ones like Verez Blanchard and George Barnsley. I have also seen them on Bruce Johnson from time to time, you might want to read what he has said about them on his site. Hope this helps JCUK

Hi there Drop Abbey a email ask them about this leather its, what is used on English style saddle seats it may work for you, i know that you are the other side of the pond but you may have a supplier of Pittards leather or something similar that side of the pond. Have a look at the cruiser line that may work for you, i will say it that it will not be cheap. https://www.abbeyengland.com/pittards-panel-hides-7705.html Hope this helps JCUK

I rarely glue my work but have used double sided tape ( Tandys, when it was on offer ) you can get the same stuff from any craft shop. Found it worked ok. If you 're worried about it showing on the edges, cut it narrower- then your work should not be seen. Hope this helps JCUK