Constabulary

I think you don´t have many options then. The only one I have ever heard of it the one that Sailrite offers but I think this is sometime they have puzzled together and it costs a lot of money. http://www.sailrite.com/MC-SCR-Power-System-110-Volt But I don´t see a big advantage of this system as the up to date servo motors have up to 750 or even 1000 watts and should strong enough out of the box and if they do not have enough torque add a smaller pulley and / or speed reducer. That still cheaper than the Sailrite system. But if you don´t like rods and chains then you have to buy the sailrite motor. But maybe someone knows other systems

I see - Thanks a lot for the hint. I thought it was a special purpose machine because of the X-long needle bar. I also have never seen a 45K with reverse. Probably because they are not very common on this side of the pond, You find more Adler 4 than Singer 45K.

Ask for the distance between the two needles if you need a 2 needle machine with a certain distance. You only can adjust the distance with an other complete gauge set and that may cost 1/2 of the machine - if you can find one at all. I also have an old Singer to ID - hope you don´t mind that I hijack your thread "Hi Im Joe" Looks like a 45K but what subclass is it? It has an extremely long needle bar and a strange stitch length adjuster for a 45K I´d say... Sorry this is the only picture.

okay now here are some pictures. I have not taken pictures of every step - sorry! At first I used a sharp chisel for wood and tapped around the bearing, followed by a big flat head screwdriver, then I have used a more solid chisel and used it s a lever and finally I used a gear puller when the gap between housing an bearing was wide enough. Voila - the bearing is pulled! I squeezed the timing belt through the gap between the upper shaft and housing - this was very very tight and I´m glad I have not damaged the belt! The Adler 167 has a much smaller bearing than the Singer 111 type machines. I used a splint driver to squeeze it through. Then I have cleaned the bearing with fine sandpaper, degreased it and applied some Loctite 601and pushed the bearing back in. For sure not the most elegant way but still better than pulling the entire shaft. I think the "Adler way" is pulling the shaft but removing the pulley is much faster. It took me about 25 minutes to get it out and to replace the belt. Now I have to go ahead and try to time everything (it already was out of time before I replaced the belt) and see what else is going on with this machine. I will for sure have a lot more questions later...

Yes, it indeed is possible! I just removed the bearing carefully and have successfully replaced the belt. But I have to admit is is very very tight and you have to be very very careful not to damage the belt! I will add some pictures and how it works later. I think this was the easiest part and now I have to take care of all the other issues

The paint is ordinary glos black spray paint and even one of the cheapest I have found. But the paint is made by a well know paint company (Kwasny.com) but this paint is more or less a private label brand so it is good quality for a low price . I paid 8€ + shipping for 3 spray cans: www.ebay.de/itm/190438439289 It is extremy fast drying and covers very nice. I like the 133K very much - nice large bobbing and rotary hook. Too bad it has no reverse but for the thick webbing It will work (hopefully). I´m also tinking of buying the flat bad type 132K if one crosses my way for a good price. It´s stupid as I don´t need it but I just like these machiens.

This was the only one I have ever seen for sale in Germany. Can`t wait to see it fully "alive" but I still have a lot of work with the table as I have the idea of using two machines on the tables end (aim is one table, two motors, 4 machines). Belief it or not it came form the City of Bielefeld - the home of Duerkopp Adler.

Over the years I had a couple of clutch motors - some where great and some where horrible in terms of controlling them. It makes a big difference if you have one with 2800 rpm or 1400 rpm. The worst was as Singer with 2800 rpm and the very best (just sold it with my Adler III sewing machine) was an Italian Moretti with adjustable clutch. I also had 3 different servo motors and the one I´m currently using is a JACK servo with 750 Watts and it is just great only thing is that the needle positioning is not working but that is because of the speed reducer I have installed as it seems. But since I´m sewing quite slow and most of the items short seams it does not matter as I can watch the needle go up and down. I would never again buy a clutch motor for my personal use and the motor for by Singer 133K3 will be a JACK servo again (most likely).

Thanks Bob - so with other words it is possible to remove the bearing? Maybe I should try to heat the housing with a heat gun and try tapping it out.

