Constabulary

I was not thinking.... I have a 132K on my shelf waiting for "modification" and it has a nice clear original decal - I will take pictures later and take some measures....

WOW - well done Tony the font looks awesome!!!

Maybe this helps you a bit: http://www.siruba.co.uk/partsls2d324.htm

Sure it´s personal preference I just wondered why spending so much time on decal details. Seems I had a weak moment - I should have been understanding - or it was too early in the morning . But of course the crackle coating makes it more difficult to apply. I think you really need a quite thin foil to "squeeze" the foil into the crackles. Even better would be some sort of "no foil decals" or what ever it is called. Is there probably some sort of gold flake / gold paint based decal foil you can run through a laser printer? BTW - I tried VHT crackle spray paint - takes looooooooooong time to dry but when you put the painted part into an oven or apply heat it crackles even better (unfortunately I do not have a sewing machine size oven) Will do some more testing. A lot seem to depend on how thick you spray on the single coats.

How close do you want to come? If you want a 100% restoration you already started with the wrong paint - I doubt (but who knows for sure) crackle coated 45K ever came with floral decals. So everything you do can only be a compromise or you just restore it "the way you like" and then most likely this machine will not look like the day it left the factory back in 19xx.... Its well possible that my decals were meant for bent wood cases but I do not know. But honestly - I would not spend too much time on decals. And before a machine looks stupid fancy I´d leave out the floral design. But thats just my point. When a sewing machines comes in a nice original finish (no worn or chipped off paint and decals and the like ) I would not change it but when you have to strip the paint anyway and de-rust parts and stuff I´d just make it look better than I found it and would not waste too much time because I KNOW it will never look as factory new again. It can look like new but not 100% original just like the day it left the factory. I usually paint my restored machines silver and add some sort of good looking decals. some samples of my "restoration crimes" - some like it some don´t - I do I put them in a condition I could sell the machines in just the other day because I never know if a better looking or better working or better for my needs better suiting machine pops up just around the corner - if you know what I mean. Some like worn looking machine that show their age - I don´t. If my machines shows signs of use It should be my signs.

Agree - BUSMC PILOT needle feed only machine, no feed dog. Machine has a barrel hook but of a bit different type compared with Singer 45K and the like. I also do not agree that any makers stamp or what ever has been removed. I have a manual + parts list for this machine I probably can scan it in the days to come (if you want to buy this machine). I would buy this machine in a heart beat if the price is right. I once missed one here in Germany - too bad. This actually is a British made machine - you should find IVI markings on the some machine parts (Hallmark of IVI Metallics, Leicester). These machine were sold by DVSG = Deutsche Vereinigste Schumaschinen Gesellschaft (German counter part of BUSMC = British United Shoe Machine Company). Could be the machine has been assembled in Germany but when the machine parts have IVI markings the parts for sure came from Great Britain. The original needle sytem is TS 883 - obsolete I guess - but I would assume that you can use 328 needles (very common) but I´m not 100% sure about it. Parts are no longer available but some old stock may exist f.i. at our LW member SINGERMANIA in Australia or maybe some dealers in the UK. But if this machine is in fully working condition you most likely will not need parts. These machines are tanks and will last almost for ever.

No manual with the machine? Are you sure you threaded the machine correctly? Since you bought it new (I guess its new) I´d check with the dealer first when I have problems with a new machine. These machines are China clones of singer 29K - so I´ll ad a 29K manual here. Should be pretty much the same with difference of the thread regulator (AFAIK). Usually bottom tension should be quite low but you should feel a light resistance when pulling the thread when shuttle is correctly threaded. The rest is playing with the upper tension. EDIT: http://www.leathermachineco.com/product/cobra-class-29-18-patch-machine/ Dealer site says up to #22 needle so max. should be 138 thread. I have the "original Singer 29K71" but that's the short arm version of your machine and yes I can run 138 thread top and bottom. 29K_Operators_Guide.pdf

I have some System 214 (328) needles in sz. 27 (250 metric) with S Tip, Round Tip and LL tip but. But I´m on the other side of the pond... But I´d check with Toledo Sewing Machines or Keystone Sewing Machines, I´d guess they have what you need.

downloaded it with FF add on: Video DownloadHelper - its very easy to use.

put a bottle opener on one end them its no longer "weapon"

this thread is almost 1 year old - I´d contact the seller directly by PM and check if the machine is still available

yesterday the media player on the website did not work - today it does - at least on my end - I will try to download the film for my records. Really worth watching!!! applying decals starts at minute 16:32.

