oltoot

If you sew much, you will probably run in to thread that is dry and fuzzy and gives you nightmares if you don't lube it and smooth it up

You are describing two types of work. The dog leash is what is often referred to as Lap Skiving and no there is no power machine for that. Bench machines are widely available that copy the old Osborne pattern. Osborne has even revived its original version. For the other (which almost sounds like 2 more) a Cobra 14 would be just the ticket, however, it will skive whole pieces to a uniform thickness and cannot treat edges differently. To do that would take bootmaking welt skiving machines (hand cranked). Actually I think you just want the whole piece "leveling" that would be provided by the Cobra 14. Artisan makes a 20" model but that may be capacity you would never use. There are hand cranked machines with 6" and 8" capacity available much cheaper if that would serve all your needs.

Myself, I would first immerse them in warm water and leave them until no more bubbles, then roll them out flat, check out the wrinkle theory. if there were a few, smooth them out with a glass or hardwood slicker then start with the light oiling. You can skip the saddle soap, Don't wait for them to get dry before starting with the oiling. Go easy with oiling as for sole bends you want the result to still be quite stiff and flexible but not pliable. From all the products listed above i would use Lexol nf, reason being it is deep penetrating without darkening and it has worked well for me with wet leather.

On mine, that top piece with three holes in it is turned way down clockwise so that it is at about 90 deg with the ground and then the thread leaves the third hole parallel with the ground and gets a much better purchase in the top tension assembly before going down to the bottom wheel. those angles of departure keep thread in much more secure contact that in your picture

Not when used reasonably in moderation. Dirt is a worse enemy than a little SS. In excess, definitely yes. There are other products that are preferable for repeated use; a range of glycerin products, Murphy's oil soap, warm water and elbow grease. SS is alkaline in composition. Therein lies the potential problem. When I was just a hairy legged boy I had a girlfriend who had some English tack she had been given, no horse just tack. Every day she would lovingly lather it up with yellow soap until it was saturated through and through, soft and supple to be sure. After a few years when she saved her money and got a horse the tack came out of reserve into active service. Alas, even though it looked nearly new, it didn't last long. She had literally loved it to death but that took a lot of lather. It eventually did comprimise the fiber structure, weakening it. Repeated use had tipped the PH balance away from the optimum.

Yes, even w/ 50+ years experience I still sand and glue most sewing projects to cut down on the sweat and tears

Just curious, what's the ethnicity of the design on the billfold? It looks like NW Coastal Native American?

The answer to the question re aluminum is basically no. But you have quite a few with copper mouth pieces and those would still be useful. If some are actually steel, they too might be useful. Reason aluminum is no, take one that you know is A and after washing the mouthpiece, lick it with your tongue enough to get the taste, then after washing your mouth out do the same with one of the copper ones. Notice the difference in taste. A horse will, too. Now then, having said that, what you have is still basically a box of old junk. Someone who was interested could go through it and find some that would be keepers and chuck the rest.

Anything I make that is going to have the potential to rust something gets hung in front of a fan for quite awhile. Another thought would be to suggest small Kydex point protector/liners within the leather scabbard, then, if by design, the chisel point is going to rest weighted on the bottom then a small, replaceble leather bumper for the bottom would protect both chisel and case, you could send her home with a baggy full of replacement bumpers.

Knife metal work is awesome as is handle, stitching on sheath is great, oak leaves are well done. Just one tiny suggestion. Rather than just abruptly stop the uppermost stem, next time take the time to design a credible point of beginning with a little leaf or acorn hull on each side and either pointing or rounding the terminus

Your drawing is probably way off scale. The real goal would be to learn by look and feel where you can put your piece to achieve your goal. Hide character transitions in both directions. A small piece is more likely to find its 'home' parallel. It might be helpful to picture the animal that the hide once covered and see how the live requirements were different in different areas. Your requirement for smooth folding would normally be met by staying parallel but dropping down into the upper belly. I myself don't want the bellies cut off most leather I use because my choice of suitable for different uses is limited. Watching the videos of the tanning process available on line (Hermann Oak, Chahin, etc) might be helpful in understanding the 'behavior' that first brought you to this forum. Large, wet, hides, irregularly shaped in all directions, are forced flat through rollers and blades. In drying they are just trying to regain some of their original shape. And you see why necks often still show some signs of wrinkles as well as armpits, etc. Anyway, I work with plywood, too and it is perfectly uniform and DEAD. I prefer living materials.

