Constabulary

scrap in quotation marks - leftovers is probably the more correct word You are right - they don`t ship the controllers to the US But I´m sure you will find similar controllers on ebay.com too. EDIT: There you go: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110-220V-2000W-SCR-Voltage-Regulator-Dimmer-Speed-Temperature-Controller-FT-/282184459457

You have to post pictures - no one can imagine how your set up looks likes. So when the mess is happening on the thread spool I would try a boot sock netting and / or give more tension on the on the bobbin winder pre tension unit or has your machine a built in bobbin winder w/o pre tension? Sorry but we only can guess with out seeing pictures.

Thanks The netting is called thread sock. http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Thread-Sock The 45k winder still needs some fine tuning - namely a rubber tire on the pulley - but other that that it´s working very well. Both wind nice and even.

Ha ha - for suuuure! But I´m kind enough and would leave one for Wiz Wiz, maybe we can convince Eric that we will "dispose" them properly.

and 45K winder:

So here are my 2 versions of an DIY electric bobbin winder. One is for 111 type bobbins and the other one for 45K (and similar) barrel type bobbins. Being honest at the first I was not convinced that I would need these stand alone bobbin winders at all - due to the table / machine mounted v-belt driven winders I have. But after I thought I could make one from "scrap" parts I have floating around + some "china bits" I had to order I gave it a try... Well, meanwhile I don´t use the other winders anymore... After I was done with the 1st winder I was thinking of adding a micro switch to shut down the motor when the bobbin is full but then decided its not really necessary (would still be a nice featured but... well, maybe later) and the plain switch is working fine. Instead of a foot pedal I have installed a speed controller "on board" so I can pre dial the most comfortable speed (motors have 4000rpm ). The controllers and plastic housing can be found dirt cheap on Ebay. Housing: http://www.ebay.de/itm/152131518287 110 V / 220V Controller: http://www.ebay.de/itm/391609751588 111 winder:

If you have no use - I take em and will dispose then environment friendly

old cloth timing belts may last longer than expected - I have a Singer 111WD (Made in Germany from before 1945 - a barn find + used as garden decoration) and its still has its cloth timing belt in good working condition where as the machine externally is poor. Your machine has the old stitch length adjuster on the end of top the drive shaft near the hand wheel. Thats for sure not state of the art but it works but the machine also has no reverse. Unless you like vintage machines and like tinkering I would not buy even it if is cost more than maybe 150 - 200. But I really like the nice big table - that could be worth $100 or more alone. The mentioned Juki and Consew are for sure the easier to work with machines. However I personally would buy the machine if it is real cheap since I like old machines and tinkering very much but thats not everybody´s cup of tea. If I were in your position I would choose the Juki LU-563

I think they are as good as other machines but I have my very own opinion. They may be more effective in use but I think on the long view direct drive machines are more expensive than machines with separate motor. Reason why I think this is you have to turn in the entire machine when (one day) the motor is broke. When you have a separate motor you just buy a new motor install it and you can use the machine within a few hours or maybe a few days (when buying online). And most likely these directs drive motors are not "universal" (like most separate motors). So most machines / machine brands (probably) have their own "dedicated" motor (I think) and and there will be a day when a company no longer supplies spare parts (or motors) for their "older" machines. There may be after market motors but finding them and adapt them for your machine could cost some $$$ and time. An on top of that we all know (or have heard) of planned obsolescence... at least something one should think about before buying a direct drive machine (or other electronic controlled devices). Don´t get me wrong - I do not say direct drive is bad - not at all - my opinion just is that on the long view separate motors are more economic. Just my 2 cents - others may have a different opinion but I (personally) would not buy a direct drive machine. It of course depends on your output and if you can write off / depreciate a machine like this. But I think most of the small business folks will keep their machines for years (or even decades) and cost efficacy for sure is something you have to consider - especially as a small business. and now throw the pooh to me...

What bobbins are you winding? Standard bobbins (like Singer 111) or barrel type bobbins (like Singer 445K or 441 type machines? You probably have to adjust the position of the tension unit on the winder or maybe in crease the tension.Could be poor thread too. Post some pictures please.

