medsar

+1 for a Bear Maul. I am very happy with the one Ed n Beary made for me a couple years ago. http://www.leatherburnishers.com/BearMauls.html

The asking price is the retail price for a working 29-4 patcher with a base.

PM sent

Casemaker, this thread has long been dead. You might want to post a new thread with pictures and a price.

Congrats on your wife getting the new position -- especially in this economy!! Sorry to hear you have to let the business go.

Do you have pictures? Prices? Do you ship or is it local only? --Thanks

on oldcowpoke.com. It appears that he/she has problems with their SQL database connection, so we can't see any of their goods. Oh well. On to other things...

Free Plug for this sale. I don't know the seller, but I do know the tormek system. It is top notch and I use mine all the time for woodworking tools, kitchen knives, hunting knives and some of my leatherworking tools. Most of the leatherworking tools need to be at super-sharp levels, so I don't use the tormek for them *that* much. However, I do use the leather strop side of the tormek for my round knife and belt punches. Hopefully I am not stepping on Mike's toes here, but the standard tormek grindstone is 220 grit, but can be.....'switched' to a 1000 grit stone using the stone grader. I plan on buying the 4000 grit stone for my tormek -- that will make the transition to stropping with alum oxide or rouge much faster. This is a great price considering he is accepting paypal (and the huge credit card fees).

This has sold. Thank you.

SPF

With much hesitancy, I am selling my Tippmann Boss. I am one of those who likes the Boss and I have found it very useful. However, I found a screaming deal on a 441 that I couldn't pass up. I have been trying to find a reason to keep the boss since I like it so much, but I hate to see it collect dust. I want to see it used. I am not 100% sure if it's aluminum or cast iron, but I think it's aluminum. It's a 'Boss 2' by the serial number (just barely) and a magnet won't stick to it except at the end. However, it does have all steel gears/internals. It has very little use on it. Actually, I had 2 Bosses -- one cast iron and then this one. This was the 'reserve' Boss. It has been through....maybe 1/2 a spool of thread. I have shown a pic of the internal parts to show the little wear. Included in the sale: Tippmann Boss (of course) Standard Presser Foot Left Presser Foot Right Presser Foot Center Presser Foot Extra Needle Plate (standard needle plate) Extra Bobbins Cobbler Bench (shown in pictures) I have also included a sample of a belt I stitched with this Boss. (Note: no makin' fun of my leather-skillz) Price is $1000 for everything. I would prefer to sell locally (Seattle, WA) because I have no idea how the heck I would ship the cobbler bench. I know Tippmann does it, but that would be a huge hassle.

I may be corrected by the actual experts, but I *think* that the wax is resisting the dye from completely absorbing. I used some of Tandy's waxed thread for a while and it had a TON of wax. The wax is still rubbing off projects that were made a year ago. So, I would *think* that using standard nylon thread would take the dye better (or nylon thread with a little beeswax if you are hand stitching).

I am a happy owner of a Boss. There is a distinct learning curve, they take a delicate hand to tension correctly, but they work well. I finally got a good setup of pressor feet and a cobbler bench, etc etc. Then I find an amazing deal on an Artisan Toro 3000 that I couldn't pass up. It works and it seems to work well. So, now the dilemma and the question for y'all. Do I keep the Boss? I don't any repair work, nor do I need my leatherwork to be portable. Is there anything the Boss does better than the 441 clone?

I go to the local art supply store and buy those sheets of pressed cardboard for 50 cents each or 69 cents each. They come in 'picture sizes' like 8x12, 11x18, 20x24 etc etc. If I want a more permanent pattern, I go to hardboard.

is there a lot of demand for shoemaking/bespoke lasts in the US? I'd like y'all's opinion before I spend the huge amount of time doing to a market assessment

Sorry, this is sold.

What did you use to stain it?

