Constabulary

That can be fat / oil too. Experts call it spew afaik. When leather is a bit over treated and is exposed to different temperatures the "white stuff" appears and sometimes even disappears when it gets warmer. Try a hair dryer and see if it disappears. I had that on 2 old M-1916 holsters from WWII. First I expected mold but the holsters next to them had nothing. Did some research and figured temperature differences can cause that the "white stuff" appears... It´s a guess cause situations can be different. EDIT: https://www.lttleathercare.com/spew-on-leather-not-what-you-think/

#18 and #22 are both 135x17, right? So a different needle size usually does not require retiming. Needle hole in the feed dog have to be large enough for the #22 needle and make sure the hook tip is not touching the needle if it does well then the needle is too big for the machine cause you cannot move the hook further to the right AFAIK. EDIT: just realized its a double needle machine - not sure if you can move the posts sideways a little bit when the hook is touching the needle. EDIT II: you can - I just checked the manual : https://www.manualslib.com/manual/364365/Singer-138w102.html?page=11#manual

Don´t know where you come from but beside College Sewing Trojan Sewing UK has parts too: https://www.trojansewing.co.uk/product-category/industrial-sewing-machine-spare-parts/singer-industrial-sewing-machine-parts/singer-132-k-industrial-sewing-machie-parts/ You need the top and main tension units some thread guides too and a bobbin winder. Just what I notice from the picture. BTW - the Seiko SK-8 and Mitsubushi DY-253 share a lot of parts with the Singer 132K / 133K machines - just as a hint when looking for parts. Once you have completed it you may need timing values for the needle-hook timing - you find a good manual for the 132K / Seiko SK-8 here in the 1st post (values are the same as for the 133K´s)

I once restored the short arm version of your machine (kind of) - a 133K3. Not exactly the same in short but very close as it seems. Pictures here may give you and idea what parts are missing on your machine: Oh - BTW - just yesterday some one else posted his 133K darning machine - he probably would sell you some parts (guessing) - check this: Furthermore College Sewing in the UK has a good range of parts for the 133K / 132K but seems they have a website problem.

To be honest I would give this to someone professional cause matching the color and airbrushing the spot or so will not be an easy task and the pros may have different products for different type of leather plus they (hopefully) have experience with this. If it was a dime size spot I would probably try DIY but this is a huge and dominant spot and I don´t think you can match this up without experience and knowing the right products and techniques. My 2 cents cheap way - throw a blanket over it **kidding** EDIT: not your language I guess but maybe a website translations gives you an idea https://www.lederzentrum.de/tip/moebel/glattleder.html#videoanleitung

Regarding binders - maybe College sewing in the UK has what you need. https://www.google.com/search?q=college+sewing+Binder+50mm Not sure what source you have in France but maybe you can check with Zieger in Germany for custom made binders https://www.np-z.com/sonderbau

as sad as it is but you may get more for this machine in parts and for the nice stand, large thread stand, bobbin winder, hand wheel.... than for the whole machine sold as daring machine. A lot of parts are compatible with other 133K / 132K models not all but for sure many. My 2 cents BTW - this is a manual (download link) for the 133K6 but it´s not for the darning type but you may notice the differences: https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=145755

No, I´m sorry. Question is how much demand is there nowadays for a machine like this.

Basically you cannot sew knife sheaths with it. And for sure no one ever has sew boot soles on it. The guy who told you this did not know what he was talking about - I´m sorrry! Darning machines are for darning sacks or closing sacks.

Thats what I almost expected - it unfortunately is a darning machine not a sewing machine. It has a typical darning foot and no stitch length adjuster and no feed dog for feeding the material.

Can you post some pictures of your machine please? Some 133K´s were darning machines. I don´t know the 133KSV1 so would be good to see some pictures. I once owned a 133K3 which was a quite nice drop feed machine.

A lot of small business even struggle with their websites and still run a late 1990´s style website w/o a proper web shop. Some probably never have heard of https or responsive designs. Sailrite is creating demand with their videos - like see what you can do / what is possible - you can do that too / why don´t you DIY? They understand marketing and created a well known brand and they can deliver all you need for certain project at open stop. They do it the smart way and they are big enough / have enough employees to do so. Depends on your location and there is a bigger demand on car service than on sewing machine service I guess. How many people with a car do you know in your street and how many with a sewing machine? Cars are more complex too. You can be with cars on your own too - not impossible. There s no simple answer that covers all aspects why certain Co´s or businesses do or don´t do this or that. But a lot depends on the Co. size / number of employees.

with a chain or wire cable.

Ha - excellent! Glad you solved this.

I remember is this video. Especially check from 9:50 min onward. Maybe you can check on your 145 if you have the same issue cause the stitch length lever seem to be the same on the industrial Pfaffs. Just a guess. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtT7QejY2eQ

They usually cost a few bucks only singer parts # is 202259 https://www.trojansewing.co.uk/?s=202259&post_type=product&type_aws=true

I have not worked on Pfaff machines for quite a while but what I would probably try is to set the stitch length 1/2 way of the longest factory stitch length (if 6mm then to 3mm if 4mm then to 2mm....) and try to balance the F & R stitch length equally. The idea is that the amount the stitch length is off is approx. the same in shorter and longer stitches and probably not as significant as when you adjust it from the longest stitch. Not sure if this is what Pfaff recommends and I have not tried this by my self (have nothing to work on atm) but may worth giving it a try. Makes sense? Maybe, maybe not. I know a lot of folks prefer Pfaffs but I (obviously) do prefer Singer (or Singer based) triple feed machines cause they are fairly easy to adjust F + R stitch length like on the 111 and 211 models - the later 211 (at least the 211U) even have a screw for hat.

deleted - sorry

was a double link above, this is what I had in mind https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2yfwePfD-iU

MTV woke me up with this when I was in Bosnia well, speaking of Sandra Nasic (Guano Apes) - some of my 1990´s 2000´s favorites were: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNo2-viKfW8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNo2-viKfW8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9jJufz9RNE Last but not least

Industrial standard thread size is usually not calculated by diameter it is calculated by weight per 1000 meters or similar. The diameter is an approx guesstimate - in most cases to help (or confuse) the end consumer. Linen thread is another story. Have fun with this: http://www.cleavebooks.co.uk/scol/ccdentex.htm This table may be useful too.

if you have the same machine as mentioned above then pushing up the stitch length lever is putting this machine in reverse. The screw left of it is a limiter screw for the lever and sets the stitch length.

looks like an early Dürkopp 17 - kind of.

Send me a PM with your email address

Are you using a round point needle or a leather needle? Have you tried a 1 size thinner thread on the bottom or maybe a 1 size larger needle?