Constabulary

Does it make the "thump" when you run the machine completely w/o thread (top + bottom)? I´d try it once with the bobbin and once without the bobbin in place just to see if it makes a difference.

This one is is quite the same as the Singer 211 so you should find binders w/o problem.

I once had a similar issue with my vintage Singer 111 and figured it was the thread stand that did not feed the thread properly. Check if your thread travels the right path and if the thread comes off the cone correctly w/o hanging and causing a higher top thread tension. You know what I mean? I guess your machine is quite new, if not check the the tension discs if they are probably worn (but I doubt they are worn). Or it probably the thread it self is bad. Sometimes cheap thread is not evenly twisted. Try a different brand and look if it works better with your machine. Just my 2 cents...

I accidentally came across an old needle feed Pfaff 142 (well, I think it is a 142 as it has no tags) but outfitted with just a single needle foot for the right needle. But it is outfitted with a double needle bar and two hooks. So I wonder if someone has "accidentally" a double needle presser foot for the 142 with 7.2mm space. Furthermore I could use a cover for the hook gear (one is missing) part number is 10052. Condition doesn't matter but price does as I know that Pfaff parts are expensive and I do not have a real use for this machine. I´m just playing with it a little bit so this is nothing that has priority and I don´t want to waste money on it.

Check this thread. Member dthayer had a similar problem with his Adler 205 http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51731&p=330315

This is a quite small domestic sewing machine. You may be able sew some garment leather on it but it has it´s limits. I´m not sure what needle size it can handle but I think the limit will be a size 19 and #92 thread. The machine is not made for sewing heavier leather, it originally was made for sewing garment fabrics.

I have no Landis but what is a "Friction Disc Shifter Link"? Can you add a picture? You know, maybe one can help if he sees what you mean.

Eric, "reconditioning" the magnets did not work. I even tried to leave the neodym magnets in the sensor - no change at all.

Holy Cow - thats a good idea. I will try some neodym magnets. I think I have some floatings around here. Bringing the disc closer to the sensor did not work.

I opened the sensor and figured it uses magnet for the positioning signal. Thought I don't keep the motor, I will try to set the disc with the magnets closer to the sensors. If I ruin the sensor I have one spare so its worth the try. Some pics.

No, this is a very basic motor with just on / off switch and a switch for rotation direction. No control panel at all. Well, this motor has to go anyway. I just wanted to be sure that other servo motors like the Enduros do not have this issue.

Hi Steve - thanks for your reply. Yes, thats how I would expect the NPS should work but as you see in the last seconds of my video, the needle is on the down stroke and goes down a bit slow already but then when it was down already it makes another stitch...

I even have 2 synchronizers. I wanted one on each machine so I can switch the machines on my table and can use one motor (saves me space) but both synchronizers have the same issue. I tried to adjust the synchronizers back + forth but no change at all. So I think this is not a common issue, right? Or have you ever heard of this before? I ask because I don´t want to deal with this issue again in case I´m buying an Enduro motor or a clone.

BTW - the extra stitch happens on light fabric as well not only on heavy material. I first thought it is because of the compound feed of my 111G156 but I now have mounted it to a different machine with regular feed and the problem is still the same. Here is a short video - you see what I mean? http://s351.photobucket.com/user/orangeagentz/media/sewing_vids/MOV001.mp4.html EDIT: For those who find this post randomly and think it is an ENDURO motor - IT IS NOT!!!!

Thats possible! I´m currently working on 2 speed reducers but anyway - I still have the issue with the extra stitch when the motor is positioning the needle. So sewing just 1 stitch is not possible with this motor. It at least makes 1 stitch too much and sometimes even 2! I decided kick out this motor and look for another one. I´m thinking about one (or two) of the Enduros + my Speed reducer. They have more Watts and a good reputation too, plus I even can order spare parts online. So I wanted to check if the Enduros also have this "1 stitch too much" issue that my motor has.

