daveottawa

I don't know the fellow personally, I just saw that he posted on his Skinner Leather FB page that he is now an authorized dealer for Leather Machine Company. Probably best thing is to send him a message through Facebook enquiring. I'm aware of him only because he is also a member of the 'Tips and Tricks with Cobra Class Leather Working Equipment' FB group.

Try this link: https://www.facebook.com/skinnerleather/?timeline_context_item_type=intro_card_work&timeline_context_item_source=890760061&pnref=lhc

I don't know about Cowboy brand but there's a Leather Machine Co dealer for the Cobra line in Ottawa now. their webpage is: https://www.leathermachineco.com/

I saw this clip on Youtube. Jump ahead to see the idea at 2:55-3:30. I wonder if this is really practical. If it works it may make fast work of holes vs punching.

Delivery companies expect us to sign that we’ve received goods in good condition but it’s usually impractical to check the item properly if it’s a heavily packaged item. No delivery driver is going to wait until we’ve taken off all the packaging and carefully inspected our machine but they expect us to sign to say it was received in perfect condition. All you have time for usually is to carefully inspect the wrapping for tears that may indicate something poked through the shrink-wrap or crate. Take a pic of any suspicious areas. Best thing is to not sign or tick any box to the effect that it is in good condition unless you can see that it is, which you can’t without removing all the packaging, so you can leave that box unticked, or if you are just signing and it says “received in good condition” sign it but add “not checked in detail” or “subject to detailed inspection” and either cross out the sentence that says received in good condition or add the word ‘apparent’ to say ‘apparent good condition’. Or add the phrase, ‘no damages apparent on the exterior’. That’ll keep the transport driver happy and he can continue on his route. In reality, most States’ sale of goods acts allows us a “reasonable time” to examine new goods, usually a day or two to get back to the seller. Having said all that, in my opinion, the sewing machine companies most of us deal with like Cobra, Techsew, etc, have great people and if you find a damaged part soon after opening it all up, you’ll get it replaced by them, and they’ll decide whether to take it up with the transport company. Sorry about the wordy blurb.

Is that a typo? $850.. US dollars!

I don't know about that machine specifically, but since for other similar ones, Cobra, Cowboy, Techsew, the bobbin unspools counter clockwise as you sew, I think it's a safe bet to say it's the same for your machine.

I can't comment on the Techsew 2700's because I have a Techsew 3800 for over a year now, and had another model before that. I can say that you won't regret getting a machine from them. Service from them is great and Ron and the others know their stuff. And I'm lucky enough to only live 2 hours from their shop and can drop in once or twice a year to drool over the stock!

Geez, i luv being single!

I sit at mine. I have my tabletop at 29" and I use the stool from my drum. The table for my 3800 is adjustable down to about 24". Setting up the machine and adjusting the height is a 2 person job because the machine is pretty heavy and the levers you see underneath the machine in the pics need to be set for the height too. So you'll probably be leaving it set up for sitting or standing. I don't know the maximum table height but I'll suggest giving Ron a call or email at Techsew. He (or anyone there) is very helpful. I don't have any problems controlling the leather. I never even bothered to get a roller guide like lots of people use. But there are people on this forum with more expertise than me to comment on techniques of using a cylinder machine.

I've had two Techsew machines, the 3650, and now the 3800 for the past year. I'm just two hours away from their shop and so picked up both machines in person, seen their operation and met the guys. The machines were set up and ready to go when I bought them with the thread and needle sizes I would be using first. My experience has been great phone support for questions as I learned how to use the machines. I haven't had any mechanical problems with either machine so my questions were mostly to do with my own learning curve. So I'd say if you can guest-imate that the 2700 is right for you from watching videos, you'll be in good hands regarding support from the company later on.

One thing I did on my machine was to make sure that the concave piece the thread slides back and forth across is perfectly smooth. I lightly sanded it down when I noticed the thread was not sliding back and forth smoothly. I figure there may have been a tiny burr on it. I used the finest sandpaper until I could take a piece of thread and lightly pull it back and forth with no sticking. And try fiddling with the tension spring too.

Maybe someone in the Facebook group called 'Tips and Tricks with Cobra Class....' can help you. Cobras are similar enough that their posted experiences could have an answer for you.

Thanks Gottaknow. Where would I find that kind of needle spec information?

The specs for the 2750 on the Techsew site say the machine uses 135x17, sizes18-24. There's plenty of them on Amazon.ca too.

Of course he can! I get all my needles and thread from techsew for my machine.

Oh man! So nice. My grandfather was a tailor and had one of those back in the early 1950-1970's.

At this time I don't make enough items with that extra width to justify buying the 5100. The few times I did I just bent over the item 90 degrees to squeeze through! For me, a better option will be to keep the 3800 and eventually get a second machine, like a 2700, specifically to sew lighter stuff if I get interested in making that down the road once I figure the machine will pay for itself in a reasonable time. I learned from the pros here that I won't try to force one machine to do it all. Also, I think it would be nice to not have to fiddle with the tension when changing thicknesses. Like, leave the 3800 tensioned for thicker stuff and the 2700 tensioned for thinner stuff around 5oz or thinner.

I have a model 3800. It's just like the 5100, according to Techsew, but with only a 10.5" throat. I've gone from sewing 10 oz to putting trim on 6/7 oz and back again. I had to adjust tension as I expected. It was a learning curve and I got it now, with some help from the peeps at Techsew. It's only a month old and I'm very, very happy with it.

"..... book a motel room for a 5 day week."

The Tandy embossing machine ( that's the model 3800) pictured above on the e-Bay link has been the subject of a voluntary recall by Tandy because of inconsistent construction by their factory in China. Many machines were just not working. So I'll suggest people keep away from that model until the production problem is solved. It's too bad. They'd hoped that the new model would fix the problem with their previous embosser.

Love it! And by the end of it I forgot that I got into Youtube by clicking from this thread.

I use Medea Airbrush Cleaner fluid but most of the time just plain Windex with my Iwata brushes. Once in a while I soak parts soak in Windex for a few hours if they need it. (Don't soak the body.) Don't ferget to lube the shaft of the needle when you reassemble it. Here's a good link. http://www.airbrushguru.com/cleaning-your-airbrush.html

Ottawa here, Welcome.

Beautiful stuff! I dabble making tabletop steampunk gadgets and gizmos (short range time-travel machines, lamp guns, etc) in metal with just a bit of leather trim using leftovers, but you've inspired me to get cracking on some leather gear!