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oclack

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Everything posted by oclack

  1. oclack

    Foot press

    oclack replied to pinkchaps's topic in Old/Sold

    Is this still available? I'd be interested if you can provide a few pics. Please text me at 979-two-five-five-5179 or shoot me an email at hello[at]odinleathergoods.com. Thanks.
  2. oclack
    That's outstanding work!
  3. oclack
    I know this thread is getting old, but I thought I'd throw my two cents in... I made wallets for a while using this ribbon pocket method (mainly because the t-pocket method was scary to me back then). To cut down on weight and bulk, I opted to use black Tyvek instead of leather or cloth. Its so thin, that when closed you would only feel the two layers of leather. Someone else here on LW.net made that suggestion to me and I'm still grateful for it. It works great. The contact cement bond was plenty strong enough without any stitches. I used it in my personal wallet for two years and have received no bad feedback from customers. The problem is that it takes a lot of time to glue up. Since becoming more serious about selling my goods, I'm now always concerned with productions times. I've since switched to the t-pocket method. Once I got going and comfortable with the assembly and prep steps I can easily produce 10-15 wallet interiors with the t-pocket method, compared to maybe 1-2 using ribbon-method the in the same about of time. Now... If they ever developed a REALLY good double side 1/4" tape that held leather as well as Barge contact cement... I'd started doing more of the ribbon style card slots again. I could really crank those suckers out then.
  4. oclack
    I'm eagerly awaiting your patterns for this one. I've been working/experimenting with a mail bag inspired design for weeks now, but I'm struggling with the right construction process - mainly how to attach the top. Since I've never actually seen and touched one of these Bucheimer bags I'm not sure if my sizing is correct. I'm also confused as to how to add the front pocket with that little pleat. Thanks for helping us all with this.
  5. oclack
    Very cool!
  6. oclack
    Wish I had found this thread a week or two ago. I've been going through hell try to get an order for ZW. The web site listed the sides as in stock. A week and a half later I called to ask about my order and I'm told they're out of the hides I ordered and were waiting to get more but didn't have any idea when that would be. Why they didn't call me or email me to tell me that, I don't understand. As a result I have customers on my end who have already paid, who will probably be canceling their orders with me now. Very frustrating. I cant find that specific Crazy Horse leather anywhere else unfortunately.
  7. oclack
    Well... After a lot of trial and a lot of error I think we may have finally gotten this machine squared away. The mechanis over at Bogle-Greenwell (some of you may know Leo) found that the pressure spring was just way too heavy - probably a result of this being an old factory machine. Turning the pressure knob on top of the machine was having little affect especially in the light weight leather I'm stitching. After cutting off an 1.5" of the spring the problem seems to be resolved. I'm hauling it back to the workshop now. The test runs we did look great, but the real test will be how it handles these 40 wallets waiting for me on the work bench. I'm very hopeful that I'll finally be able to put this machine to work and start to recoup the money I've out into it. Thank you all for the help. I'll let you know how things turn out.
  8. oclack
    Would it be completely foolished to swap out this machine for a Consew227? I have to get these wallets knocked out ASAP. If the Pfaff 335 can't be corrected to work properly and not scare thin leathers, like this Wicket & Craig harness, I feel I should start looking at other options. I've had this machine nearly a year and haven't bren able to produce hardly a thing? Can the Consew 227 stitch with 138 thread? Are there a variety of foot options? What about a flatbed or table attachment?
  9. oclack
    I was able to figure out how to rotate the outer foot to fall on the needle plate more squarely, but its still producing that nasty marking on this softer leather - maybe due to the still sharp edge of the needle plate. Since I'm under the gun to get a batch of wallets out in the next week I decided to just take the machine down to Bogle-Greenwell and have his guys look over the machine for me. If they can't offer a solution to get me up and running properly, I'll have to consider trading it in and finding a different machine. I know he has a couple of Consew 227 machines a few flatbeds that may work for my needs too. We'll see.
  10. oclack
    I was thinking this would help as well. It seems that the way the outer presser foot is hitting the plate, is creating an awkward sandwiching of the leather causing it to rub and leave those ugly marks. If the pressor foot was hitting the plate more squarely this may be reduced. How do I do this? I don't see an obvious (at least not to me) way to adjust the rotation of the presser foot. BTW... Thanks for the help guys!
  11. oclack
    BTW... The video above shows a new inner and outer foot installed.
  12. oclack
    Wiz, I think that's more of my Dremel hack job than anything. I attempted to smooth out the feet and cut off some of the extra length of the inner foot to help see the needle better. The inner foot could definitely use a bit of work, but at least its not marking the leather anymore. Its the outer foot giving me hell. After looking at it again... I seems that the outer foot is slamming against the needle plate to the point of bending it a bit. The outer foot is also turned out to the left a bit giving it a funny angle on the pressor feet. Here's a quick video of the action... <iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Wjc1XAbaYpc?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  13. oclack
    I have been battling with this machine since day 1 and have on several occasions thought about trading it in for a Singer 31-15 or something like a TechSew 2700. But each time I have someone tell me about about how great they are and perfect for what I want to do. I primarily want to use this machine for wallets, dress belts, Dopp bags and pouches. I have been battling with this machine since day 1 and have on several occasions thought about trading it in for a Singer 31-15 or something like a TechSew 2700. But each time I have someone tell me about about how great they are and perfect for what I want to do. I primarily want to use this machine for wallets, dress belts, Dopp bags and pouches.
