immiketoo

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Strangely interesting.

Yep. Its all about the relationship, and that's why its important to recognize good service when it happens!

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I hear you man. It's just the corporate mindset we all have these days. If I'm ever famous or respected in this field, I want everyone to be able to come to my shop and sit and chat. You have to respect the time he took to talk to an unknown nooob like me. As for my ME tool list, well, its obscene, so I won't list it!

So, I just ordered a variety of stamps from Barry King and the guy I was talking to was extremely knowledgable and very helpful. I got a bunch of the things I need and while we were closing out the transaction I asked who I was speaking with. Turns out it was Barry himself! I don't know why I expected it to be someone else, but I was pleasantly surprised and the service was outstanding! Barry listened to what I was trying to do, and was able to guide me to the tools I need and he was able to explain WHY i need them in order of importance, AND work with my budget. I highly recommend you give him a call if you want to purchase high quality tools and deal with a first rate company! Mike .

I am impressed!

So not helpful at all. Sorry the only other option I can think of is skiving, but ray skin is already thin and I don't know that you CAN skive it.

ray skin is really tough. You might have to poke the edges with so me sharp tools like a pick set. Or, you could try and leave a relatively large but deep channel for the skin so its easier to get in but wont come out. That's a tough dilemma.

Is that a dog tag?

What is the piece that you're trying to tuck it under? Its hard to answer without a bit more detail or bigger pics.

Bunny, a more consistent way to reduce the glare on your pics is to use a light box while shooting. This way, you wont have to frost your metal attachments prior to pics, nor will you have a problem with thawing

Paul, if you haven't had your answer's yet, or if you're in the Chicago burbs and dont want to deal with the city, let me know. Mike

looking good! Nice clean designs, good execution. Now tidy up the details!

If you have a design in mind, grey ghost graphics can make you a stamp of anything you want. Ask for Jeff. http://www.greyghostgraphics.com

if you are talking about a keeper loop, I dont see how you could machine stitch it. But then, I have zero experience with machine sewing.

For reference and drooling: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=41977

First of all, welcome to the forum! You will very likely find the answers you need here. I like the second choice for your armor and it looks like the construction is fairly straight forward. I think the most difficult part of this is going to be the pattern making. I would suggest that you start with some heavy paper of the kind of cardboard you find on the back of notepads. You can get large sheets of this at art stores and it will allow you to build a prototype you can wear to test movement and fitting. I have not built any armor, but I have studied the Samurai and their weapons and armor, and as such, movement is very important due to the variety of weapons they used. If you google armor construction, there are quite a few videos on the construction of armor and you might find some help there. Forming the shoulders and breast cups will require a body form as you mentioned and there are plenty of threads in the forum covering wet molding leather, some are even armor related. That being said, there is a section in the forum for armor. It can be found here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=26 Decoration is up to your imagination and desired use. Since you mentioned archery, you might look at some historical archery websites for ideas if you haven't already. Again, welcome to the forum and please keep us up to date on your progress! There are many members here who are interested in your type of project. Mike

Thats cool. It looks like its made of grass. Or bark. Its very organic.

I wish I could see his face when he gets them!

Chris, here's the leaf I wanted to show you earlier... Chris, here's the leaf I wanted to show you earlier...

I have the setter and I have found that an easier way to do this is a) bend the prongs so they are parallel to each other. press the prongs on the leather where you want them. c) cut small slits with an exacto knife blade. d) insert spots by hand and follow with setter. e) bend prongs over and set with a hammer and punch. This sounds more time consuming, but when you account for the spots you don't have to remove, the unsightly dings in your leather and the added precision, its a better method for me.

So how'd it work?

Thats a really slick design, and its versatile as well.