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Don: thanks for the heads up on their feature and the on sales tip, appreciated. Always helps with the information around here. Most importantly a great deal with a sale price. Good day Floyd

I have found some little red handle scissors. Like most other people feel, their chosen choice well “ they just fit”. Im keeping one of these at each station, I'm not interested in chasing them down. They cost under 20.00 and they are handy. These have enough tension/ pin pressed, not to flop around. In this thread cutting task at the machine and it works. These even work on the other hand also, or back on my right hand. For small scissors they have bigger handles. To be a bit abstract I guess, two middle fingers fit. With fore finger and little finger helping to guide at fore and aft outside and plenty room for thumb in opposite handle. These are the Clauss # NK75848 Good day Floyd ps: while on the cutting edge topic, Utility ( lite HD) scissors I find handy for “smaller scissors” are also wearing a Clauss name; # FSS7 SP

What kind of process are you doing with the granite and the 12 ton press. Good day Floyd

Thanks! This is just the information a lot of us appreciate. Many times these tips we miss because of other silly choices through our day. I could easily hear more in this topic. Say slightly toward separate stamping and a dye areas, stations or whatever ya call it. Good day Floyd

It’s good to hear your ready for some threads. With using the polyester and nylon thread I find no desire to worry about the cost of a bobbin full of thread. It’s really not worth looking elsewhere. Rather in my opinion smartly use the names locally mentioned here on the site frequently. Theres a satisfaction I get knowing the company selling these threads for my projects and products is just my kind of secure. The only tips I can pass on at this stage is get the 1lb spools in your whites and blacks. If you decide on a consistant other color, this is also where big spools will be a no brainer. Good luck and enjoy fun Good day Floyd

Even the truck freight in the US is much more. My earlier this year hdpe had a 176lb weight, required a double pallet length. East coast to Missouri ran 200.$ If its possible, and i would try if it were me, to use a smaller stationary planer. I have one for wood, it doesnt have tiny spiked roller that somtimes help feed. Believe it or not slick varnish old flooring stuff kicks it az. Good day Floyd ps: i meant to ask what some lastic hardness specs are on these plates/cut boards.

Excellent point, Its for sure I don't need to fight the curling any more than when shipped. What diameter and length seemed to work good in your opinion. Honestly the tubes really work great. They have helped my plywood boxed areas big time, just flat upgraded the organization. Eliminating smashed rolls etc.. Some of the larger as well as thicker leather I would like to store flat, for now that area is pretty much ready. A lot of thought is in cutting up this last 8” 12’ foot tube from a last week purchase. I finally got around to making some 6 foot lengths, these for other materials in their normal 60” lengths, both 6” and 8” diameter. So nothing set in stone in shorter tube lengths. These that are needed for trimmed down leather hides yet. I would rather try to keep in mind a leather type so, some separation maybe a good tip. In that I could use another area of the table or do some tubd tags I suppose. Thanks again for the tip Good day Floyd

If the shipping were 400. total for the 60. Its likely higher though I figure with both sides surfaced by weaver the cost is 50 per board/poly. I’d have to put them on the pallet and call the freight truck. This one go around for the time being is half price. Good luck Floyd

Thanks this is a great deal of information, super helpful. Floyd

Maybe Im missing something here in your first post. And or dont really understand some Down under business traditions. With that I can say here an Equine horse tac shop could be and is normally not intown or a city street location. Additionaly its certainly fine in a barn or structure setup to perform this work. ( in my world ) So maybe I might be missing a key point in typical business levels, rather than structures. In some of this i mean, few are going to get a big discount no-matter what, until a regular sales pattern is established. Here in the States a better than retail price is established only with the business to business with a license, this maybe and I think the same as yours in that a government I.D. Number is issued to you or the business. Its still a sure possibility here that the same retail price is going to be charged. This I may be partial to with my own business as Im a builder, fabricator and artist not actually a big parts/items transfer biz, yet to be realized (? Before i retire again) Have a good day and Cheers! Floyd

In my opinion you have found the best option. If a local outfit could do the local pick up, even then the time needed with ultra pro equipment would be an issue. If I was local and made a typical offer, a suggestion would be for future one side only usage. This I think in this situation would be more accurate for the surfacer/operator. This incase they would be dished, one side is fine but keeping it flat during surfacing may be a real pain. All this would be “ if “ a blade/planer type machine were possible. Good day there Floyd

Hey, a big thanks to ya! I can always get some great ideas here. One just has to open a door or re-stir the pot some. But its worth it. For now I have some flat storage under table top. In any of the materials we can work with there are short pieces and or other types, they could be rolled. So I think here also some tubes are going to be a big help. So doing some smaller lengths with tubes first. Jus because it’s the available area I have, as most of us have so considering some lengths. I have several length options, yet know for some smaller pieces a tub is no doubt the ticket. Here are a few measures for discussion lengths. So areas under this 8’ square table. It has some cutout for machine areas so only gives these following options. Anyway theres 32” depth, for consideration (32d x 36L & 23h). In the other area theres a 42” depth and the mentioned 8’ if I use this other direction, this area also has 23” height. Good day Floyd

I could sure use your help with this storage question. I am looking to use some of the form tubes as future leather hide storage. These are the cardboard types used in concrete applications. I have seen it mentioned breifly in historical searches. Although to my knowledge I haven't found some best lengths. So in my “general” future hide storage needs what can be some best lengths for these tubes Im to cut these. The typical I purchase is 12’ ft. These Im interested in also are 8” and 6” diameters. Is it possible some of you can give me any tips on this, I really appreciate it. Thank you Floyd

