Constabulary

Shouldn´t be too difficult to adjust it. Or is it probably gummed up or maybe secured with a set screw (you never know). I´m sure one of the dealer who have banners on top of the page can help you with the feet. My source would probably be College Sewing in the UK but I live on the other side of the pond.

Can`t see it good enough - you probably have to replace the presser foot bar to install the roller foot bar but before you swing the screwdriver check if the bar has the same dimensions - look s pretty long. Maybe it belonged to an other machine. You have another roller foot but I can't see what it exactly is. Maybe the pictures of this auction will help: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolling-Needle-Feed-Machine-Singer-110w125-Tag-3695-/271543596201

You can also mark the Videos on Youtube as "Not Listed". I always do that. But I honestly find Youtube not very comfortable to use. But thats probably just me. Lots of other Youtube punks seems to like it.

This is a pre 1945 mfg Singers made in Wittenberge, Prussia. This is the first 111WD I have ever seen. I only own a spare parts box with 111WD marking. These are on of the few almost unknown Singers (from my experience). The only source I know is a Singer (Prussia) mfg. list on the VERITAS website: http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/naehmaschinenwerk_produktionsprofil/seite02_singer.htm I guess the WD ID´s the different stitch length adjuster which is very unusual for the 111 type machines. Too bad the adjuster knob is missing. I think it´s almost impossible to replace it with an original part. I could only imagine replacing it with a Pfaff adjuster but nut sure if this will fit at all. Could you post some close ups of the hook era?

This "oil pump thing" is really something one should know of and keep in mind when hunting for a new / used sewing machine!!! As Uwe said "the right oil topic" will probably cause some fighting. This is probably the same as "the correct olive drab paint" when you are involved in military vehicles. Others go crazy when it comes to automotive motor oils... WTF Anyway - would be nice to read other oil opinions. My all time favorite oil for all oiling purposes is the full synthetic S-761 weapons oil. S-761 is the NATO code not the product name. It is well penetrating has good cleaning effect and is well preserving too. I have used this stuff for years when I was in the Army. Since then I always have a few liters on my shelf. I´m not a technician but my simple mind makes me think what keeps the heavy machine guns firing can´t be bad for my vintage sewing machines. Maybe a dumb reason but this stuff just works very well. http://www.etsint.de/en/produkte/cleaning/military/weaponoil-967

Okay, you have the variant w/o the blade spring. If you had the blade spring variant and 2 springs were installed you could have taken one off. The "knob" on top of the head is for regulating the pressure. Turn it counterclockwise for reducing the foot pressure. The wing nut is not for foot pressure it is for adjusting the foot hight. Do you have a manual for your machine ? I´m sure it is explained there. Not sure what kind of markings you have. Are you probably using presser feet with toothed bottom? Then I´d either grind down the teeth or buy a new feet set with smooth surface.

My 2 large singer "oil pumps" never fail! But my machines do not run in a factory environment. Anyway - I´d say manual oiling from time to time are not a bad idea even when you have an oil pump on your machines. Question is do these oil pumps work at slow speed at all? Meaning are they probably useless when you are working with leather / sewing at very slow speed? If this is the case you should consider manual oiling in general.

I don`t have one for sale but you presser feet of the Cowboy CB2500, Techsew HD3650 or GA5-1 Sewing Machines will fit for your 45k if it has no jump foot. Can you post some picture of your machine? I always like to see vintage machine

No offense but honestly - why are so many people posting an sales ad w/o proper pictures, w/o location info and w/o technical details and w/o shipping details? Is is so difficult? Taking a few good pictures takes a few seconds maybe minutes when the first pictures are poor. But when you want to sell a $2500 item you should take the time. What I would expect as a potential customer are: - at least 2 good / clear pictures of each machine head (front & back) but the more the better - motor information (Servo, Clutch, pulley size...) - what accessories are included (speed reducer, extra feet, edge guide, needles, thread...) - location of the machine (just put it in your profile) - just local pick up or will you ship Keep in mind that your machine is not the only one on the market. A customer needs help for making his decisions and information and pictures are "the salt in the soup". When you want to sell something YOU have to give as many information as possible. Don´t say "but people can ask" - they don´t when proper basic information are not available. When they don´t get at least some basic information they will switch to the next seller who probably has done his homework. You cannot expect that a customer is googling all information he needs for buying YOUR item. There are simply too many variations on the market. Again no offense but this is something every seller should think about when selling an item - no matter what it is and no matter where selling (Ebay, Forum, Craigslist...)