A friend bought an optical quite nice Adler 167 from an insolvent company. Unfortunately the machine is technically totally out of time and needs a new timing belt as it is quite brittle. Seems it once was used as a binding machine. I promised to help him but I thought it would be the same as at my Singer 111 but seems the Adler 167 bearing at the hand wheel is not removable. Machine has some more issues but I think w/o a new timing belt it makes no sense to do further adjustments. Can someone give me instructions how to replace the timing belt?

sounds like the set screws of the hand wheel are loose. There is a grove or flat sport on the shaft the hand wheel is attached to and one of the screws should sit in the grove.

Check this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=48438

Goede dag Nadine - Maybe you can try to put a piece of shrinking hose on the foot, if you know what I mean. But since the machine has top feed only if may effect the feeding. Maybe you can reduce the foot pressure a little bit.

I have heard (or read) somewhere that the SV has bronzed bearings and where made for the US military. But I have no proof for this. I wonder what serial number it has so you can find out the mfg. date. Wouldn't surprise me if it was made in the early to mid 1940´s. Damn - this is something I´d like to own.

The thread take up lever has an "extra" link and its movement looks somehow smoother when it is going up and down - sound stupid but that how it looks. It also has an extra guidance below the excenter. @ CD Yeah - once again old cast iron I of course have painted the machine and now I have to orderer some new decals. I just want it to look better than when I have found them. I just have checked ISMCS serial numbers list and the machine was actually made in 1932 (not 133), at that date they made 200 133K and mine was the 2nd in that lot Y8465194 Y- 8465193 - 8465392 133K 200 January 6 1932 I know manuals for the 133K are harder to find but parts lists are not. I have a manuals for the 132K but not for my 133K3 so maybe some one can help me finding a manual. Some may be interested in the manuals for the 132K (one is for 132B26) so here they are: Singer 132B26 Operators Guide.pdf Singer 132K Manual.pdf

I like the British humor very much but you have to have a bit of a sense for it. TOP GEAR UK is great, though I´m not a big car or motor fan I really like the 3 dudes and their odd challenges. But TOP GEAR US sucks soooo bad bad bad.

Not that it is important but maybe some likes to know. The much heavier hand wheel of the 45K works on the 133K too, you only need a spacer of about 5mm. Only thing is that you have to replace the machine mounted bobbin winder with a table mount winder since the 45K hand wheel is larger in diameter. But the heavier hand wheel will give the needle a bit more punch. The 45K foot lift lever also fits and is seems to lift the foot slightly higher than the original. So I have replaced the original. Stitch length seems to be 9 -10mm Few more pictures.

Last weekend was a good "sewing machine weekend", I picked up two machines and one was a Singer 133k3. It is not a walking for machine but this heavy baby will save me a lot of space as I can mount it to the end of my table (had this idea anyway). It has a 12-13mm foot lift which is enough for my work. So my recently restored Adler III has to go again. Regarding the serial # it was built in 1933. It took at least 4hrs to remove all the dust + oil clumps and old hardened grease plaque from in and outside. One good thing is that I can use the presser feet of the Singer 45K / Adler 104 which I still have floating around here. Only thing I have to replace is the check spring and the leave spring for the hook retainer (ordered already). One of the former owners "bubba repaired" the check spring with a piece of heavy brass wire - but it works. :D I had to adjust the hook drive shaft a little bit but that was no big deal. I have cleaned out the two gearboxes and filled with new grease and now it all runs smooth (hand cranked yet). Some pics from the advertising (pics do not tell how dirty it was on the inside), from cleaning and how it currently looks I should take taken some more but forgot to...

