Red Cent

http://centralsierranevadahorsetrails.com/tackbarn/leatherconditioners.html

http://www.johan-potgieter.com/dubbin.shtml Interesting. Never heard of the stuff. Don't think I want to make it. I would use it.

Asallwey, I would like to see some responses to the question. IMO, however inexperienced, is neatsfoot on all the leather. Some, just a wipe on or so, and some a dunk. The catch to my experience that I do not tool much.

A very subjective matter, judging leather work.

Duh. That is neat. And to think I have two grinders in the garage. And one of 'em is a dual grinder. I took a 2' dowel rod about 6 " long and using a milling vise, got awfully close to the center and drilled a hole. 1/4" bolt, nuts on both sides. Put in the drill press and using a heavy tooth file and the milling vise, trued the dowel and finished with 220 sandpaper. Then with an assortment of rat-tail files created a number of grooves. Made three of 'em. Who needs cocobolo?

"There are a lot of leatherworkers that do very poopy work, on here too." Boy, that is going to make us newbies paranoid. ChiefJason, I agree. I have some hanging in the shop that I won't ship but they are very functional . I won't sell them until I get better. I recently made a couple for some paying friends and the response was great. Makes me feel a little better. My first ones were terrible but I didn't know how bad they were. Between Cas City and here, the bar is being established. One step at a atime.

What Wiz said. I found that when that problem happened, the thread "caught" on the spool thread. Any time the thread is impeded, no matter how little, it creates super tension in those discs especially the lower one.

Wiz, when I got my Cobra 4, I could not pull thread from the take up arm, much less from the needle. I still have scars trying to get it right. It has become habit to reach up to the take up arm. Cascabel, I do not wrap the thread around the top disc (just snap it in) and down. I do not go around the lower tension "pulley" but 3/4 and out through the spring. Both tension nuts are loose all the way. Just tight enough to keep them against he spring. Almost zero tension. And I cannot pull the thread with the product. And the C4 sews great. Couple of pictures.

Are you reaching up to the take up arm for extra thread or are you pulling the thread with the product?

HTH2300. Got questions. Do you intend to burnish and complete the edges or leave it in the rough? Are you going to dye the leather and/or give it a good bath in neatsfoot oil? Not necessary but I guess we expect it. I am not a handstitcher so I can't really comment on that. A straight forward and good design. Good first job. Lot to learn grasshopper.

http://www.vintagegunleather.com/shoppe/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_11_13&products_id=562

Most common "home" vacuums will draw some moisture out of the product. Not enough, but the leather will keep a good form if handled carefully and allowed to dry. It does show the important lines if one would like to further form the holster. And, as stated, you can form while the vacuum exists.

I would suggest the belt never goes below the trigger guard's lowest horizontal line.

I agree with a strong belt. I make mine with a 8-9 outer and a 4-5 liner. If your holster twists the belt away from the body it will waggle back and forth and slap the body. And the belt should fit the slots. A secure handgun drawn quickly should not move the holster up and down.

Yes, the plastic/leather marriage is very successful. I guess I will give in and do some. Do you get the snaps/clips/? from Knife Kits?

Should get a bunch of answers. However, your questions are the basics of holster building. I use 8-9 for the outer and 4-5 for the lining. I skive both pieces in the fold of the holster. I glue them together, do the beveling, sanding, and edge finishing, then sew. You may get a wrinkle or two inside but that is the usual. Some handstitchers fold then glue then sitich. You might want to read about making patterns. It wasn't mentioned in your post. And if the DVDs of John Bianchi making a holster and gunbelt is in the budget, I would highly reccommend them. $50.00. Try Ebay.

I am using this to form kydex holsters. One layer on bottom and as much as you want on top. Dense and kinda tough. I don't do much boning and I am satisfied with light forming. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stansport-Pack-Lite-Camping-Pad/9856753?action=product_interest&action_type=image&placement_id=irs_middle&strategy=PWVUB&visitor_id=54388131607&category=0%3A4125%3A4128%3A1075006%3A1080584&client_guid=1e78baa9-1db4-448e-a334-8f6e2546c8fe&config_id=0&parent_item_id=10957723&guid=80bcd17d-3678-4cc8-9460-123a0f61abb9&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&findingMethod=p13n I use a cheap vacuum bagger (leftovers ) to from a lot of my holsters. I get pretty good definition if left overnight. 'Course it will never dry in the bag.

All of those are not Galco. The full tunnel will hold the holster/firearm firmly against your body. I would think that much leather would not wear so easily. I like both worlds as some show. Part tunnel and part slot. Glockanator, If you have ever worn a SOB, you will find that you need to be nimble to accomplish a quick draw. I would suggest to them a butt down SOB. Pretend you have a SOB on and reach for the grip their way. Now pretend the butt is down and reach. Ergonomics. I am a little nutty that way.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=sob+holsters&qpvt=sob+holsters&FORM=IGRE

Photo is too small but from what I see, the holster looks very good except the stitches are awfully close to the edge

Looks great ChiefJason.

Today, after reading about all the suggestions about needles fitting a certain thread, I changed my #25 needle out for a #24. I use 277 poly on top and 207 poly on bottom. The result, sewing 2 pieces of 8-9 and one piece of 4-5 together, was the top thread laying flat with bobbin thread showing. Removed the old thread from the leather piece, replaced the needle with the 25 and it sewed great. And subsequent pieces also. 'Course, you have to remember how I have things set up.

Nice fabric!

Visiting other sites I find that those who make western holsters for the period do not "line" their holsters. Having a number of commercially produced competitive holsters, most all are "lined". I suppose any second layer can be called a liner but it is confusing sometimes. I also use two layers for most holsters. On the western holsters, I use an 8-9 on the outer and 4-5 on the inner. In John Bianchi's DVDs, he advocates an outer of 8-9 and a liner of 7-8. Makes for a really strong holster after wetting and molding and drying.

Have you tried adjusting the stitches per inch? Seems awfully long. And the pictures show really long stitches in the corner. That usually happens if you turn the corner incorrectly. On the 441, I would suggest turning the top tension (only) disc 1/4 turn tight. At a time then test.The thread has not enough tension to overcome the bobbin thread. I use 277 poly on top and 207 poly on bottom with a 25 needle. I have almost no tension on either disc. Light bobbin tension. Have you read the post from Massive on how to adjust the bobbin tension?