Not sure which wing nut you mean on the backside of the machine. The only wing nut I remember is for adjusting the foot lift hight. Can you post a picture of your machine? There are 2 different 145 with different ways of adjusting the foot pressure. One with 1 or 2 blade springs on top and the other has just a knob above the foot spring.

In the past you were able to get different type of feed dogs with narrower teeth depending on the sewing application. But nowadays you can be lucky when you find just 1 type. Nowadays feed dogs of the 45K flat bed most of the time have 12 or 14 teeth whereas the feed dog of the cylinder bed machines have 8 or 9 teeth but I know for the cylinder bed machines the feed dogs were available with at least 12 teeth. So when you apply the same amount of foot pressure to the feed dogs then the ones with fewer teeth will most likely leave deeper marks on the leather. Foot pressure should always bee as low as possible but high enough to feed the materials properly.

I think the Juki is using the standard Singer 111w type feet. The well assorted known dealers will have them and you can find a wide range on Ebay or at College Sewing in the UK. You can probably use an inside binder foot and modify it a little bit.

They are for "jump foot" machines like the 45K58 I think Frankqv has a 45K with jump foot. Not sure if JIMI from Spain has one but I´d at least ask them. If I were I would buy them anyway and put them in the sale section. Would be a shame when they again disappear in a drawer for the next 30 years.

This seems to be a RAFFLENBEUL sole stitcher. I think the model was MATADOR. I´m not sure but I guess it is the predecessor of the MS55 or MS200 sole stitcher. I don´t know if it is using the same needles / awls as the the MS200 but you can buy MS200 needless here: http://www.ebay.de/itm/RAFFLENBEUL-NADEL-UND-AHLE-SET-FUR-DIE-MS-50-MS-200-DURCH-NAHMASCHINE-/251908216399?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item3aa6e6564f An here you can find a manual for the MS200 http://www.ebay.de/itm/Doppelmaschine-Rafflenbeul-Ms-200-/321604735948?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item4ae122d3cc The manual could be helpful as the M200 looks a bit like your machine but I´m not 100% sure.

I´m for sure not a big bird when it comes to real leather work (not at all) but I sometimes stumble over some vintage tools but I the hell don´t know what they were used for. So I leave them alone though it probably could be worth buying them. And I´m sure I´m not alone with this. So what for newbies could be very helpful is an introduction of tools like 1 or 2 pictures of a certain tool a small description and one or two additional pictures or a Video showing the tool in use. Maybe in different categories (as terrypen suggested) like cutting, stamping, carving, sewing, moulding/shaping.... and so forth. I´m sure this is not easy but would for sure be very helpful. I´ts just an idea.

There are some members who like treadle machines - I personally don`t though I like vintage machines very much. A well functional servo motor + speed reducer is the best option I would say (my opinion). I would not recommend a Singer 29K or any other cobbler machine if you want to produce quality standard items. These were designed for very slow sewing and the bobbins do not have much capacity. F.i. the bobbin of most 29K is just 16mm in diameter. Check this post - I have posted a picture of different bobbins for comparison: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=56667&p=385045 So producing a canvas Duffel Bag may take for ever and you have to change the bobbin every few minutes. And the thicker the thread is the less thread is on the bobbin. Anything thicker than 92 or 138 thread makes no sense for cobbler machines I would say. Some even say 69 size thread is the best but I can run 138 thread in my 29K71. Anyway - a cobbler machine is not recommend for producing quality goods. A worn feed dog may help to prevent leather markings but can cause inconsistent stitchings as well. I had this with my 133K3 machine. Best choice probably is a needle feed or walking foot (triple feed) machine.