The marks come from running dry pieces through the splitter after tanning to get exact and even weight. As long as they are just lines like that and not solid brown patches, they will pose no problems in use. So your decision is based on the type of projects you will be making and if the flesh side will show or not. I would be sure to explain why I was returning if I chose to do so and in the future, when you order specially cut pieces, tell them what you will be using them for to avoid future dissappointments.

You sir are a scoundrel of the first order!!

A but I don't like the font. If you can just eliminate the loop on the P it will become much clearer that there are 2 different letters

I guess even your friends won't tell you. Your pics didn't load

24x24 would be hard to outgrow without a public display or waiting area, maybe a 20x20 garage kit would fit the budget and if so be doable with not very experienced help

Me too. Send me instructions for payment

parts and service availability, remaining useful life, The gears, etc of #3 were manufactured to low speed, low heat tolerances. A #3 that has been motorized and operated at high speeds could have tooth wear that would surface. That said, a #3 that has always been treadle powered is more than 1/2 what the CR is. It wouldn't be quite as ultra heavy work suited and is a little more finicky as to thread, adjustments, etc. Now with that said if a new CR is actually within your grasp, my advice (being free its worth three times what it cost) is make the lifetime investment.

After all these years! Who woulda thunk that there was a tool. I've accomplished the same thing with a knife that has a long, slim point though it takes a little longer than 15 minutes and a little tongue biting to boot. Over the years I have run in to a few that were sewn with the machine adjusted so that the lock was way low (in the space between the skirt and the woolskin) that thwarted me and almost every stitch had to be pulled out as the top thread was cut a lot. Just a few though!

Years ago I used a CR. I was an employee of the shop when it opened and we had a CR lease machine to start. We had been used to a Landis 16 and a 12? so needle and awl was all we knew. We unpacked the CR and each had about 2 hrs practice, then went on. We had no more issues than we had been used to. That was in the 60s so we were still using linen thread and the wax pot. Now then, all that said, N&A machines are different than single needle, some say better. I imagine that if you do get one and get through the adjustment period still grinning that you will use your Cobra (fine machine that it is) less and less, finally relegating it to materials such as fabrics.

And what would be some of the materials available and their relative prices? I would think that just good, straight grained walnut would be fine. Wish I knew where you could get the chucks without having to buy the speedy stitcher but I don't recall ever seeing them.

You can purchase geometric stamps from several makers that feature four ovals and a center seed. They can be used in a variety of ways. The way you have picked being perhaps the hardest to keep straight. Having the impressions touch each other gives more alignment aids as you go. This pattern can be produced with a single oval seeder and a round one but why? If you already have the single impression tools and don't plan to do this very often, Maybe. But if you're gonna have to buy tools go ahead and spend a little more on the composite. As to the beveling, practice, practice and think about your work surface. The more solid it is, the easier it will be to produce good beveling.

My first guess would be buckskin, second elk. If hide is from Florida buckskin most likely; however, what is large? Large deer hides tend to be quite rare in the ordinary commercial setting. If 20 ft +, might be buckskin tanned cowhide. Without handling and smelling hard to tell.

Whatever route you use to sharpen be very watchful not to get the piece hot and take the temper out. keep a container of water handy and dip frequently. DO NOT let the metal change color. That said, the next time you are shopping for an edged cutting tool consider the Master line from Weaver. They will come sharp. I punch with an 8 lb maul on a poly board on a 6" piece of granite on a solid steel stand and I have to be careful not to hit my Weavers too hard or they will cut clear through the poly. On the other hand I can whack most Osbornes to my heart's content. And some I sharpen while others I keep a little dull, depending on their predominate use.

All that is well said but fenders are called 'sweat leathers' also and if the hard spots do not have the 'gunk' behind them but are just smooth and polished in appearance I'm afraid the they are usually 'lost' to softening. This can be prevented with periodic deep cleaning and oil replacement but if all the oils have been replaced by salt not much hope.