Or you can mount it to the table frame. I once did this on a machine I have sold. Just to give you an idea:

Thanks Eric! Is that the case on ALL servos with NPS (or EPS)? I wonder if I´m the only one who has this problem. I do not sew very heavy leather but sometimes quite thick canvas straps. I wonder if the guys who make holster from heavy leather have this problem too. Men - this sucks so bad... How is it with this "one stitch too much" - is this a known problem? Because of the info you sent by mail - no, it honestly has never arrived. But don´t send them again because my pal kicked out his motor and bought a used Pfaff clutch motor.

I recently bought a 400Watts Servo with needles positioning system. Its not a common brand you find in the US I think. It is an analog servo with magnetic speed regulation. Overall a nice motor but the needles positioning system (NPS) sucks! Problem is sometimes the needle positioning system makes 1 stitch too much. Needle goes down and you think it will stay there but then it makes another stitch. This is pretty annoying when you sew short seams on straps or so. No way to adjust the sensor on the hand wheel. I tried it over and over again. Furthermore if the needle hits a hard point the positioning system does not turn off even when I take the foot off the pedal. it always works against the hard point. So the only way is to turn off the entire motor. I don´t like it at all! So I wonder if I can run the ENDURO Servo motors (or clones) which are equipped with a NPS without the NPS. I know I can get them without NPS but I want to know if I pull the plug of the hand wheel sensor just for the case I don't want to use the NPS "today" does the motor still work or does it produce a failure? Also, do other motors with NPS turn off when they hit a hard point?

If the cylinder is no longer needed remove it if possible. I hope it does not leave a big hole! From my point of view, most of the times it is worth restoring old machine as long as they are not totally busted! But depends it finally on the machine. I have restored a few already. My biggest project was a 111G156 which now is my favorite machine and I´m currently working on an Adler Class III from the early 1900´s. It´s a lot of work but also a lot of fun and you learn a lot! Good luck with your project. I´d like to see pictures of your progress if you don´t kind.

Today I received the two step pulley made after my specs. A sealed ball bearing on both sides for 15mm shaft, pulleys are 2", 4" and 6", milled out of aluminum. Each pulley cost me 40€ (about $55) incl. shipping. I´m quite impressed of the quality. I´m getting closer to my idea...

The red Koch Atlas seems to be a Class II. Look at my pictures. Class II and Class III have different take up levers. You will see the difference from the back side view. You probably have noticed that the Class III has an excenter rotating on the upper arm which moves the take up lever. So I´d say you have the earlier Class II

I removed the "general dirt" with glass cleaner, the old grease I removed with purified petroleum or lamp oil and a fiber brush. Not sure if this always works but this time it did. Some one told me barbecue or grill lighter fluid works too but I have not tried this. But I think it depends on the ingredients of the fluid. If the old grease is too sticky I use paint thinner to remove it. I figured the old paint on these vintage sewing machines is quite resistant... Of course you have to thoroughly oil the machine after this treatment. For rusted parts I use a bath of oxalic acid, this turns rust into some sort of grayish coating but I alway brush this off with a wire brush. Oxalic acid also does no damage the paint.

I know but there is just one coil type spring in the 45K so I´d assume the dealer just have bad pictures. I´d contact them and ask. If just the small end that goes into the tension post is broken, try to bend the remaining end, it MAY work and since the spring is broken why not give it a try. Or try one of the dealer who have banner at the top of this page. But they are all located in the US or Canada but not in Europe. OR - maybe the check spring of the Singer 132K will fit but I cannot confirm this... http://www.college-sewing.co.uk/1416-CHECK-SPRING-SEIKO-_-SINGER-132K=97798

A few quick pictures of the Adler II / Adler MILITARIA and my ADLER III I think you will note the difference! Meanwhile I worked on my machine as you can see - its getting better and better but I´m by far not done.

Mine is in deed and Adler III. I meanwhile have the manual, I had to pay 15€ for a PDF file. The guy did not care about a good quality scan but still better than having non! I also have an incomplete (as it seems) manual of the earlier type called Adler II or Adler MILITRIA. And I have some pictures of the earlier Adler II / MILITARIA from an owner who bought some Adler 4 parts from me. So here is a picture of the front cover of the Adler Class 3 Manual...