thefanninator

Nice work.

Goatskin would work just fine. Thickness should be about .6 - 1.0 mm.

On your example with casting the stitch some of your stitches are switching places. Make sure the thread that comes out the front stays on the bottom.

Looks like you're interested in carving & stamping. Get the best tools you can buy with the money you've decided to spend. If you realize later that leatherwork isn't for you, you can sell the good tools. Barry King has a great set of stamps for $400. Yes, it's quite a bit of money to invest in for a beginner but it'll be worth it if you keep at it and if you don't you'll be able to sell it. http://www.barrykingtools.com/sizelist.htm Don't wanna spend that much? Check out: http://proleathercarvers.com You might consider a stitching chisel instead of a pricking iron or overstitch wheel. You won't need an awl with the chisel, just punch it all the way through. Swap the razor knife for a rotary blade. Olfa is a good one. I found mine on sale at Joann. You'll need a finish over your dyes. Might try Fiebing's Tan-Kote.

Fiebings Bagkote maybe fine, but I've never used it. I've always used Tankote and a lacquer finish.

A simple matching phone case.

Thanks!

Nice start. Following...

Yes. Not sure if it's rebranded Fenice or not but I mixed black Fenice with it to darken it up. I'm liking the results so far.

Thanks. Finishing up the rolled handles today.

There are 2 places I know of here in the States. http://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/all http://www.fineleatherworking.com

I'm using a Fileteuse made by Regad. It's the French electric creaser.

Nice. Love that color combination.

Brass loop to hold rolled handles.

Wickett & Craig has English Bridle. They can split it to what ever oz. you want. Look at Horween too.

Ah ok...well, I'm glad it's part of the overall design and not due to poor cutting skills. Thanks for the background info. Cheers.

Yes, templates would help. It's not really the shape that matters, the consistency does. The strap on the front isn't symmetrical.

Just practicing my watch straps but a 3/4" roller belt buckle was all I had. Waiting on some blue edge paint to get here to finish the edges. 3/4" wide x 9" long. Blue Lagoon leather from Maverick, that's all I know about it. Horween Orion lining, 9 SPI, 632 Lin Cable.

Nice work. A punch (round or English point) will fix those ends.

Booth & Co. still have some inventory. http://www.boothandco.com/handtools.php

I stitch the way Valerie Micheal teaches in her book. Left needle in first, pull the thread forward and down & the 2nd (right) needle goes behind (far side) of the 1st needle.

Thanks. I still have those days where I'm not getting the slant I want. Sometimes I think it's the quality of the leather. Could be the depth of the pricking iron punch, the awl angle, depth of the awl... so many factors. If you mean "cast the stitch" over the needle... I use a knot all the time. I'm right handed. Left hand goes up and back - right hand goes down and towards me. That's a fair statement about Blanchards. If you need some more affordable high quality pricking irons google out Amy Roke Atelier. From what I've heard they're super high quality made in China.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=64887&hl= Check this thread. I posted a pic of 432 vs 632 @ 9 SPI. Post #13.

Try smaller thread. What's your SPI? At 9 SPI I found that Lin Cable 632 (.51mm) gets a better slant than 432 (.63mm). 432 is good for 7 SPI.

I'm following you on Instagram so I saw it already. Nice work! Waiting for the next one.