Constabulary

My "secret weapon" is paint thinner or in particular cellulose thinner but I´m not sure if it is technically the same "stuff" that I use. This is what I use: http://www.ebay.de/itm/5-Liter-Waschverduennung-Verduennung-von-Recolor-fuer-Autolack-Reiniger-E0075-/201025074668?_trksid=p2054897.l4275 It is quite aggressive and resolves the paint but in case of repainting the machine this effect can be helpful. This really removes all the old grease and oil but I´m sure you have something similar in the US. I´m no chemist I just know that it works very well. BTW if you want to repaint it with wrinkle paint I heard that the VHT wrinkle spray paint is good. I have a few cans but never have used it. Maybe it will try it on my next project.

I would not rip apart the entire machine, this will probably cause a lot of timing problems. I would thoroughly clean and oil it ad give it a new paint job.

I have worked with both (but with reverse) and I prefer the 111 since the 211 as a very small hand wheel. But that does not mean the 211 is a bad machine, both work fine but depends on the overall condition and setup. If you can´t find a 111 buy the 211 and I´m sure it will do the job!

U.S.M. thread stand ist sold - thanks a lot!

I know Techsew has them online available or Cutex, Campbell-Randall, Leathermachine Co. and so forth. Shouldn´t be a problem to find them.

You can download one in German language here: http://www.altenaehmaschine.com/shop/page/8?sessid=ys0ScJMFIGNhq1CupqkzLgAWOC9Ts1VT82NIt7g0qwJsb5K9ng7f75ALkxpkq4Zz&shop_param=

I have a bunch of harness needles in original envelopes. I think thats how they are called in the US - we call them Sattlernadeln. I have attached some pictures. I have 7 packages in total some are size 1 and some are size 2 - overall I`d say more than 120 needles (maybe 140 or so - I have not counted them). The size 2 are about 50-55 mm long and the size 1 are about 60mm long. Some light rust stains but not too bad I´d say - see pictures - what you see is what you get!!!! I´d ask $30 shipped (registered Airmail) for the entire lot. I will also throw in some more needles for free (about 30 or more) but they are a bit more rust stained. Send me a PM when interested.

I don´t recall how the Adlers look from the underside but usually the hook saddle is attached with 2 (very tight) screws. I need a picture to tell. You can also leave the hook installed, remove one of the needle and bobbin case so the hook is spinning but it is empty. Or pull the entire hook with hook shaft and gear. I cannot give you further instructions atm. But I would only do that in case you are desperate and don´t find a single needle machine elsewhere. Better look for a single needle machine!!!!

A hook does not cost $400. You can get quality generic hooks for about $150 or less. You can either use the left or right needle both have a permanently spinning hook (of course) but you are limited with the accessory feet. The single needle feet do not fit for a double needle setup. You can remove one of the hook saddles and have a spare hook. But I don´t think this is the best idea - I would look for a single needle machine!

I have a bunch of 4 beautiful antique / vintage thread stands made by Durkopp, Pfaff and U.S.M. (United Shoe Machinery I guess). The Pfaff with the curved top is original. I have found it exactly that way in a parts list. I first thought someone replaced the top part... I´d date them to the 1930´s to 1950´s - oldest is the Durkopp as it has the old Company sign. Here is a overview - I will post more pictures a in the days to come. Asking $40 each and $45 of the Pfaff for 3 thread spools. Or all together $150 + shipping. I will leave them up here for a couple of days before I put them on Ebay.

stitching looks good so far. Good luck with the further restoration!

I would assume that your machine once has been setup for a certain sewing application for the upholstery business. Usually no foot requires drilling or grinding when it is made or meant for a certain machine but everything is fine as long as it it works for you...