Try Sieck in Germany, they have luggage sewing machines it but it will cost a lot of $$$$ http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing/diverse-machines/ I´m not sure but I think I have seen attachments for an Adler 105 Adler sewing machines somewhere, they MAY fit for Singer 45K as well. You may find some more details at the Adler sew24 Blog: http://sew24.blogspot.de/2012/01/vintage-leaflets-for-adler-sewing.html http://sew24.blogspot.de/2012/01/vintage-leaflets-for-adler-sewing_31.html

soooooo - I´m selling it again. It was a lot of work (but it was fun too) and I like this beautyful machine very much but last weekend I have found a Singer 133K3 cylinder bed machine head for a bargain price. And since I have a space problem this nice machine has to go again. I can mount the 133K23 on the end of my long table (I had this idea anyway) and that saves me a lot of space. So if someone is interested, I will ship worldwide as long as one is willing to pay the shipping. I would also sell just the head with accessories if one really wants it.

ouh - I´m sorry - I just noticed you are from Canada and not USA. But maybe you get some ideas from my post as I´m speaking for the customers end.

I live in Germany and I´m sometimes buying sewing machine parts and military collectibles either on Ebay or directly from collectors and companies. So I can speak for the customers / importers side. FedEx and UPS charge higher shipping than USPS and they charge their own handling fees on top of import duties and VAT. I cannot recommend them when you ship to the EU (I only can speak for Germany) and I do not order from companies who ship with one of them. But it could be an advantage if the customer does not have a customs office close to them. Both companies are collecting the VAT and import duties directly from the customer. DHL / Deutsche Post delivers the USPS packages and they also collect the taxes and import duties as long as the invoice or ebay details (or similar) is placed on the outside of the package - that is quite important to know. But they do not charge a handling fee like UPS or FEDEX. If the package has no invoice on the outside of the package goes to the customer nearest local customs office and the customer has to pick up the package from them. He has to open the package and has to provide an invoice (BTW - DO NOT PUT A FAKE INVOICE IN or ON THE PACKAGE AND ALWAYS DECLARE THE FULL VALUE - NO MATTER WHAT THE CUSTOMER WANTS). So it is really important to place and invoice (or similar) on the outside of the package. Just put it in the plastic bag with the custom declaration for / shipping label when you ship by Priority Mail. I recommend USPS Priority Mail. Their flat rate boxes are nice but it could be cheaper when you don´t use them and use your own boxes. It depends on the weight and size of the box. 1st Class Mail sometimes is really fast, I had packages that arrived within 5 days from PA. USPS Priority Mail has the big advantage that I can track the USPS tracking numbers through the DHL system as DHL delivers the USPS packages in Germany. Also, when you are buying USPS postage online it is much cheaper than buying it at the Post Office. I think you have to register at the USPS website if you want to use it. So if you don´t want to make money with shipping, just charge your customer only what you have paid + probably $2 for packing materials and DO NOT not charge stupid handling fees. That is ridicules - but it may be a different thing when you have to drive a couple of miles to the next Post Office but your customer should know of when you charge him an extra fee and what it is for. Otherwise he could think you are cheating him and you want to earn some extra $$ with shipping costs. I had ebay sellers who charged a $10 handling fee just for filling in a custom declaration form - I´m sorry but that is stupid customer unfriendly and ridicules. Just think about it - it makes no sense. Earn money with what you make & sell and not with filling in custom forms. USPS also has a shipping calculator that works by weight and size of the box. http://ircalc.usps.gov/default.aspx?Mode=Intl_Single&CID=10137 On the 2nd page it shows you the EXPRESS shipping rates on top but a bit deeper you have the Priority and 1st Class Mail options. So - thats my experience from the customers view. I hope this helps... Good luck with your business.

Hey VanRhodes - I just stumbled over this auction on Ebay Germany. http://www.ebay.de/itm/131278201857 seems these are Adler 20 parts as far as I can tell. I though this could be a great deal for you if you bid on it. If the seller will not ship to Sweden tell him to send the items to my address and I can forward them to you - just for the case...

It sits loose in a small tunnel inside the body, just remove the tension assembly and put it back in.

A picture of the part would help to ID. I don´t have all part # in mind. But I´d assume it is one of the pins the releases the tension disc. If it is a tiny pin that looks a bit like mushroom it sits in the tension assembly inside the post that holds the discs, spring and nut. If is is a longer pin it sits inside the machine and goes from back to front and pushes against the lever of the tension disc assembly when you lift the foot. If not - post a picture.