I honestly and respectfully agree in your assesment : If I understand the whole “clone thing”. It seems to me also in the first visuals, many machines are so similar in that their parts could interchange. Some even could make one better in a way possibly. I can easily say these newer machines that have been called clones, Some have persons that have had and did a lot of inspecting with regards to performances. In particular these big dog 441 clones, and I am a proud owner of one clone." Let me give an example I very early on found regards to Juki and “ not Juki presser feet “. If any have a few on hand, for comparison. Just check the mounting height of these parts, especially if a no adjustment was wanted, or allowed! Again this was early in my trying to learn anything and all I could absorb with a few new found machine interest. The factory presser feet could be interchanged on any of the same machines I had that had factory adjustment settings. Well they were the same mounted height, I will spare ya the accuracy of the bottom to surfaces contact. The aftermarket presser feet of all kinds like standard, zippers, cording all sizes ( omg ) some/ strike that. None of the aftermarket presser feet had a similar mounted height. Some will find this not important, yet why is there a standard. Above all why is one brands standard dimension even copied let alone mentioned. ( i.e. singer 111 presser feet ) I have found many parts can work together fine and I do regularly make these purchases like bobbins yet there are subtle differences. Like how they may wobble or just a loose fit, yet they work somewhat. Finally we all have our tolerances to deal with regards to happiness and budgets at any present time in our life. We just as myself keep finding these attributes no matter how old we are that can help us build a better base. Good day Floyd

It may be possible depending on the width and or length of your material. What is the material thickness we are working with here. I would think first is if the material will get hot to quick. I think some softer plastics might. From my small purchases its the freight of these materials as it gets heavy very quick. Then if it requires truck shipping well, as you already mentioned its expensive to move any freight. Floyd

Hey its before coffee time here, So what is that wish width to be? For a presser foot with the needle hole. Here the width runs a consistant .24?” using a cheap vernier digital caliper. Good day Floyd

I don’t know the actual difference. It is possible a different hook and with that a bobbin cap or case that is removable. If doing any searches on the site here there may be some references to the 341. Either way they are nice machines. good day Floyd

Its sure possible, if I had a wax pot. I may just pop over the other post and have Uwe print me a taller one. Would not want him to have to much fun with the new toys. have a good day Floyd

I believe the standard factory presser feet ( both ) are or have smooth surfaces that contact the fabric or materials. These can be obtained from one of the Juki dealers here that contribute on the site. They may have options that can also be of interest. Im not sure if a smooth feed dog can be had, though its been mentioned on the site a few years ago. Good day Floyd

I cannot recall a top view of the wax pot, but will just tos this out for an idea. Can anyone put a peice of thick wool or foam in the pot, say above the thread and liquid. I know its not a wiper of that sort just a splash suppresser. Good day Floyd

As that needle is coming up, try to time it with that take up lever on the side as it gets close to TDC. Then ease off the go pedal, hit the bell to let them know your hittin the reverse. Once the patterns get working you may find the needle can cut threads so sometimes it can really be a pain. Good day Floyd

I have to ask, does the needle hit the holes correctly. In this situation I recomend to let the needle scarf be seen coming up and out of the leather piece totally. Stop then move lever to reverse stitch. Its just me arm chairing this so be patient, if thats not possible we can joke & laugh a bit first. Good day Floyd

Ya might give this a try. Letting the needle come up almost out or at least to see the scarf or knowing the scarf is well above the feed dog top. For me this requires real slow stitching at start and the end. These methods seem to work better for myself. I also think even if a blanket foot is used this shuttle design needs more time or the needle being raised. I mention blanket foot as sometimes the single foot pressure can be adequate but may slip/turn with smaller pieces. This I found needed more of my attention, sometimes another added turn down on the top foot pressure so not to miss the full length of the stitch. This slipping may not be as pronounced with a flat bottom foot that doesnt press down directly on the stitch. In anycase I cannot use the reverse on the shuttle hook yet as on my non shuttle flatbeds. No doubt these can be thrown in reverse any time with perfect results. So possibly a bit different learning curve I experience. Good day Floyd

I totaly agree with Northmount, if you have plenty of the a/c plywood and handy with some routing go for it. No doubt nix the old top in any case, sorry but i think you would be better in the long run. If im thinking correct the hinges are replaceable on many machine heads. These i believe can be upgraded in newer styles if wanted. I’m sure several can and would gladly help with tips here on the outline, or rather the recessed routing it requires. Good day Floyd

I think it may be a product for certain applications that can help a bit more. I didnt download their pdf on the twist type but I may be interested down the road. For my applications 24 snap from scovil is the go to. I need the portability on boats so been using the press n snap for a little while. In re placements ( as they slide off boat in the water ) oh did I say that hurts my 1 feeling. Anyway it seems last i needed another the additional parts in the kit is more and cheaper from Rochford. http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Upholstery_Tools/Snap_Fastener_Tools/Pres-N-Snap_(Aluminum)_for_Installing_Fasteners/index.html Thanks for the tip on the bench press. I am going to look into the twist type for other rivet types if thats an option with their dies or anvils n what have ya’s. I suspect we all would agree they all could be bested with our own “free” air press! good day there Floyd