Well - I´m sure that this was not the correct way to solve it. All 111w walking foot machines are using the same feet and there is no need for drilling. The machine was set up with lower foot lift because one of the former owners did not need a high lift. It is a machine setting problem not a pressure foot problem.

yes they are water slide decals. I have used them on my 111G156 and 133K3 and some lamps. I´m satisfied. For detailed instructions contact the seller or check his website: http://www.customfeatherweights.com/decals-page/29

Well - Singer in Wittenberge made A LOT of industrial sewing machines as is seems - they even made a 111W type called 111WD. Here you can find a list of German made / assembled "Wittenberge" Singers: http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/naehmaschinenwerk_produktionsprofil/seite01_singer.htm http://home.arcor.de/veritasklub/naehmaschinenwerk_produktionsprofil/seite02_singer.htm Yet I unfortunately have not seen many of the German made machines (meaning pre 1945 made). I would love to see (and own) one of the 111WD model machines. I guess a lot of factory used industrial machines where destroyed during the allied air raids during the war. I was fortunate to acquire a wooden box of an traveling shoemaker (or cobbler) + leather worker. And that box contained a nice bunch of NOS singer spare parts (tension springs and tiny screws mainly) Singer needles and a huge lot of harness and Sys 328 needles, awls, thread and so forth. The most interesting part (though not very spectacular) was and accessory box of the 111WD machine so I know they really exited! I asked the seller if he still has the machine but seems it is long gone - too bad.

Added some cabinet door snappers (or how do you call them?) to put the flat bed in a fixed position. And I have added a sewing lamp. I´m finally done And here is a Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFmD-Qfn08g

it depends - I think a restored machine is worth more than a barn find. Don´t expect everybody loves the vintage & worn appearance. It for sure has some charm but it depends on the overall appearance. If you want a machine just for decoration - fine - sell as is but if someone really wants to use it I think a nice restored machine will bring you some more $. Just my opinion.

Well, I`m sometimes using 207 (T210) in my Singer 111 w/o problems but with a 160 needle. But as Geneva said usually 138 thread is working best with this type of machine When it already had some "temper tantrums" as you say then there is probably something wrong. Have you checked the timing of the needle + hook? Is the machine correctly threaded (top + bottom)? Have you checked the tension on the bobbin case? Is the needle scarf or the grove facing right? Is it facing straight right or has it a bit of an angle?

Alex, the 135x17 is for fabric (round point) the 135x16 is for leather - same needle length + size but different needle tip (or point). You don´t have to change any settings you just have to insert a leather needle.

I don´t know what this thing is but usually the adjustment screw for the presser foot is located there. Or take a picture from the to so we can see it better. This is how it looks at my 111G156 Because of the small tab that breaks your thread - try to push it back a tiny bit with a small screwdriver or so. If you can`t get it fixed I´d replace the entire tension unit. A new one is about $10. It´s held by just 2 small screws but you probably have to adjust the unit a bit. Or just take the parts from it you need to fix your old tension unit and you have some spare parts for the future. Thats the big advantage oft the old 111 series machines - you can get parts everywhere and even for a good price.

Hard to decide w/o seeing pictures. I would probably strip the machine (I just did it with a 29K1) and re paint it. 29K are not rare machines and the older they are the worst their performance is - most of the time. You have to decide what you want to have in your work shop - a rusty original machine or a good looking machine (not speaking of the performance). I´d prefer a good looking machines. And for 29K´s you can buy full new decal sets. It´s the same as with old timer cars - most people like to have nice looking cars. Even restored cars are still oldtimers. But it of course depends... Always keep in mind that customers could come to your shop and I think a good looking machine leaves a better impression than and rusted one,

I never was thinking of an OCR and also never tried it... Good idea!

Tomorrow I´ll work on some small details and will test sew it. Then I´m done I think. I´ll try to make a small video in the days to come.

Some progress I have added a small speed reducer and a flat bed XL attachment some more pics

For sewing fabric some folks use Teflon tape on the underside of the foot but I´m not sure if it works with leather. I never tried it With the roller the is feeding smoother (no frictional resistance on the foot) due to the roller and so you can even reduce the foot pressure I´d say (fewer marking feed dog marks on the leather). And yes, turning the material is easier f.i. when you are following curved edges, you can sew closer to raised edges and so forth. The position of the roller is straight as the feed dog and it should be adjusted close to the needle w/o rubbing on the needle and thread.