RavenAus

Something like Evo-stick contact adhesive should do it. Follow the instructions and work in a well ventilated area.

That doesn't sound like any of the rivet dies I have for my machine. Mine are all solid metal, no springs or rubber gaskets.The only ones with gaskets are the snap dies, and both the eyelet and snaps have springs on some.

Does anyone know the people at Leather Unltd? http://leatherunltd.com/index.html I placed an order with them (Order Number: 55625) over a month ago and I've had nothing but the automated website response since, despite emailing more than once. I'm in Australia, their work day finished as I got up this morning, so they'd already put the phone on answering machine when I called. If this goes on much longer I'll have to put in a Paypal refund request! All I want is a keyfob mallet die :/

Angelus had a neutral mixer to use instead of the alcohol, I was told by the shop (Lefflers, AU) alcohol didn't work too well so you should always use the neutral to lighten

Good idea I'd probably do the end as an English point instead of round, of you could model it, but yeah, nice idea

I use Aussie Leather Conditioner. Doesn't darken much at all, and water just beads up on it even after the first application

Try em with 3mm veg

That I can't help with, I've only seen the Angelus ones, sorry. Maybe get a pen like that and flood it with dye?

Angelus do one like that for their dye, it's in 2 versions, chisel tip and fine tip.

Thanks for this, just got asked to do a fender bib for a lady and this tutorial is perfect

What's the inside dyed with? Antique gel? I've only ever used that on the grain side, not the flesh. You'll need a proper sealer I should think, aussie conditioner is not a sealer

I'd say closed off, or you'll have no guide as to where to resist to

Thank you for this, very informative I'm going to try it in the morning I think!

By buffing they mean getting a cloth and rubbing it until no dye comes off. Which is why I don't use those dyes The dye I use needs no buffing to get rid of excess, you just spray'brush it on, seal, and go. Job done.

This is the precise reason I won't use Fiebings oil dyes. I use Cobblestones spirit dyes and I've never had issues with dye bleeding. The only issue I have at all is they are almost impossible to resist against for 2-tone work.

Brendah, this is the pattern I used - http://butterick.mccall.com/b5797-products-22969.php?page_id=916 Just be aware of the seam allowance etc I mentioned in my earlier posts

Stick some sandpaper to a flat piece of board. Put the board in the jaws just tight enough to catch and tighten gently as you rub the board back and forth. Should even out the jaws for you. Then line with leather.

It's basically the same as Worbla. It's used a lot by cosplayers to make moulded armour and props.

I put some jewellers rouge on a piece of thin card and fold it over a metal rule. It's just about perfect for the inside of a #2 beveller.

I've used the bra idea for pattern making, had a customer in the UK wanted a bustier making - a very bustier, as she was a G cup. Bought a bra from an op shop, adjusted my tailors dummy to her other measurements and padded the bra out on the dummy. I guess if you wanted you could do that and use fibreglass or plaster on the bra to get a form to mould on.

I use 2mm veg shoulders for the majority of my work, they are not that hard? If the edge is really flexible I generally wet it a little and lay it on the bench while I buff it with a piece of denim or canvas. I also usually dye first as the dye stiffens it up a little.

Yes, 8 months. I was working full time then, right now this is my income source. Thing is, you have a good start, but if you want something better you'll have to put the effort in yourself. There's very few free patterns out there that are around the same level you're at, trust me I looked.

Took me 8 months and quite a few prototypes to get my pattern right, what with work and all, the only way you'll get a good one is time and trial Those of us who have a good one usually made it ourselves and are selling the masks, so we don't tend to release the patterns.

My supplier is within easy driving distance, about 30 minutes out. I use them because they always stock top quality at the best price in Brisbane. If you do want to try good imported leather, try calling Tracy at East Coast Leather - http://www.eastcoastleather.com.au/

Packers mainly just do roo. I've not heard of the other. My local supplier can't get veg cowhide from within Australia any more, it's mostly from South America and South Africa. Even the NZ tanneries have closed