cord1974

Here's an Ernie Hill for sale. If you look at all the pictures you can get an idea of how they were constructed. https://vintagegunleathertoday.com/products/ernie-hill-speed-plain-black-leather-competition-holster-for-s-w-745 I'm trying to think of the other big names of the late 80s era but my memory isn't as good as it used to be. If you really want to go old school (late 70s era IPSC) look at the Milt Sparks 1AT or Hackathon Special. Or a Davis Omega. https://shop.joesalter.com/Vintage-Milt-Spark-s-Hackathorn-Special-45-1911-Competition-Holster https://www.1911forum.com/threads/gunsite-omega-and-or-liberty-holsters.1030638/ Sam Andrews has discontinued his IPSC Saddle style holster. But it's a good design for competition. http://www.andrewsleather.com/ipsc.htm I haven't made any of the above designs but I have thought about it. Ernie is still around. He's on Facebook and has answered a few of my questions over the years. Hope any of this helps.

Do yean something similar to the old leather IPSC rigs like Ernie Hill used to make?

I use to "wash" after antiquing. I also use it as a topcoat for items that will need conditioning in the future.

When I'm making a new strop or reloading an existing strip I grind up green compound as fine as I can get it. Then I add a bit of of oil to make it slurry. I then run that into the leather. I have no evidence that it works better than just rubbing the compound directly on the leather but it's how I've done it for over 20 years and it works for me

This was made with 7/8 oz. Most of my molded holsters are.

Fiebings Pure Neatsfoot

Sorry so late in responding.. I only use lacquer as a resist. If antiquing a projects my steps are: Tool Oil Dye (if color other than oil tan) Resist (lacquer) Antique Finish My main finishes are Tan Kote, Bag Kote or Resolene depending on the article. As for the lacquer itself I think it's Minwax or whatever the brand Lowe's sells. I've used both liquid applied with a dauber and the spray can version. I've noticed no difference in the result. But again, it's only used as a resist.

I use either denatured alcohol or 91% isopropyl alcohol. I haven't ever noticed a difference between the two.

I use it all the time as a resist. It's a lot more easier to get than Clear Lac or Wyosheen and accomplishes the same job. However I haven't ever used it as a final finish.

I've had two small jars (one mahogany and one dark brown) turn gray in the jar. You could tell it had turned when you opened it. It had a similar tint to the color in your photo.

If you follow Hidepounders instructions you will have an amazing edge when you're done. The real game changer for my edges was going with saddle soap and a canvas rag. So much better edges than the wooden slicker id been using could provide.

Back in my Army days I would redye my boots with USMC black then buff the mess out of them. Then go right to polishing with Kiwi Black. They always shined well. The most important part will buffing out the excess pigment. For a high shine I would use Resolene.

I'm in a similar situation. My left ankle is fused due to nerve damage. I have my cobbler put zippers in all my left boots. Brass teeth YKK is what he uses. Not sure of the actual name of the product line.

Yep.. Should have picked up a lot of Barry's tools

I got a good one. Not going to lie.

When I went to Sheridan in 2022, we stopped by. My wife and son stayed in the car. Spent about 20.minutes trying stamps and talking to Barry. I come back to the car with a maul, a basket weave and two bevelers. Wife says, "that's all you got? I mean you're AT Barry King's!"

Steep checkered beveler: B936 Medium checkered bevelers: B701, B702 Pear shader: P206, P208 Flower center: J816 Backgrounder: A114 I have the others but these are the ones I've used so much I remember the actual numbers.

I'm seeing less and less Fiebings on Tandy shelves every time I make the trip to the nearest store. They seem to phasing it out Fiebings products favor of the Tandy Eco equivalent.

Edge Kote is just that, a costing. It will sit on top of the edge. My experience with it is that it will eventually flake off. Dye penetrates the leather and if properly finished, vis pretty permanent. Can't help with question about lining as I've never used felt. Chamois would be similar to suede, I suspect. I think the contact cement would be fine for it.

Tandy's imported veg tan will darken with NFO. I use it on almost every project in lieu of dye if I'm trying to achieve a lighter brown color. I use multiple light coats until the desired color is achieved.

I think it was Aaron from Makers who said Peter Main uses rubbing alcohol as a dye reducer. I've used it in the past as well denatured alcohol. I can't tell any difference.

I've always said "bonded" leather is nothing more than a leather version of presswood. It doesn't even rise to the level of OSB.

About 25 years ago, back when I was shooting competition heavily, I made a steel lined belt. 2 ply 8/9 oz 1 3/4" Ranger style belt with a thin strip of steel centered. The billets were sewn on the outer strip to avoid the need to punch through the steel. But we did do a double stitch line on the belt. It worked well for several years of daily wear and weekly matches. Eventually I got tired of the stiffness and took the steel band out. I unstitched on edge, pulled the steel with pliers and sewed the edge back up by hand. The belt is still in my closet. Unfortunately I'm not as thin as I was back then.

With black you really have to buff it well. Start with a soft cloth or wool. Buff it. Buff it again. The buff it some more. When you think you're done, take a soft paper towel and buff it. If any dye pigment comes off, start over. After buffing seal with your sealant of choice.

I've been noticing Tandy is carrying less and less of a selection in Pro Dye in quart bottles. I've been to two larger stores (Jacksonville FL and Tampa FL in the last several weeks) and only found a few shades of brown available. I would guess they're phasing out a lot of the Fiebings dyes in favor of their Eco dyes.