  14. oclack
    I did worry that this is at least part of the issue, but also assumed it was like this on all 335 machines. Do you know if the cant/rotation of the feet can be changed?
  15. oclack
    Howdy, I'm wracking my brain trying to figure out why my Pfaff 335 is marking my leather, especially at the start of a stitch line where I backtack. I've attempted to lighten the pressure of the presser-feet by backing off the knurled nob at the top of the machine, to the point it is barely hanging on to the machine, but it doesn't seem to have much of an impact. The inner presser foot seems to be fine, but the out foot is an issue. I've even placed my finger under the presser foot (machine off and needle out of course) to see if I can feel any difference in the pressure bing applied... I'm not sure what it should feel like, but its heavy. Seems like the the top pressure is not being affected by loosening the knob on top. That said, I haven't a clue what I'm doing. I've included a few picture to show how loose the top knob is, the position of the presser feet (they seem a bit canted to the left) and the marks being left on the leather. BTW... I'm stitching 3-4oz harness leather from Wicket & Craig. Any ideas whats going on here?
  16. oclack
    SailRite's HH-66 vinyl glue works GREAT and has the added benefit of an even shorter setup time compared to other contact cements like Barge. You can do it with Barge, but you'll need a couple of coats and to play around with your timing.
  17. oclack
    Caroline, That setup for your Pfaff is fantastic. I have a 335 and have Ben trying figure out a flatbed solution for it. I can build that. Thanks! Mcfingrs, I also have a 441 clone from Bogel-Greenwell. He located not to far away from me. I was just there a couple days ago. I bought the flatbed attachment from Cobra Steve last month and it works great. You can also use Steve's pressor feet and other 441 parts. - Odin
  18. oclack
    If the teeth on the standard throat plat are marking my leather, is this a top pressure issue, or should I be looking for a smooth through plate?
  19. oclack
    Well fellas! I think I've got it. With help from Wiz and Steve, the problem seems to be resolved. The machine is stitching forward and reverse without skipping the the obnoxious clicking (and probably damaging) caused by the needle rubbing the hook is gone - and I pray is stays that way! Using Wiz's recommendations, I removed the weird spacer and set the stitch length to zero before adjusting the shuttle position to set the hook in the middle of the needle scarf. I also set the needle back to the top of the bar. Finally I have the hook assembly a good oiling and that removed the last bit of rubbing (I don't understand why, but it worked). I'm relieved and ready to get back to finishing this run of satchels. Learned a lot, but hope not to have to apply it again. Now if I can just figure out how to keep the needle plate and upper presser feet from marking the leather - probably a pressure issue. Thanks all for the help!
  20. oclack
    Okay. I've checked for play in the drive shaft - there is none. At the same time I did take notice of what I'd call as gasket in the assembly. I don't know the technical terms for the parts, so I've attached a picture below. The part doesn't seem to be original - in fact is almost looks hand cut. Can any tell me if this is a standard part on 441 machines? I removed it and tested on some scrap. The shuttle hook doesn't seem to be touching (i.e. scrapping) again the needle on the up stroke, but it does have a little contact on the down stroke - but far less than before.
  21. oclack
    Thanks Steve and Wiz. Steve we spoke briefly yesterday... I'll be ordering a DVD and new pressor feet from you soon. I was hoping to get this machine back in working condition quickly, but I'm a bit dubious on that now. Here's a quick video of the action. I think it may show the issues more clearly. A close up of the need hitting the hook: http://youtu.be/54smDtS-ClY?t=17s A view from the front... You can see the needle jump/pop as the hook passes it: http://youtu.be/uSWtSpEox0k?t=22s A view of the complete action: http://youtu.be/vQsVdRFoIJQ I'll check for play in the along the hook drive shaft as Steve mentioned, when I get back to the workshop.
  22. oclack
    Wiz, Should the needle ever come in contact with the point of the hook? On the down strok the need briefly slides down the left side of the hook. On the susequent up stroke the hook point touched the needles scarf before piping to the right.
  23. oclack
    I’m pulling may hair out… Right in the middle of a production run my SewPro Mini-441 machine has flaked out on me. The machine seized suddenly in the middle of a stitch line. I removed the bobbin case and cleared the jammed thread and also took a moment to change out out the lower feed dog - I went from a toothed to a smooth one. Now it seems the timing is off. I’ve made adjustments by repositioning the bobbin case (as shown in the Al Bane video). I also installed a new need just in case it was bent - that hasn’t helped. The machine is now stitching forward cleanly, but skips stitches going in reverse. The machine has always made clicking noises, but I never paid much attention it. I now believe (I’m nearly certain) the hook is hitting the needle with each revolution - just worse than before. The needle doesn’t seem to be coming in contact with the deflector at all, but does rub the hook. At first It wouldn’t stitch forward at all, so I adjusted the bobbin case and now forward is okay-ish - but the needle still comes in contact with the hook. I’m certain that shouldn’t happen - right? On reverse it may catch one or two stitches, then skips all the rest. Any ideas or help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
  24. oclack
    Thanks all! I'm going to reach out to all of them.
  25. oclack
    I actually have a Efka Variostop motor with air hookup on a Pfaff 335 I just acquired. After asking around here on the forum (see here), I don't think its what I need. I'm going to switch it out for a servo motor next week. Currently heeling the pedal raises the center foot and needle. It works very well, quite, strong and can go very fast or stitch by stitch... Its just not what I need. If you're interested just let me know and I'll get you more details.
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