First off, I own the regular cocobolo burnisher from Beary and one of their Bearmauls. I have been very impressed with their products and I will buy another Bearmaul and the hoslter burnisher in the future. 1.) How do I know which one/ones to get? (The leather I use is 8oz so doubled over at the buckle point would be 16oz) **** I use the regular burnisher for gun belts and other heavy duty belts (16-18oz all said and done) and the regular one works well. I think of the holster special for...just that. Knife and some types of gun holsters. BUT, I do recommend emailing Beary and asking 'em which one to buy. I did that with my Bearmaul and my burnisher and I was pleased with their recommendation. 2.) What tool do I get to attach it to? I don't have a bench I can drill in to, so a drill press is out for now (later that will change). So either a lathe, or a handheld drill? Will a handheld drill be too difficult to work with for smoothing edges? I'm not the strongest person so am weary that my hands and wrists will get sore still! *** Holding the drill and burnishing would be hard. So, I bought a Harbor Freight drill (I don't like HF products, but their drill has lasted and it has a variable speed built into the switch). I cut the handle off and mounted the plastic drill case inside of an aluminum project box using rivets and epoxy. I have it mounted sideways so the burnisher is orthogonal to the benchtop but parallel to the ground/ceiling. I also bought a foot switch for the plug so I can just step on the button and the thing goes. I spent $20 on the drill, 10$ on the box, and around $8-10 for the switch ($40 total). That may be a little fancy. But I have seen pictures of people taking a drill and a some metal plumbers tape to mount the drill sideways on the table. Or you can take the drill apart like I did and screw the plastic case to your benchtop and then re-assemble the drill. Another reason to buy the HF drill -- it has a built in 'stay-on' feature so you can depress the trigger once and then it stays on until you push another a button. That way, you get two hands to work the leather. Does any of this make any sense at all? If you're worried about building a setup like I described, you can always buy the dremel setup.... Hope this helps

Bucskins (I assume you are referring to buckskins) are essentially suede. <hiding and ducking for cover from the people who brain-tan their own deerskins to buckskins> So, yes, you do have worry about stretching...somewhat. Buckskins are very tough for their thickness. If my memory of moccasins serves me well, buckskins were second only to moose leather for both toughness and ability grip the ground. So unless you are making something that will have a lot of linear tension on the leather, I wouldn't worry about it. For bags, I would hide an inner lining of diamond rip-stop nylon where there is going to be the most tension to prevent stretching. In fact, I do that on the leather bags I make out of 2-3oz leather with suede inner linings. As to stitching...I think the reason we see so much lacing used to stitching buckskins is because that is the culture of the people who look for items made of buckskins. You can do either depending on your application/design. Aussie stranders are on sale at Tandy right now.

I second stitching much closer to the gun. You can stretch the leather a little when you wet form it (if you stitch a little too close again). Consider stitching around the belt loop holes.

I second what StateLineGunsmith says about copyright infringement. To add to that -- you can't take a TLF pattern and post it on leatherworker.net (even for free) without express written consent from the copyright holder, TLF. The reason is because you would be re-publishing copyrighted material under your copyright...which is illegal. Also, I think it is good to acknowledge who you got the pattern from. It's not required legally, but it's good etiquette.

Sold. Thanks.

Email sent last night. Sale pending funds.

I like the tippmann boss and have too many of them. I am clearing out my leather cabinet and the extra Boss has to go. It has served me well. It is a serial number 22xx which means it is cast iron. I have down on my log that it's coming due for the routine maintenance and I have written down to replace the Shaft Pressor Foot (AR-22) and springs (hs-39). These are cheap maintenance (~$25 from Tippmann) and thus I have reduced my asking price by $50 (now asking $900) to cover the maintenance costs. I have already lubed it. It is in usable condition in its current state. I am including a standard pressor foot, bobbin, bobbin winder thingy and the manual. Price is 900 and I will ship at the buyers expense. PM me with any questions or if you are interested. Obviously, I have the cover to the back of the Boss. I took it off to show how the components are in good condition and were lubed.

I'm no sewing machine expert, but I have seen that on my machine when I have the tension set too high. The carhartt duck should require less tension than leather