toxo

What would be a bonus is if the Juki LS1341 takes the same presser feet as my Durkopp 239. (where are you Folker) because I have all the feet ever made for that. I saw a pic and they look similar.

I think I'm resigned to an original. My lifelong motto is "If I didn't have bad luck I'd have no luck at all" I daren't risk it.

Thanks kgg. How do you tell the difference between a clone and a re-badged original? I would love to find what I want from Tysew because they're just the other side of London and so driveable. Not hearing good things about Tysew from another dealer but I suppose that's a given but it's such a minefield out there that I'll be scared of anything but a genuine machine. Then there's the question of is it a Japanese machine or a Chinese one?

Thanks for that. I'll certainly take a look. Whatever it turns out to be it won't be new. Currently I have the Durkopp 239 flat bed and the Adler 69. There's an Ebay dealer over here that sells a lot of machines he's listing a Juki LS 1341 for what looks like a reasonable price. I could part ex the Durkopp or the Adler or both so that will ease the pain. Is there a list of clones that are of reasonable quality? I do like the backstitch lever on the Jukis. It's a lift up on my two Durkopps. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175861103293?hash=item28f2237abd:g:hgMAAOSwJIZiQyzI&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4JPjvpe2zuTzTUufu1DR%2BpTnrkEPbsPVwB3GH4PL3bCOR%2F3%2FQKsXP3a%2FMTZagHnJl0bUkX2ldn6aKVQoUf6DdgPsY%2FPwmF7w%2Bl5DNdf1H7S4mamIVBC0TsYtpDeo1aXOTM%2BrZ1UxqA6nA7iSzN8HWWUkyQLwS2RrYY75zhwKmmCQuIDwLvdjyPk0MXr1EUG6eEOJdKXCMZv1bu1WVI7%2FLzJph1NbQ0%2FfvPQwSvAQ38XHhnmIncCIGxigsr4xRVvQafVFKc0LMhA%2Fu9NHSOHfZzeZ7fgZ6APPIuvxDMzHyZ%2F1|tkp%3ABk9SR8KQlvSEYw

An acquaintance bumped into me in the pub and whispered in my ear, "I was out on the rob last night and I stole two pictures, one worth £1.7 million and one worth £1.9 million" then he said "I've got them in the boot (trunk), come and have a look". He opened the boot and I said "You fool, you robbed an estate agent (realtor).

Once you apprecfiate that the bell doesn't move and the rollers only job is to push the material through to the bell then you realise that any adjustment must be done with the stuff on top. If you get the presser foot absolutely parallel with the bell you can skive all the way across the piece. If you want to angle the skive along the edge you simply adjust the presser foot so the back is the thickness you want and the front of the presser foot is the thickness of the leather. Sometimes you have to trial and error. One roller type may work better than another. Various rollers include ribbed steel, rubber and a coarse stone type. People on here know how much I love Cechaflo, not least because all the waffle on most YT vids drive me crazy and you'll never hear a word from Cechaflo. He's also an absolute genius around leather machines. Have a look at this page. I guarantee you'll be wiser at the end of it. https://www.youtube.com/@Cechaflo/search?query=skiving

I may have asked this before but I'm getting old. I want to upgrade my Adler 69 and I keep looking at the LS 1341. I make bags and smaller. First question, is there something else I should be looking at? (UK) And if not, how comfortable is the Juki with upholstery type projects?

There are lots of YT videos covering every aspect.

You don't show the damage but they're hole punches. The important bit is the sharp end. I won't take much to make sure they are round and sharp. I would do the sharp bit with a file else you'll make the holes bigger, still usable but a bigger size. That crew punch is for strap buckles. Very useful and I imagine that one was quite expensive.

Sometimes fun is best. I made this for my daughter some time ago and she still uses it every day for work

The logical/practical side of me says the shape takes up valuable holding space but boy! That was worth it. Awesome job. I wonder if the wife will get fed up with being stopped in the street. Well done.

Great job. I'm a big fan of practical projects. Someone's gonna love that.

There are times when the locking stitches can come through between the layers. Not tested but maybe there's an answer using what I'll call the fishing rod whipping end technique where a separate length of thread is doubled over and previously laid between the layers so that the main thread can be pulled through to be finished elsewhere. Don't know if I've explained this sufficiently. No doubt someone can do a better job.

A taperfit pulley is what you need. I put a 270mm pulley on my Adler 69 for a fraction of the cost of a "speed reducer" and along with a servo motor does a stitch at a time. Search on here for my posts. Come back if you can't find it.

Just seen this on F/B marketplace. Gotta be a good deal for someone. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/273358162060675/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A315c7bac-dd1b-4eb4-b5bf-b7ba4e4fd251

Go on YouTube and subscribe to a guy Called Cechaflo. An absolute maestro with a sewing machine and a piece of upholstery. English is not his first language and he never says a word but somehow makes everything so clear. You'll thank me later.

Don't think anyone mentioned the one that makes my blood run cold just thinking about it, someone stupid enough to get a necktie caught in a buffer or even worse, a grinder.

The key on a tin of corned beef. You just push it in the slot. Maybe wiggle it depends on the size of your coins.

Not the answer to your question Klara and maybe not much use to you but this will open any shopping trolley over here. Haven't had to worry bout a pound coin for a couple years now.

I often use a solid bar poking sideways out of a decent vice.

Made I larf that did.

I spend half my life looking for stuff. I normally put it down to the poltergeist but I've recently worked out that if what I'm looking for is even partially covered by something else it becomes invisible to me. Needless to say I'll find it when looking for something else.

In the past I used some see through window stuff from a gazebo.

This first picture has the two parts together and sewn through like yours' This gives a dished effect. This pic shows the front panel over the top of the gusset and sewn through giving a more rounded look. Same pattern, same holes just a different look.

Nice job Frodo. If I had a nitpick I think the look would be better and more rounded if the front panel went over the gusset. same holes just a different look.