Don´t know how much you want to spend and where you are located but how about a BUSMC / Pearson #6 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pearson-No-6-Harness-Leather-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-British-United-Shoe-Compa-/281576584968?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item418f45b708 Not cheap but you can use the head even w/o the treadle just for the case you are travelling. Don´t what exactly you want to sew but maybe a Junker & Ruh SD28 could be an option

I have a 133K3 and once worked with a 45K1 (both drop feed). My 133K3 has about 14m foot lift and the 45k 12mm (as far as I remember the 45K). But they are both using the same foot lift lever so it´s just a question of how they are set up. The 45K has a bit more punch because it has a much much heavier balance wheel. Both are nice to work with. LW member JIMI from Spain has a bunch of 45K´s and all have a treadle if I´m right. I´m sure he will jump in here when he is reading the 45K topic ---- Hey Harry - seems you found the way to the LW forum. We were in touch a couple of times because of the 133K. You have sent the 132K manual and I have returned the 133K6 manual a bit later...

Art - I´m sure I read the grove to the right - but seems I misread and typed to fast - sorry

When the machine is properly set up I´m sure you will be happy with it. It takes the same feet as the Singer 111 triple feed machines and you can get a wide range of accessories + spare parts for it for reasonable prices. But I don´t know if it can handle 207 threads but for sure the 138 thread w/o problems. w/o having seen the machine $500 including a DC Servo motor seems to be a fair deal when the machine is working properly. I´d test sew it before you pay the seller. Download the manual and read it or take it with you when you are test sewing it.

Well, it depends on how much you are willing to spend and if you are looking for a new or used machine and what is available on the market in your region. Are you looking for a flat bed or cylinder bed machine? The flat bed "medium duty" upholstery type Singer 111w type machines (like Singer 111w, Adler 67, 167, 267, Pfaff 145, 545, Consew 226 and so many more) can sew up to 9-10mm thick materials (maybe some can sew thicker) and can handle 138 but not all can handle 207 thread. Usually it´s recommended to buy "more machine than you need" because the heavy duty machines like the 441 type machines (Juki 441, Cowboy 3500, Techsew 3600, Cobra Class 4 or many others) can handle thread from 138 onwards and some can sew almost any thickens up to 1". But there are too many machines (including vintage machines) on the market and you cannot know them all. Since you live in Canada I´d probably contact Raphael Sewing Machines Inc. / Techsew - they are member here in the forum and have a banner on top of the website. I´m sure they can guide you when you are telling them what exactly you are planing to do. Or check the Sale section here in the forum.

Sorry Art but the grove is on the left, the scarf is on the right! But I´m sure you meant the scarf. @Rowdybarn Maybe the needle bar is a bit too high or to low or the hook tip is too far away from the needle or the needle / hook timing is off. Since it is a new machine I´m sure the manual gives you instruction how to make adjustments. If you don´t have a manual you can download it here: http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/205RB-1.PDF if you still have trouble I´m sure someone here can help you.

The 107w is a high speed drop feed zig zag machine. I once had a "German clone" of it a Durkopp 252 and I don´t think it is ideal for leather. You of course can sew garment leather with it but as far as I remember I was just able to sew 69 or 92 thread with it. I have no experience with a 241-2 but this thread gives you answers: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57636 With some luck I´m sure you can find a walking foot (triple feed) machine for about the same money. This pinned thread should give you some guidance for finding the machine you want / need: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239

You can move the hook saddle a bit to the right but I don´t know if the the hook saddle is the same as on the 545. I think at least the bobbin case opener is different because of the larger bobbin. But it would be intersecting to know if this modification is possible.

Any new insights on this topic?