Is it a new or old casting Pfaff 335? Old casting 335 clones with large bobbin you find on my side of the pond for approx. 1000€ incl sync. binder bracket - not sure how the market in the US is but Altlas Levy is offering this type of machine too: http://www.atlaslevy.com/-Cylinder-arm-walking-foot-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-AT335_p_4148.html Its of course a "private label" machine but I doubt there are many differences since most of the "modern" machines come from China anyway. Don´t expect the Pfaff 335 to be made in Germany - these days are gone! I would guess the Jukis are still made in Japan and that would make them pricier I think (though not sure, are they still made in Japan?)

my original decal are actually gold foil - I once applied one to a cast iron table just for testing them - did not turn out very well. Thats why I never used them. When the right machines turn up and will maybe try again.

its an Adler 9 embroidery machine

Hi Tony, well reproductions are reproduction - nothing is as good as the original. I don´t dare using my vintage original decals. Maybe one day when I found the "one and only" Singer machines I may try applying them but most likely I won´t. Not many original decals have survived I think. But when your decals turn out nice I´m sure some folks here would be interested if they are affordable.

maybe these files will help you: Singer 132K Manual.pdf Singer 132K 132B26.pdf

4" Blanchard is sold The other one could be a Meyer-Flamery mfg. and is still available. Made a mistake reg. shipping - the 6" is heavier thank the 4" So shipping to EU locations is: 15€ and worldwide 19.50€

You hit the nail

hobbling foot is not an official term of course it was just to "draw a picture" - like someone who pulls behind his leg (I probably don´t have the correct english term for this ) . The foot rests on the feed dog and applies some pressure, the the feed dog pulls the foot while feeding the material and when the stitch is done the foot jumps back... because its spring loaded. 13K6 has a similar system but is of course is a much heavier machine.

16 is a typical garment sewing machine needle (originally comes from Singer Class 16 machines) - that's why it is quite short. DBx1 is another and maybe more common nomenclature for this needle as well as 1738, 287 or 563. This needle has a shank diameter of 1.63mm. MAYBE you can use a different needle system in the needle holder (depends on the needle holder type) but you have to try it. Maybe a 135x7 could fit but is has a 2mm shank diameter. The next longer it the needle 135x17 - same 2mm shank diameter but 5mm longer than the 135x7. If you use a longer needle you have to raise the needle bar by the amount the needle is longer and check the needle hook timing again. The leather point for 135x7 is 135x6 and for 135x17 it´s 135x16 Check with College sewing in the UK - I´m sure they have all you need.

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Walking foot usually is related to a triple feed machine (mechanically driven top feed, bottom feed and needle feed in unison) but you often find this term along with so called "jump foot" machines. These are not really walking foot machines as the presser foot is not "mechanically driven", the foot is pulled back wile the feed dog moves forward and then jumps back at the end of the stitch because the foot bar is spring loaded. Not sure if you know what I mean. Your 331K5 is - as far as I know - a jump foot machine. Its the similar to the earlier Singer 31K19 or the heavier Singer 132K6 which often is called a walking foot machine as well. 31K15 and the like are more or less "hobbling foot" machines but that term does not sell - if you know what I mean - so some folks call everything with a "moving foot" a walking foot machine. So be careful when you look at a so called "walking foot machine" - its not all the same!!! But I would not start a fight because of this term I just wanted to clarify that not everything that is called "walking foot machine" is mechanically the same thing!

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