BTW - since you are in Sweden I´d check with College Sewing in the UK, thats where I bought my 29K parts: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/82167-FEED-MOTION-BELL-CRANK-LEVER-SINGER-29K And this is their 29K parts list - but not all of them fit for any 29K model... https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/Singer29K,29USewingMachineParts

With my 29K71 I´m very very close to 5SPI but when I make 20 stitches (21 holes) and measure I´m a bit below 5SPI. I´m very very please with this result! Investing in a new feed motion BCL is worth every cent. @ Oldtimer - when you buy a new BCL you nowadays find them for "more modern" 29K71 /29K73 and the like and they will fit your earlier 29K (29K1, 29K3, 29K4, 29K33 and so forth) model too when you modify them a little bit. I had to grind down some spots but that was no big deal. Do not buy used BCL only because some one sells it for exactly your machine model since they are (most likely) a bit worn already. When the BCL is new the round tip has approx 5mm in diameter

yes, the bell crank lever has a huge influence on the stitch length but the feed motion ring as well when it is worn (thats the other part you see in 1st and 2nd picture)

Yeah but I heard that sewing machine folks are totally nuts

HOW FREAKIN COOL IS THAT? I was not even thinking of that as a DIY. Maybe an idea for making "blue guns" for holsters out of aluminum or brass (cartridge shells?) Male weekend: drink dozens of beer - make fire - melt beer cans - use foundry for grilling some sausages - drink more beer - melt more beer cans - cast blue guns What else do we need, Beer, barbecue, fire, guns

or maybe "someone" can make a mold of alginat (or the like) and then make a silicone or rubber reproduction and can send to you EVO so that you can let it sand cast (if possible and affordable) - maybe just a stupid idea....

thats the one but the wear on other parts may have an influence on the stitch length too. But basically a new bell crank lever improves the stitch length but it most likely will not bring your machine to the full 5SPI. I yet have not seen a used (or even restored) 29K with full 5SPI.

I knew I´m observed here... When the skiver is running as expected feel free to post some pictures from that journey but in a new thread then.

I once restored a 29K1 so this thread may be useful for you:

Hoped you´d jump in here, Eric! Thanks a lot! Very much appreciated! So when the rest of the gauge sets arrive I will cut the NBRF and NB if necessary. I however may have one or two more questions later. Again - Thanks a lot!!!

Hi Tor - well Depends on the point of view A "Singer Dude" (heard there are a few out there ) could argue that the Adler system is "cheating" with the front and back stitch length while the Singer system is more accurate... My 45D is hitting front and back in the same hole like a dream - no cheating with adjusting limiter screws necessary - If you know what I mean. At the end it does not matter as long as it works. Both systems for sure have their right to exist. Textima Skiver was a bit a challenge but thats a different story. Excellent engineered machine - fully gear driven, haven´t seen a skiver like this before. First skiver I worked on and seems it is running well again. I was not able to test run it but thats another different story (not telling here since Gigi is watching me )

Now that I see the pictures I wonder if the 3/8 needle holder will work at all since it is a bit wider than the 1/4"... it may hit the casting.... Soooo is someone out there who successfully has installed a flip up needle holder on a Singer 212 or similar Juki, Seiko or what ever brand?

I´m pulling this old thread again. I´m just about installing flip up double needle holder son my 212G141 and I figured they do not work - I have in stalled a new threaded needle bar (had to cut the old one as the original needle holder won´t come off) and just received the holders (1/4 + 3/8 gauge). Installing is no problem BUT the needle bar rock frame is to long as it seems. Pictures show NB at TDC and BDC so the only way would be cutting down the needle bar rock frame, right? I have checked the parts list and G140 and G141 have the same NBRF. In this add the G141 is not mentioned but the G140 and G145 So is the add wrong or the parts list? I don´t think I will find a shorter NBRF for a decent price (machine was a bargain). So my solution would be cutting the NBRF and use (probably) a shorter needle. Or do I overlook something - I don´t think so.

if you want to give it away for free I take it If not College Sewing has the belts: https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/263515-TOP-FEED-BELT-SINGER https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/263506-ROLLER-DRIVE-BELT-SINGER

This is the "stitch length limiter" and the small lever is for locking it. The stitch length adjuster in this case is technically just a forward and reverse lever. You find it on some other Singer machines with reverse too not only on 45K´s. Its just a different type f.i. the Adler 4, 5 later 104 + 105 f.i. had screws and wing nuts for limiting the top and bottom stitch length but you had to regulate top and bottom separately. Singer did this with just one screw and lock lever which to me looks a bit more "discreet".